David Jones

I'd just stick with the Motorcraft Semi/Syn. It's great oil and reasonably priced, at least down here in the states

Napalm

I would say unless the OAT (outside air temp) stayed below -5 degree F for a extended period of time like a month. I would stick with the 5w30 and I would just let it warm up maybe an extra minute. For me that means letting it warm up on first start for a minute and a half. More on that in a bit.

Below -10F - I'd maybe think about the 0w30. but I would also get that out of there when the temps stay above 40 to 50 F.

As far as helping the mpg - it won't affect a thing. there is no viscosity difference that would equate to extra pump drag with 0w30 vs 5w30.

icecoldak

0W-30 can be ran all year round regardless--not gonna hurt a thing, if anything aid in start up and flowing even faster every morning---temp is nothing...

techietruckguy

iTrader: (1)

If you are really worried get some LAT Race Oil.

LAT 20435 (SAE 5W-30) Synthetic Racing Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 12)

Ricktwuhk

Ignore the dealer. Run what the manual says you can run, including the proper weight. Keep in mind that if you choose to run a different weight than is specified in the manual, and you have an in-warranty problem, you may have problems with any warranty claim.

tvsjr

2008 Mariner, 3.0L - 150K at sale time, still owned by a friend, still running strong, no (measurable) oil consumption
2009 F150, 5.4L - 188K at sale time, still owned by a friend, still running strong, no oil consumption
2010 F150, 5.4L - 225K at trade time, no oil consumption
2011 Expedition, 5.4L - 150K on it now, no oil consumption
2014 F150, 5.0L - 135K on it now, no oil consumption

All went to Mobil 1 of the recommended weight for each motor at the first oil change, which occurred at 1K. Break-in consisted of reasonable, varied driving through 1K, oil change, then drive the **** out of them.

Oh, and change dealers. "Too slippery" says he has *no farking clue*.

gopherman

Too slippery...how much do service advisors make at Ford, because it honestly sounds like a cake walk for a job. You don't have to know anything about cars, you take phone calls, get to be rude to customers, and still collect a paycheck. I'll add this line to the list of ridiculous shat I've heard come from these clowns. Apparently, you no longer need to know anything about a car anymore to work in a service department...the primary qualification is whether or not you can BS.

As for synthetic vs. synthetic blend (is there a dealer or service department out there still selling conventional?)...moving to synthetic is a good bet. There are differences between group III, IV, and V synthetics...group III is a highly refined conventional oil, group IV and V are polyalphaolefin, and ester/PAG based respectively. If you care about having a true synthetic look for group IV synthetics...but group III is excellent as well. I've got a car with over 300K on it now that's only ever had full synthetic, was changed right away when I bought it. Other than an issue with variable cam timing equipment, it's still running as smooth as butter...except for when the phasers/chain are acting up. That being said, the VCT system is one of the main reasons you want to use 5W-20 if that's what your specifications call for. If you care about your warranty, then just stick to what's recommended. No oil change is going to stop the inevitable engine breakdown though....so then it becomes a question of how much money do you feel like wasting to prevent the unpreventable.

txbbqF150

I switched to full synthetic at 1k miles. No problems with it yet. I've always switched to full synthetic on all cars on the first oil change.

Professor Wizard

Odd that Ford did that... My 05 Mustang came with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic installed, and they recommended/required continuing to use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

When your car/truck gets to 100,000+ miles, switch to the High Mileage Blend Full Synthetic.

I will be using Full Synth on my very next oil change.

D K

While this is true, it's mostly done for emissions.

I break all my engines in the same way and have done it for years. It works great.
I use a non detergent, single weight oil if available and try to seat the rings by easing up to around 75% rpm and varying the throttle as much as possible for the first 1000 or so miles. Upshift, downshift, run the throttle up and down, loading up the engine, but not redlining or going 100% throttle.
After that I use synthetic, but stay away from the 0W junk. 20W50 if the engine allows for it or 10W40 depending on the type of engine and climate.

It works great!

It's not the seals that you are worring about, it's getting pressure behind the rings and seating them against the cylinder walls properly.

This is what has worked for me, ymmv!