So my truck batterey died...............
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So my truck batterey died...............
So remember what you discus with your significant other and others! I just mentioned to my Wife that the battery in the truck sounded like it was getting weak for the last day or two and explained to her the whole Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) thing and how cold weather is bad for batteries! We talked about this all the way to the dump to throw out old crap that we had in storage for 10 years. Then BAM! clickety buzz....buzzz click click click! Luckily there was a millennial there in a Kia Optima that gave me a jump, but he refused to rev his engine to increase charging amps to make it go quicker. After 20 minutes it charged enough to start right up.
Ever since then it has been starting great, even on Remote Start!The moral of this story is "don't jinx yourself"!
Ever since then it has been starting great, even on Remote Start!The moral of this story is "don't jinx yourself"!
Last edited by RubyRedX3; 12-15-2018 at 10:18 AM.
#2
I had the same thing happen to us on moving day..... We had everything packed up in Uhaul and had to perform 3 more trips with the truck (no trailer). First run was hmm something doesn't sound right on start-up. On second run it could barely turn but managed to start, I went directly to autozone and had them install. Added extra hours to my day but so happy it had one last start.
#3
Did you go with a new AGM or Lead acid?
Also when I was using Forscan to disable AutoStop, I had a warning come up that said the charging system was reduced by BMS.
So I ordered the AutoStop Eliminator. I didn't like affecting the BMS charge control just to turn off the AutoStop. Happy Now!
Also when I was using Forscan to disable AutoStop, I had a warning come up that said the charging system was reduced by BMS.
So I ordered the AutoStop Eliminator. I didn't like affecting the BMS charge control just to turn off the AutoStop. Happy Now!
Last edited by KYSport; 12-15-2018 at 10:26 AM.
#5
Yep, disabling the BMS actually ensures better charging... the BMS' function is to reduce engine load, thus saving minute amounts of fuel.
#6
My truck is not used often, but it behaves strangely with battery drain. I charge it weekly, but sometimes after battery is fully charged, the next time I charge it is a lot more discharged than others without any reason. Weird. BMS is active, and *** is always disabled since I always use sport mode. Interior lights are also turned off, and all other lighting options are at zero. But many lights still stay on when opening a door until closed, or timed out after like 10 minutes, but that shouldn't be the case of discharging when parked, since I hardly ever open a door after it's parked. Just leave the hood open, but that doesn't trigger any lights. Without a charger, I'm sure I'd have experience a dead battery already, but most modern cars have heavy parasitic losses nowadays, so not unexpected. My motorcycle stays green even after 2 weeks of rest. Nice .
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#9
Senior Member
Just went through this on Wives 11 Rav 4 after getting oil change they said the 7yr old oem battery was slowing down. Made the change the next day installed brand new Interstate 24F. Played with my 13 oh it just weak because of sitting all week to having the oh darn moment. Luckily always carry a Lithium jump start kit everywhere in the truck and it is now paid off many times over. The unit get's a refresh charge every month and don't leave home without it, also carry one in UTV that has helped many person get going.
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#10
Senior Member
HOnestly with a modern car and OEM battery I'm surprised when they go much more than 3-4 years. Aftermarket - varies but I'm still surprised when they go much past year 5. Reasoning for that - parasitic losses have gone up a good bit recently - your infotainment systems and their need for update and the like. Used to be a car had a off loss rate of 0.5 to 0.8 amps, now some are as high as 1.5 amps. Doesn't sound like a log but it adds up.
ANother thing that I don't know is in the manual but it should be. Cars with the keyless start (push button start) draw more prior to start up and in some cases might not go to sleep - which adds to that loss. IE when you walk up - prior to opening the door all the computers wake up and in some cases the screens come on - before the doors are even unlocked. another thing some people leave their fob too close (or worse in) the car when it's parked for a duration. (I'd say overnight but some people work night shift) Ideally all the modern cars have an on, active, and sleep mode in terms of battery draw state, for lack of a better term.
If your keyless start equipped car - notices the fob within activate range (like when you walk up to the door) then the system will stay primed in activate mode. Now my wife used to love to leave the key in her purse and the purse in the car - till it killed our first battery in year 1, ok 15 months. There is some variance as to how far away that this - I know of one instance where guy parked his car in the garage - and kept the key fob/ring on a peg by the house door like he always did - turned out that was within range since it was near the car. His new car battery died in 10 months - the replacement did to. Yet his car checked out fine. I suggested putting the key elsewhere once I saw the peg board. he's now on year 2 without any issues.
Also the stock batteries don't seem to have the reserve capacity that most aftermarket AGM's have - and I think that's another factor. Anywho I'm on year 5 with the duracell AGM from Sam's in my G8 - that while daily driven, lives outside of the garage mostly, and is not on a tender of any sort. If I had a modern car I didn't drive more than 20 miles weekly I would be putting it on a modern AGM compatible battery tender.
ANother thing that I don't know is in the manual but it should be. Cars with the keyless start (push button start) draw more prior to start up and in some cases might not go to sleep - which adds to that loss. IE when you walk up - prior to opening the door all the computers wake up and in some cases the screens come on - before the doors are even unlocked. another thing some people leave their fob too close (or worse in) the car when it's parked for a duration. (I'd say overnight but some people work night shift) Ideally all the modern cars have an on, active, and sleep mode in terms of battery draw state, for lack of a better term.
If your keyless start equipped car - notices the fob within activate range (like when you walk up to the door) then the system will stay primed in activate mode. Now my wife used to love to leave the key in her purse and the purse in the car - till it killed our first battery in year 1, ok 15 months. There is some variance as to how far away that this - I know of one instance where guy parked his car in the garage - and kept the key fob/ring on a peg by the house door like he always did - turned out that was within range since it was near the car. His new car battery died in 10 months - the replacement did to. Yet his car checked out fine. I suggested putting the key elsewhere once I saw the peg board. he's now on year 2 without any issues.
Also the stock batteries don't seem to have the reserve capacity that most aftermarket AGM's have - and I think that's another factor. Anywho I'm on year 5 with the duracell AGM from Sam's in my G8 - that while daily driven, lives outside of the garage mostly, and is not on a tender of any sort. If I had a modern car I didn't drive more than 20 miles weekly I would be putting it on a modern AGM compatible battery tender.