School me on IWE's
#51
The guy you're dealing with very badly needs an education. A locked IWE will most definetly cause the half shaft to turn right into the front diff.
As far as an unlocked IWE doing that, the only thing you'd have is windage, not saying that it wouldn't turn the shaft, theoretically. But I can't imagine in real life that the air in the hub could come up with that much friction.
As far as an unlocked IWE doing that, the only thing you'd have is windage, not saying that it wouldn't turn the shaft, theoretically. But I can't imagine in real life that the air in the hub could come up with that much friction.
#52
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Ya, I noticed that in your video, sorta made me think that you may possibly have a hose there that is cracked, and as the wheel is turned left/right, the crack is pinched open/closed. Could even be the hose is not attached securely to the nipple. Just food for thought.
#53
For sure something to consider looking at. It did maintain rotation at the other turnaround mid way through while it was in 4H, and it definitely bucks a bit on dry in 4 and not 2 as expected. I need a leak down tester and I can do some more fiddling. I just hate that I have to do all the diagnostics, but my time is worth more than continually running to the dealer
#54
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I need to get a handheld vacuum pump myself, just to have around in case. Seems everytime I'm around Harbor Freight I forget about it. I don't need a top of the line one for as much as I'd use it. I think for $35 or less one can be had.
#55
Senior Member
Was thinking that myself... apparently a mitivac brake bleeder can double as a vacuum gauge. Makes sense.
So... parts in, worked on the front diff rebuild for a time yesterday, all day today, and the service adviser is reporting 50/50 chance of it being finished today.
He also said he spoke with the shop foreman who reports that they fully tested the complete vacuum/IWE system, twice, and everything is fine. I suppose I'll end up going through it all myself again, just to confirm.
Anyway, apparently they are rebuilding the front diff completely. **Everything** inside the housing. Ring and pinion gears, carrier, spider gears, all bearings, oil slinger, everything. They think it was bad from the factory and is unrelated to the 4wd system.
So... parts in, worked on the front diff rebuild for a time yesterday, all day today, and the service adviser is reporting 50/50 chance of it being finished today.
He also said he spoke with the shop foreman who reports that they fully tested the complete vacuum/IWE system, twice, and everything is fine. I suppose I'll end up going through it all myself again, just to confirm.
Anyway, apparently they are rebuilding the front diff completely. **Everything** inside the housing. Ring and pinion gears, carrier, spider gears, all bearings, oil slinger, everything. They think it was bad from the factory and is unrelated to the 4wd system.
#57
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That's telling you the valve is bad, yes. That's a good inexpensive place to start, hopefully that's the problem. Many have found the same thing, and the valve took care of the problem, myself included.
#58
Was thinking that myself... apparently a mitivac brake bleeder can double as a vacuum gauge. Makes sense.
So... parts in, worked on the front diff rebuild for a time yesterday, all day today, and the service adviser is reporting 50/50 chance of it being finished today.
He also said he spoke with the shop foreman who reports that they fully tested the complete vacuum/IWE system, twice, and everything is fine. I suppose I'll end up going through it all myself again, just to confirm.
Anyway, apparently they are rebuilding the front diff completely. **Everything** inside the housing. Ring and pinion gears, carrier, spider gears, all bearings, oil slinger, everything. They think it was bad from the factory and is unrelated to the 4wd system.
So... parts in, worked on the front diff rebuild for a time yesterday, all day today, and the service adviser is reporting 50/50 chance of it being finished today.
He also said he spoke with the shop foreman who reports that they fully tested the complete vacuum/IWE system, twice, and everything is fine. I suppose I'll end up going through it all myself again, just to confirm.
Anyway, apparently they are rebuilding the front diff completely. **Everything** inside the housing. Ring and pinion gears, carrier, spider gears, all bearings, oil slinger, everything. They think it was bad from the factory and is unrelated to the 4wd system.
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johnday in BFE (10-26-2018)
#59
Senior Member
Picked up my rig on Friday (at the dealership all week).
They rebuilt the front diff completely, new ring and pinion, carrier, spider gears, bearings, races pinion seal, everything.
Swore up and down that the IWE/vacuum system was fine, and said there were a handful of 2015's that got bad ring/pinions from the factory. They'd even fixed one two weeks before mine.
Said that that truck was making the same groaning noise in 2wd and 4wd as mine was. Also reported that my diff was low on oil, and the magnetic fill plug had particles on it, and the oil was loaded with metallic particles.
I had just changed that fluid 2 weeks prior and did not observe metallic particles in the oil. Also, I filled it until it was dribbling out of the fill plug. I swear the driver's side IWE was sticking the entire time I took a 500 mile trip, so I wonder if the front diff just got burned up in those 2 weeks. Doesn't explain the front groaning/whirring noise though.
Post repair, it is noticeably quieter. No more humming/droning sound from the front-end. 4wd is almost as silent as 2wd... just barely louder than 2wd.
I swear the failing IWE's played a role. As such, I took a video of both front axles in 2wd and 4wd in a loop around my neighborhood, and sure enough, both axle shafts are turning.
