David Jones

Get a Pano roof if you want one. You'll love it.

Neffster

I got a new 502A, TTT financed, out the door, for under $50k. Why are you looking at used?

FDHog

Did you ever remove the accordion panels and lube the tracks behind them? I did that on day one and have no issues so far. There was no lube on them at all. You can reuse the accordions if you remove them carefully.

yokev

Unfortunately no. Although that would be friggen nice to if they came out with a trans that could alter its gear ratios(no, definitely not CVTs).
Taller tires still make your gearing taller, including your FDR(final drive ratio), and you still lose mileage.
Having the shortest rear-end ratio the manufacturer offers is the way to go. Especially considering how cheap it is (if offered) from the manufacturer.
I don't know if Ford offers the 3.73s with motors other than the 5l though.
My '12 3.5 came with 'em, but I noticed when I attempted to add 'em on their site before I bought my '18, every time I selected them the configurator told me I had to change to the 5L

acdii

Or Ford determined that 3.73:1 on the Ecoboost were inefficient, and has the 3.55:1 instead. Stock, I tend to find it to be the case, Upgrading wheels and tires to a size larger than stock however, have to agree that the 3.73:1 are the way to go to compensate. Could always get the basic axles and swap to the other gears while installing a TruTrak at the same time, only downside is a 4x4 requires both axles upgraded.

TheSolarWizard

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

The tires I absolutely love for the height-weight ratio and smoothness measured out to about 33.3” installed on the truck and by extrapolating out the stock tire size of 275/55R20 installed at around 31.4” and mostly coming with 3.55s, I determined that 3.73s and the taller size is almost identical. That means not having 3.55s would yield a final drive ratio around 3.2 to 1

regearing isn’t gonna happen because I’d be voiding warranty on axles and forking out $2500 and probably $4k because I’d never open an open diff without adding a front locker.

(Can you tell I over analyze stuff ?)

as far as pricing, I don’t think the dealers in SoCal are doing the discounts some of you seem to be getting when purchasing. I’ll of course talk to several before doing anything

i was thinking a CPO model with the 100k powertrain would be a prudent decision since I otherwise don’t buy warranties

DyLivn

I kinda wish mine would burn down so I could replace it with a new Ram Rebel, haha.

FordGate

So buy out of state.

RobTx

No kidding. Come to Texas, buy a Raptor, then sell it in Cali for about a 20K markup! Those things are crazy expensive in Ca.

TheSolarWizard

According to the DMW here I can’t title a vehicle from out of state until it’s got 7000 miles which is the other reason I’ve considered used.

believe me if solar wasn’t so great and San Diego’s weather no so perfect, I would have left already and may in fact move down to central florida in 12-18 months because that solar market is about to go crazy.

as far as a raptor if they weren’t still stuck on the old front end design which I hate, id consider it