Lare

I went to the Summit Racing site and put in the part number 61148CX, and it shows it as a SINGLE CHROME lug nut. On the Gorilla site, same thing and Gorilla shows the black as having BCX on the end instead of CX.

Pouring over the Gorilla site, it seems that the 61147BCX is the black chrome, lifetime lug, in a package of 4. 61148BCX is the same thing individually. So your part number seems to work, but it also seems like it should be chrome. I can't deny the picture, but that's what I found on the sites.
Still on the Gorilla site, 61147CX is a package of 4 of the item 61148CX, which is the chrome, lifetime lug.

Madcap57

Your answer lays here:
http://www.gorilla-auto.com/lug-nuts-page-09

61148cx and bcx are for bulk part numbers sold in boxes of 100.

Napalm

I know people say you shouldn't use an impact wrench but I'd like to say with the proper socket - and ensuring a solid fit - there is nothing wrong with using a impact wrench to remove lug nuts.

NEVER PUT ON - lug nuts with an impact wrench but that seems to be standard shop practice. Torque sticks suck and are inaccurate.

even a cheap Harbor Freight Torque wrench is better than using torque sticks on an impact or tightening with a breaker bar. At least get close to the right value.

lutter5-0

I haven't had bad luck with torque sticks, I don't own one, but the local tire guy uses it on every vehicle.

Napalm

I admit it's a broad brush statement but it's a bad design and bad idea.

They are inconsistent - while it won't under torque a lug nut it will over torque them. now 10% isn't so much an issue.

but more than 30% is approaching bad for the vehicle. Especially with AL wheels.

It might be less an issue for the F150 - but it's significant for something with hub patterns.

carrierj

That's good to know. When I installed my spacers not long ago, I hooked up the compressor and got out the impact, sockets etc. Only to read in the instructions NOT to use an impact wrench. Did a lot of sweating that day with removing 6 and installing 12 per tire using a 4-way!

Lare

I start threading by hand and then use an impact wrench dialed to minimum to spin them on. This only puts on about 30-40 lb.-ft. of torque, then I use a torque wrench to take them all to half spec, then to full spec. But that's just me.

Apparently there's a class action lawsuit in the works.
Wozniak, et al. v. Ford Motor Co., Case No. 2:17-cv-12794, in the U.S. District Court for the Eastern District of Michigan.
More information here
https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/lawsuit-news/817988-ford-class-action-says-lug-nuts-fall-apart-leaving-drivers-stranded/
but I don't know how to get into the class.

Joeyd6

I posted where to join in July....
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/lug-n...awsuit-389120/

Lare

Thanky you, Joeyd6. I missed it.

Dave57

I thought I would add some pictures from my experience with the OEM lug nuts. I recently replaced the originals with Gorilla lug nuts due to the issues with wrench fit. I had to use a 22 mm socket to remove some of the original damaged nuts even though they are intended to be a 21 mm socket size. The damage on the original nuts on my vehicle was completely due to mechanical damage from most likely a 12-point socket and an impact wrench. There was no sign of any rust (see last photo with cover removed).


The first attached photo shows the original vs new Gorilla nuts side by side.
The second photo shows the "swollen" original nut measurement at 22.26 mm.
The third photo shows the new Gorilla nut measurement of 20.77 mm.
The last photo shows the cover removed from the original nut.


The main reason I changed the nuts was that the lug wrench provided with the truck would not fit some of the swollen nuts and that would be a big problem if you had to change a tire on the road. If you use a 6-point socket with the original nuts and never used an impact tool, you would probably not have an issue, but I sure like the look and feel of the solid nuts and the cost was just a little over $2.30 per nut.