Mounting antennas on a ‘16 all aluminum cab
05-11-2019, 01:34 AM
#1
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Mounting antennas on a ‘16 all aluminum cab
I am a ham operator and I am reluctant to drill holes in my truck to mount a v/uhf antenna somewhere on my truck. I tried a mag mount on top of the truck with a magnet under it inside the headliner but it was not strong enough. Any ideas from anyone that does not involve drilling holes with the exception of hidden screws. I have a topper with racks but not sure I want to mount it on the cross bar as this would be the only metal for the antenna to work off of. My topper is fiberglass. The front fender is rolled in such a way there is not enough space to securely fasten a fender mount as you see on many older commercial trucks. Anyone here had success for two way radio antenna mounting ? TIA, Rick.
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ELFORD (12-03-2023)
05-11-2019, 12:49 PM
#3
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As long as the metal of the antenna's shield wire is electrically grounded to the cab roof, the roof will still work as a ground plane for the antenna. They don't have to be in physical contact, just like the antennas mounted to the tops of towers still reflecting off the ground because there's a ground wire connecting them electrically. Think about your magnet (which you know would work when the truck is parked) - it's not actually physically or electrically connected to the roof metal because of the plastic & paint separating them. But the wire's shield IS electrically connected to the truck ground including the body. So moving it a few inches up to the rack won't prevent it from working, either.
05-18-2019, 01:53 AM
#4
I have had the above BD 3rd brake light NMO mount, and now I have their double mount. I have my cell booster on one side, and my VHF antenna on the other. I have never thought to probe and see if there is a good ground connection, but I can do that for you Monday. DM me if this would be helpful.
A quick review of the BD mount: The NMO base is surely in good contact with the bare aluminum in the mount, and the mount is bolted through 4 holes that you drill in the cab behind the 3rd light that bolts into provided aluminum backplates. This sandwiches the factory cab aluminum between the mount and the backplate. All of this is behind the seal of the factory light, so don't let that alarm you. Neither of the two trucks I have done this to have ever leaked. The mount comes with plenty of cables. I had to shorten mine. After 2, I'd for sure buy a 3rd.
That said, there is another option if you like your mag-mount. One of my buddies epoxied an iron disc to the roof (on the inside of the truck) and it works like a charm for him. Of course, it would require that you drop the headliner. It's a pain, but doable. Better yet, get a stereo shop to do it if you don't want to.
A quick review of the BD mount: The NMO base is surely in good contact with the bare aluminum in the mount, and the mount is bolted through 4 holes that you drill in the cab behind the 3rd light that bolts into provided aluminum backplates. This sandwiches the factory cab aluminum between the mount and the backplate. All of this is behind the seal of the factory light, so don't let that alarm you. Neither of the two trucks I have done this to have ever leaked. The mount comes with plenty of cables. I had to shorten mine. After 2, I'd for sure buy a 3rd.
That said, there is another option if you like your mag-mount. One of my buddies epoxied an iron disc to the roof (on the inside of the truck) and it works like a charm for him. Of course, it would require that you drop the headliner. It's a pain, but doable. Better yet, get a stereo shop to do it if you don't want to.