mhamershock

You don't need to tap anything if this is here. It's not on mine so I will tap fronts. Once I figure out the wiring on my 2018 I'll post a photo or 2.

If you need a WPT-1212 I have one I can't use. $30 shipped.



Behind Drivers side C pillar cover.


Plug pulled out a bit. WPT1212 needed for connection.

mhamershock

So behind each kick panel are white block connectors with numerous wires in and out. The Front speaker wires are easily accessible here for a t tap. Color code as is shown above. I pulled power from the battery, and remote start from fuse position 5 (unused) which is turned on with accessories. I'll finish the wiring later and give it a test. No Forscan used to this point, and shouldn't need any.

rtpjunior

iTrader: (4)

PM sent for harness....

mhamershock

So my TBX10A is now installed in my 2018 Lariat with the stock non-Sony head unit. I had no sub connector in the C pillar, so I wired myself. Power from battery, remote from fuse #37, inputs from Front L&R via a Line Converter. No Forscan needed for this install at all.

Makes a solid difference in the quality of the sound system by filling in all the lows that the door speakers can't produce. I upgraded all 7 stock speakers + the sub for about $400. Budget! And it sounds fine. I'm not trying to wake the dead or shatter glass. I just want to listen to Van Halen at 15-20 on the volume **** and it's great for that.

Thanks to D2Abbott for this suggestion. It's worked out great for me.

Mike

odus

Wow what all did you get for 400 bucks?

mhamershock

Polk Audio DB 652
Polk Audio DB 692
Kicker 44KSC3504
Kicker 44KST2004
HushMat 12850 Kit
Metra 72-5602 Speaker Wiring Harness X2
Metra 82-5605 Speaker Mounting Brackets X2

All the above from Crutchfield for $300, and the TBX10A from WallyMart for $50, plus a little wiring and a few connectors.

Mike

TTKammer

I went both routes, and don't like using the signal from the harness behind the "C" pillar. Here's why...

I started by adding the the factory Kicker upgrade, and when I activated it through ForScan, it sounded like the volume/sound/range was cut from the rest of the seven speakers. It just sounded to me as if the "engineer" that set up the low pass filter settings, the crossover settings, etc... missed the mark and the overall sound of the system suffered once the subwoofer option was activated. I wasn't happy with it, and pulled it out within a week.

I returned the ForScan settings to factory, tapped the rear speaker leads on both sides, and then added an amp and subwoofer (a Pioneer 10" sub and a Pioneer 300 watt amp). THIS is what I was looking for!

I think you're on the right track with a stand-alone sub/amp, but my suggestion would be to avoid the ForScan change and the subwoofer harness behind the "C" pillar.

mhamershock

My final config does not require ForScan at all. However I was told that the Rears are bandwidth limited, and to tap the front door speakers, so that's what I did. Sounds really good to my damaged ears.

Mike

TTKammer

I have also heard that the front speakers have better range (I wish I had heard that BEFORE I did my install), but at this point in the game... I am not going to tear it all apart again. I got exactly what I wanted out of the system, and have no complaints. Glad you are happy with the end result.

sgreer5

Do you mind sharing exactly how you did this switch back? I have a 2016 XLT with 7 speakers and no sub. I added a line out converter that tapped into my rear speakers and I changed my ACM module in Forscan to "7 speakers with kicker sub".

I now realize this cuts the low frequencies from the rear speakers that I've tapped into, but the ACM module now only has options for configurations with kicker sub since I made the change. There is no longer an option in my ACM module for no kicker sub.

How do I get my ACM module back to factory 7 speakers with no sub? I tried looking at the FORScan spreadsheet but it's very overwhelming and I'm nervous I'm going to mess something up.