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I lost interest in finding the original switch; namely because i do not have the wire from c405 going to connector c479. I know that from removing the tailgate cover (10 screws ?) and looking for any wire going to driver side tailgate latch. That is location of c479. Without it, I would need to run my own wire from c405 up thru tailgate hole and somehow try to keep it protected. I think you would need to remove the entire tailgate harness if you wanted to include a new wire in that loom. That seems like a lot of effort.
If you have c479 in tailgate, you can "just" put in a TILT SENSOR somewhere in tailgate and connect it to contacts in c479.
If you do not have c479 in tailgate, like my 2016, I plan to tie wrap a TILT SENSOR to the tailgate dampener (located behind passenger taillight). I then only have to run a wire from c405, pin 11, up to that light, maybe a 3 foot run.
If you have a 2017, not only can you activate "tailgate ajar" but you can also change how c405 pin 11 looks for ground. One challenge us < 2017 folks have is that pin 11 needs to be grounded for the "tailgate ajar" light to go off. So, in 2017, if you want to use a pin switch (typically NC) to trigger the sensor this can be easily done by modifying BCM (via Forscan) to trigger on OPEN ground connection (instead of how my 2016 works by wanting a ground connection to shut sensor off). I saw a picture somewhere of an 2017 F150 that used
I put my reed switch in the tail compartment. One side on the dampener and the other body. Perfect place, well protected,dry and out of sight.My dealer said back in July when I did this mod, that Ford was not stocking those faulty OEM switches and no plan to redesign them. I also wanted to do the OEM design. Parts also suggested junkyard, but you don't know if that switch is one of the faulty ones. Happy what I did, and it's done with no issues.
Last edited by tinner1; 11-06-2018 at 10:33 AM.
Reason: more info
Sorry Brady I do not, it was a very warm July morning,so I wasn't even thinking of pics. But 1/8" split flex conduit, and zip ties will make the install look OEM when you run the power wire from the connector in the conduit along the pass.side tail light harness and the ground wire in same conduit from the pass. tail light harness ground on pass.side frame to the reed switch in tail light cavity if somebody ever crawled under there. If you decide to go this route.
Last edited by tinner1; 11-07-2018 at 08:57 PM.
Reason: spelling
What would be the best way to modify a 2018 Platinum to look OEM? Not sure if I'm going to do it, since it would require removing the damn Husky liner, which was a bear to install, and can't imagine removing the sucker. But when I read the initial post, wasn't impressed by the installation. Thx.
What would be the best way to modify a 2018 Platinum to look OEM? Not sure if I'm going to do it, since it would require removing the damn Husky liner, which was a bear to install, and can't imagine removing the sucker. But when I read the initial post, wasn't impressed by the installation. Thx.
you didn't like Tinner1's description? Seemed like exactly what you are asking for.
you didn't like Tinner1's description? Seemed like exactly what you are asking for.
I think he's referring to disassembling C405, adding a pin, getting everything correctly back into place while holding your nose just right so the assembly goes back together and everything works the second or third time...
Got this working tonight. I do not have c479 in my tailgate so I had to run the wire from pin 11 of c405; thats the red wire in pix. The black wire (goes to COM on switch) runs to ground lug near c405. With this youtube video (big thanx to Airborne_Ape) getting c405 modified was simple. I chose to use a roller switch and completed a "proof of concept". If the switch fails, or stops working, so what. I lived without this feature and can limp further if need be until I come up with better switch setup. Also,the switch I got came in pack of 6.
Here are basic steps I used to install switch:
I drilled a single hole in truck.
I bent a piece of aluminum I had laying around. Drilled one hole in end. This is my mounting bracket.
I used tie-wraps to hold that aluminum bracket to my truck. I will replace with stainless screw or a plastic screw once I confirm everything.
I tie-wraped
to the bracket. I wired it to NC terminal. NC = Its CLOSED when roller arm depresses the pin. This means c405 pin 11 is now shorted to ground when tailgate is closed and roller arm is pushing pin down.
I mounted this in passenger rear tailight, right against the dampener. I did the final install with tailgate CLOSED so I could be sure the roller was holding the pin down. YES the roller does go along the rubber boot of dampener but at that point in the travel arc, its only a light touch.
When I put the light back in, I think it is maybe touching a bit. I expect it would be better if bracket was 1/2 inch lower.
11-06-2018, 09:33 AM
Tailgate Ajar, summary of what I learned so far
