Upgrading my sub, need a little wiring help
 

Alright guys so I've searched and searched and searched on this topic for a while, I have the Sony stereo, and I've picked up a shallow 10" alpine type R, box small enough to put it behind the seat in the factory location, and line out converter, I have an amp, wiring kit and capacitor from a previous vehicle already...

What I need help with is a constant 12v power for the line out converter, as well as an accessory 12v signal for it and the amp.

I remember reading a thread where someone did this off of their power inverter, at least for the signal they did, but I can't find the thread now, I'd prefer to do this as close to the amp and sub as possible instead of going to the fuse box, but if I absolutely have to go to the fuse box then I will.

Can't wait to hear how this is going to sound.

Thanks in advance.

You don't need a constant 12V source for the line out converter. You need a switched source that's hot when the ACC/run circuits are activated. Grab your owner's manual and look up the kick panel fuse diagram. Pick a circuit that's hot when you need it, hook up an add-a-circuit ($5-$10 at autozone), and run your power wire from the kick panel to the terminals on your converter/amp remote turn on terminal.

Thanks for the input, the line our converter I got has both switched and constant for whatever reason, I'll take a look at it again when I'm done work, if I don't need a constant for it then I won't hook one up but when I was purchasing it they pulled it out of the package and showed me the terminals on it, and there was definitely both on there.

Any ideas on pulling the switched power from the inverter? I still can't find that post and I'm looking.

PACaudio.com
Will allow you to keep Sony amp and instal your amp . Having this put into my 2015 Platinum Screw with Sony stereo
AP4-FD21 , also check you tube for additional info on this product

You don't want that pulling power when the stereo is off, especially if the engine is off. It should only be on when the stereo is on.

See and that was my thoughts exactly... I'm not sure what the constant power would be for on this line out converter, I'll post a picture of it later.

If I don't need constant power for it then that makes things a bit easier for hooking all this up.

It looks like there's a couple ways to hook it up, but as you said no constant, which definitely makes the guy at the store sound like he knows what he's doing lol.

Maybe someone can chime in about the switches power from the inverter before I have to run a wire from the fuse box.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...6bb116dc91.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...e590e8ff06.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...f35e537bff.jpg

care to share some details ?

It's an alpine swr-t10, 600 watts RMS, 1800 peak, 4ohm shallow sub, the box I haven't seen yet but they told me it will fit behind my seats where the factory one is with some trimming, I had found a thread where someone else did this by trimming the carpet etc back there, my amp is an 850rms mono block, 4 gauge wiring kit and I think something like a 5 or 10 farad capacitor.

The box is supposed to be in tomorrow, I'll post some pics of the sub and box when I'm installing it.

Bump for the switched power from the inverter!

It may be that way in the diagrams because factory remote turn on signals are typically not from circuits meant to power a device with a real current draw. As we discussed creating your own circuit capable of safely handling the load, that's no longer an issue. Looks like the device has a built in relay and creates its own switched power with the remote lead. You'll probably be fine using a new switched circuit as described in the previous post for both the turn on and "battery" inputs.