I still wonder, if the axles are supposed to turn, why are there IWE's in the front at all? My 1999 Jeep Cherokee didn't use a vacuum system in the front end, so the tires were driving the front diff and front driveshaft all the time when it was in 2wd. Seems like its just a hit on gas mileage and whatever wear would occur in the front-end.
Anyway, I think I'm going to diagnose the IWE system w/ my little mityvac brake bleeder thing.
They rebuilt the front diff completely, new ring and pinion, carrier, spider gears, bearings, races pinion seal, everything.
Swore up and down that the IWE/vacuum system was fine, and said there were a handful of 2015's that got bad ring/pinions from the factory. They'd even fixed one two weeks before mine.
Said that that truck was making the same groaning noise in 2wd and 4wd as mine was. Also reported that my diff was low on oil, and the magnetic fill plug had particles on it, and the oil was loaded with metallic particles.
I had just changed that fluid 2 weeks prior and did not observe metallic particles in the oil. Also, I filled it until it was dribbling out of the fill plug. I swear the driver's side IWE was sticking the entire time I took a 500 mile trip, so I wonder if the front diff just got burned up in those 2 weeks. Doesn't explain the front groaning/whirring noise though.
Post repair, it is noticeably quieter. No more humming/droning sound from the front-end. 4wd is almost as silent as 2wd... just barely louder than 2wd.
I swear the failing IWE's played a role. As such, I took a video of both front axles in 2wd and 4wd in a loop around my neighborhood, and sure enough, both axle shafts are turning.
I still wonder, if the axles are supposed to turn, why are there IWE's in the front at all? My 1999 Jeep Cherokee didn't use a vacuum system in the front end, so the tires were driving the front diff and front driveshaft all the time when it was in 2wd. Seems like its just a hit on gas mileage and whatever wear would occur in the front-end.
Anyway, I think I'm going to diagnose the IWE system w/ my little mityvac brake bleeder thing.
#60
Picked up my rig on Friday (at the dealership all week).
They rebuilt the front diff completely, new ring and pinion, carrier, spider gears, bearings, races pinion seal, everything.
Swore up and down that the IWE/vacuum system was fine, and said there were a handful of 2015's that got bad ring/pinions from the factory. They'd even fixed one two weeks before mine.
Said that that truck was making the same groaning noise in 2wd and 4wd as mine was. Also reported that my diff was low on oil, and the magnetic fill plug had particles on it, and the oil was loaded with metallic particles.
I had just changed that fluid 2 weeks prior and did not observe metallic particles in the oil. Also, I filled it until it was dribbling out of the fill plug. I swear the driver's side IWE was sticking the entire time I took a 500 mile trip, so I wonder if the front diff just got burned up in those 2 weeks. Doesn't explain the front groaning/whirring noise though.
Post repair, it is noticeably quieter. No more humming/droning sound from the front-end. 4wd is almost as silent as 2wd... just barely louder than 2wd.
I swear the failing IWE's played a role. As such, I took a video of both front axles in 2wd and 4wd in a loop around my neighborhood, and sure enough, both axle shafts are turning.
I still wonder, if the axles are supposed to turn, why are there IWE's in the front at all? My 1999 Jeep Cherokee didn't use a vacuum system in the front end, so the tires were driving the front diff and front driveshaft all the time when it was in 2wd. Seems like its just a hit on gas mileage and whatever wear would occur in the front-end.
Anyway, I think I'm going to diagnose the IWE system w/ my little mityvac brake bleeder thing.
They rebuilt the front diff completely, new ring and pinion, carrier, spider gears, bearings, races pinion seal, everything.
Swore up and down that the IWE/vacuum system was fine, and said there were a handful of 2015's that got bad ring/pinions from the factory. They'd even fixed one two weeks before mine.
Said that that truck was making the same groaning noise in 2wd and 4wd as mine was. Also reported that my diff was low on oil, and the magnetic fill plug had particles on it, and the oil was loaded with metallic particles.
I had just changed that fluid 2 weeks prior and did not observe metallic particles in the oil. Also, I filled it until it was dribbling out of the fill plug. I swear the driver's side IWE was sticking the entire time I took a 500 mile trip, so I wonder if the front diff just got burned up in those 2 weeks. Doesn't explain the front groaning/whirring noise though.
Post repair, it is noticeably quieter. No more humming/droning sound from the front-end. 4wd is almost as silent as 2wd... just barely louder than 2wd.
I swear the failing IWE's played a role. As such, I took a video of both front axles in 2wd and 4wd in a loop around my neighborhood, and sure enough, both axle shafts are turning.
I still wonder, if the axles are supposed to turn, why are there IWE's in the front at all? My 1999 Jeep Cherokee didn't use a vacuum system in the front end, so the tires were driving the front diff and front driveshaft all the time when it was in 2wd. Seems like its just a hit on gas mileage and whatever wear would occur in the front-end.
Anyway, I think I'm going to diagnose the IWE system w/ my little mityvac brake bleeder thing.
It would be nice to know if there is some amount of turning on a known properly working truck.