Should I get a warranty for 2,225 from dealer?
#11
Senior Member
Based on your mileage, it's most likely not a Ford ESP. It would be a third party warranty. In that case, make sure to read all the nitty gritty. They will sometime require full maintenance at their garage in order to honor it, which is bullcrap IMO.
Ford ESP is the way to go for a true extended warranty and is a lot cheaper on internet than at a dealership, but as I said, I don't think they sell one after the vehicle reaches the 3y/36k mark. There's like a 200-300% margin of profit... My ESP was MSRP 2500$ at the dealership and I learned that it cost them 950$ (what Ford corporate was charging the dealership). The rest was pure profit in their pocket. I got it for 1000$.
Ford ESP is the way to go for a true extended warranty and is a lot cheaper on internet than at a dealership, but as I said, I don't think they sell one after the vehicle reaches the 3y/36k mark. There's like a 200-300% margin of profit... My ESP was MSRP 2500$ at the dealership and I learned that it cost them 950$ (what Ford corporate was charging the dealership). The rest was pure profit in their pocket. I got it for 1000$.
#12
#13
Senior Member
Try it! All you need to do is enter the vehicle's information.
I thought they didn't offer Ford ESP after the basic warranty period expiration, but it looks like they do! If you can get one of these and you really want an extended warranty, get it. Don't take a third party warranty.
I thought they didn't offer Ford ESP after the basic warranty period expiration, but it looks like they do! If you can get one of these and you really want an extended warranty, get it. Don't take a third party warranty.
#14
Super Duper Senior Member
Agreed. The truck had a really good maintenance history too. The original owner took the truck to the dealership for all work, including oil changes, brakes, etc. I have all of his paperwork. Dealer was very surprised it was the engine, that's why they checked so much else first. (which I didn't get charged for) Tech told me that he thinks my oil pump was going bad or went out. He didn't get the chance to tear onto it and diagnose once they found metal shavings in the oil pan, and under the valve cover.
#15
Super Duper Senior Member
Warranties are not always about breaking even on cost. There is a cost we accept to pay and not get back for the peace of mind if there is a big bill. No different than car insurance, etc. As long as you read the fine print and do your research on who is providing the warranty you are good. Just make sure it covers all the things you want it to.
#16
This. Can you afford a big repair bill if it comes up during that warranty period? Chances are, nothing will happen. But what if something does. My engine replacement was $7500 under warranty. The warranty company insisted on a Ford engine. Could have done a Jasper or others for closer to $5000. Only cost me $100 deductible.
#17
This. Can you afford a big repair bill if it comes up during that warranty period? Chances are, nothing will happen. But what if something does. My engine replacement was $7500 under warranty. The warranty company insisted on a Ford engine. Could have done a Jasper or others for closer to $5000. Only cost me $100 deductible.
#18
Ive had completely different experiences as some of you guys.
I pretty much buy a warranty (service contract) on every vehicle I buy unless it's a brand new one.
I do my research and negotiate to pay a good price and make sure it covers everything (that I need).
I've used my warranties every single time because I'm much more likely to take it in if I have a warranty to begin with.
I took it in for a squeak and the tech ended up replacing the water pump, timing belt tensioner, idler and something else all under warranty. I just had to pay a parts price for the idler because technically there wasn't anything wrong with it, but since they 'were in there', it was recommended.
Also, I always try to sell my car a little bit before the warranty runs out and let the buyer get the remainder, so the sale has been much easier for me.
At 2,225, it could be a good deal, or it could be a bad deal. If its a powertrain only to 60k, then it's probably not that good a deal. If it's the Platinum for 75k or 100k, then its a pretty decent deal I think.
I pretty much buy a warranty (service contract) on every vehicle I buy unless it's a brand new one.
I do my research and negotiate to pay a good price and make sure it covers everything (that I need).
I've used my warranties every single time because I'm much more likely to take it in if I have a warranty to begin with.
I took it in for a squeak and the tech ended up replacing the water pump, timing belt tensioner, idler and something else all under warranty. I just had to pay a parts price for the idler because technically there wasn't anything wrong with it, but since they 'were in there', it was recommended.
Also, I always try to sell my car a little bit before the warranty runs out and let the buyer get the remainder, so the sale has been much easier for me.
At 2,225, it could be a good deal, or it could be a bad deal. If its a powertrain only to 60k, then it's probably not that good a deal. If it's the Platinum for 75k or 100k, then its a pretty decent deal I think.
#19
Senior Member
That's by far the exception, not the rule. For almost everyone, extended warranties for any product are a bad investment.
#20
Senior Member
Warranties are not investments. They are expenses to protect other assets. Same as any insurance for your vehicle, home, property, etc. I bought an aftermarket powertrain warranty for my 10 year old BMW M3, 4 years 50k miles. New motor is 20K. Chances are I won’t need it, but I sleep a lot better at night knowing I’m not exposed for a 20k repair bill.