Universal Garage Door Opener - install into Sun visor
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Universal Garage Door Opener - install into Sun visor
I have seen numerous posts about people installing sun visors in the XLTs with the universal garage door opener, but I haven't seen any posts of people installing the garage door opener into their existing visor.
If you are semi-skillful, this is an easy installation and you can pick up the transmitters on ebay for about $25 (way cheaper than buying a visor with an opener, the cheapest I could find when looking to do this was $150 although they also have a lighted mirror)
Sorry if this isn't easy to follow, this is my first step-by-step I've posted...
1. After removing the visor, you need to remove the fabric on the side facing down. To do this, I used a sunglass flat screwdriver and began at the corner by the support (opposite the hinge). The fabric is just pushed in-between the 2 pieces of Styrofoam.
2. Once you have the fabric worked out on the lower side, you need to layout the size of the module so you can cut out the Styrofoam.
3. I cut my hole in the fabric for the buttons early but recommend you wait to cut the opening in the fabric until you are done and the fabric is reinstalled.
4. Next, I cut out the location for the module. I recommend to start small and then slowly enlarge until the module fits snug. Also don't go too deep, both sides are separate pieces.
5. I also had to remove the cross supports on the other piece of Styrofoam shown here so my module wouldn't sick out (it's a little thick)
6. Next it gets a little tricky. You need to find the end of the "slide/extension" housing so you can fish the wires through the visor. Check out my photos to get a general idea where they are located and then just either use an awl or something to probe to find the end. Once you find the end, you need to cut out about 1/2" x 1/2" so you can remove the cap on the end of the housing to get the wires out.
7. Next, remove the cap
8. Once removed, push the wires through the visor from the hinge, feed through the hole of the cap you just removed and then reinstall the cap.
9. Next feed the wires between the 2 pieces of Styrofoam to the location you will mount the module.
10. Wire to your module and install into your visor.
11. Although my module was really snug, I still used duct tape to help ensure it stays in place and also to provide a smoother transition
12. Next to reinstall the fabric, I just used a putty knife to push the fabric back into the slot, starting in the middle and working my way evenly back to the corners. After the fabric is installed, This is where I recommend cutting the opening for the buttons to mount. When I did mine (I did at the beginning) and when I stretched it back, I had to be careful because the hole stretches and didn't want to line up.
13. Finally, I wired mine to the Yel/Red and Blk/Yel wires in the overhead console since this is the same circuit the factory ones are attached to.
14. I also tried to remove the sticker so now I'm off to the store to get some goo gone.
Good Luck and I hope this helps someone out!!!!
If you are semi-skillful, this is an easy installation and you can pick up the transmitters on ebay for about $25 (way cheaper than buying a visor with an opener, the cheapest I could find when looking to do this was $150 although they also have a lighted mirror)
Sorry if this isn't easy to follow, this is my first step-by-step I've posted...
1. After removing the visor, you need to remove the fabric on the side facing down. To do this, I used a sunglass flat screwdriver and began at the corner by the support (opposite the hinge). The fabric is just pushed in-between the 2 pieces of Styrofoam.
2. Once you have the fabric worked out on the lower side, you need to layout the size of the module so you can cut out the Styrofoam.
3. I cut my hole in the fabric for the buttons early but recommend you wait to cut the opening in the fabric until you are done and the fabric is reinstalled.
4. Next, I cut out the location for the module. I recommend to start small and then slowly enlarge until the module fits snug. Also don't go too deep, both sides are separate pieces.
5. I also had to remove the cross supports on the other piece of Styrofoam shown here so my module wouldn't sick out (it's a little thick)
6. Next it gets a little tricky. You need to find the end of the "slide/extension" housing so you can fish the wires through the visor. Check out my photos to get a general idea where they are located and then just either use an awl or something to probe to find the end. Once you find the end, you need to cut out about 1/2" x 1/2" so you can remove the cap on the end of the housing to get the wires out.
7. Next, remove the cap
8. Once removed, push the wires through the visor from the hinge, feed through the hole of the cap you just removed and then reinstall the cap.
9. Next feed the wires between the 2 pieces of Styrofoam to the location you will mount the module.
10. Wire to your module and install into your visor.
11. Although my module was really snug, I still used duct tape to help ensure it stays in place and also to provide a smoother transition
12. Next to reinstall the fabric, I just used a putty knife to push the fabric back into the slot, starting in the middle and working my way evenly back to the corners. After the fabric is installed, This is where I recommend cutting the opening for the buttons to mount. When I did mine (I did at the beginning) and when I stretched it back, I had to be careful because the hole stretches and didn't want to line up.
13. Finally, I wired mine to the Yel/Red and Blk/Yel wires in the overhead console since this is the same circuit the factory ones are attached to.
14. I also tried to remove the sticker so now I'm off to the store to get some goo gone.
Good Luck and I hope this helps someone out!!!!
The following 5 users liked this post by j0hnny5:
carrierj (05-21-2020),
schmitty1 (02-25-2018),
Sparky42 (05-20-2020),
STeXy (02-25-2018),
Toolferone (05-21-2020)
#4
Senior Member
I did this on my 2013, following threads on here. Then I did it on my 2018 Fusion Energi,
#6
Senior Member
Good job! Based on this, I just ordered a module off Ebay and will install it with your instructions. Thanks!
#7
Senior Member
Do you have a link to the universal garage door opener you used?
Trending Topics
#8
Until my current truck, I always installed a small wired pushbutton on lower left dash, soldered wire direct to standard GDO, and hid the controller under the dash. I have done this on several family cars and it hides the GDO. Your way is nicer, my way is easier and cheaper . I always, and still do, feel if a criminal gets in my accidentally unlocked vehicle in my driveway, they might not know what a small black pushbutton did, but everyone knows what a visor pushbutton does.
#9
Senior Member
Most garage door openers have a wall switch in the garage that turns the opener off - remotes won't open the door when it's off. If you park outside, turn the opener off at night for security. If a remote is stolen or lost, reset the opener and reprogram your existing remotes. The stolen or lost remote won't work with the door anymore.
Post the pictures so we know how well this turned out.
Post the pictures so we know how well this turned out.
#10
No fart cans allowed
Until my current truck, I always installed a small wired pushbutton on lower left dash, soldered wire direct to standard GDO, and hid the controller under the dash. I have done this on several family cars and it hides the GDO. Your way is nicer, my way is easier and cheaper . I always, and still do, feel if a criminal gets in my accidentally unlocked vehicle in my driveway, they might not know what a small black pushbutton did, but everyone knows what a visor pushbutton does.