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I've heard the stories, and seen the pictures, but can anyone tell me what is done wrong during level or lift installation that causes IWE issues? I'm about to put coilovers on my 2018 and want to do it right. Are people just abusing components during the work?
I put a leveling kit and then coilovers on my 2013 with no issue. I unplugged the battery (for the electronic steering) which I understand was common practice. Didn't unbolt the axle nut or put vacuum on the lines. No issues. Now it seems like all the install instructions for 2015+ say to unbolt the axle nut, and only the Roush/Fox instructions say to put vacuum on the IWE. Is this necessary? Coincidentally, none of the 2015+ instructions say anything about battery disconnect or to unplug steering box.
Integrated Wheel End. It is the component which engages the CV shaft to the wheel hub (1 for each side). They operate on vacuum.... vacuum applied = disengaged (2wd), vacuum released = engaged (4wd)
So I don't understand why they would need a vacuum on them if you aren't doing anything with the hub? I watched a video on Bilstein 5100 install and they just say to remove the axle nut and nothing else. What exactly causes the problems?
Just don't mess with the hub or axle nut. Owners have problems when they pull the axle from the hub. I've made three changes to the front suspension that required the struts to come out. I didn't pull a vacuum, I didn't cap anything, and I've never experienced any grinding or noise from the IWEs. As mentioned above, if you need more droop to get the struts in or out, loosen or remove the LCA bolts. Take care that you don't stress your axles or brake lines when articulating the suspension downward during strut removal.
When doing level or struts on these trucks, removing the axle nut allows for more droop which allows more space to pull the strut out. When you remove the axle nut the axle sometimes comes out of the splines which then would require you to line them back up.
The proper way to re install the axle into the IWE and then into the hub is to unbolt the IWE from the hub, add vacuum, install IWE to axle, tighten axle nut, then release vacuum .
I got lucky a few times removing the axle nut and when ready to re install just sliding the axle back in.
This last time I wasn't so lucky and destoryed both sides. The ring gear that engages the axle and hub together is metal, the housing it sits on is cheap plastic and can/WILL break if it isn't aligned perfectly .
My advice, buy a pump ($30) and install them right if you plan to pull the axle nut.
The struts CAN come out without removing the axle nut but it's a ton easier to do so IMO.
12-11-2018, 08:42 AM
what causes IWE issues during level/lift install?
