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OK, I got the tools to pull the gray pin, It finally warmed up enough I could look under the dash and I found the module.
I was not able to get the module free from the mounting bracket and was not able to get the green connector pulled apart from the module.
Any advice on this would be appreciated.
Marc
Looking at the setup it appeared to me there is really nothing gained by removing the module if you are going to modify at the connector.... as your working space will still be limited by the harness length with the module loose. I opted to just remove the green connector. It was quite stiff, but depress the green tab and while attempting to pull STRAIGHT out give it a slight up-down-side-side motion to wiggle loose and it should come free.... as long as the tab is depressed fully, doubtful you will break anything.
Then your next battle is releasing the pin from the connector. Not 'easy' but also mentioned throughout the thread. I did it with a straight pick.... remove white insert completely from connector face, then visually inspect the green tab inside the connector that is holding the pin in... I put some pressure on it with the pick from the connector face side and was able to release it without too much struggle. Something that after fumbling with it for a while would now be able to do with ease next time around... unfortunately it just takes a little time to figure out what you're working with. Just tugging wont work
Last edited by gonethinkn; 01-14-2018 at 11:02 PM.
Thanks, I did depress the green tab, I thought all the way, and wiggled it a bit and it did not budge. I guess I just have to convince it a wee bit more for it to come out.
I agree that it does not look like removing the module would help much. As long as I can get the green connector out it should be a walk in the minefield. er, park.
You you need to pull down on part of the white front piece to get it out. I pulled that down with a fingernail and used a small flathead screw driver and a twisting motion to get it to pop out.
I used the same small screw driver to keep the white piece from popping back in. It didn't feel like it would pull completely out.
I had better luck with releasing the latch from the back than the front. Where the green bumps are on the back of the connector is where the latches are.
I used a 0.050 Allen wrench to pop the latch and pull the plug out the back. The smallest one in the following picture. Any really small, fairly strong thing will work though. I've seen someone do it with an eye glasses screw driver too. That's assuming you don't have the actual tool for this.
I got the plug out of the module today and the white piece 1/2 way out and it would go no more. About the my back gave up so i put it back together. I could not get the white piece completely out. Is it supposed to come out? The picture above may help me.
I even tried using my pick to get the terminal out of the block and failed at that too. Maybe I don't need to do this mod But it sure would be nice p at the cabin on the back roads at night. Do you have any pictures on which pick you used and which side of the terminal you inserted it into? I just want to make sure I understand the above pictures.
Am I also correct that the jumper goes between where the gray wire comes out and the SINGLE pink wire?
I even went to wire up the dash cam today and could not get the fuse panel cover off. I think I was just having a dumb day or I did not want to break anything. How do you get the fuse panel off. The one in the passenger footwell. Sorry that is off topic.
I got the plug out of the module today and the white piece 1/2 way out and it would go no more. About the my back gave up so i put it back together. I could not get the white piece completely out. Is it supposed to come out? The picture above may help me.
I even tried using my pick to get the terminal out of the block and failed at that too. Maybe I don't need to do this mod But it sure would be nice p at the cabin on the back roads at night. Do you have any pictures on which pick you used and which side of the terminal you inserted it into? I just want to make sure I understand the above pictures.
Am I also correct that the jumper goes between where the gray wire comes out and the SINGLE pink wire?
I even went to wire up the dash cam today and could not get the fuse panel cover off. I think I was just having a dumb day or I did not want to break anything. How do you get the fuse panel off. The one in the passenger footwell. Sorry that is off topic.
Lots of us that have done this mod advise to just cut the dam grey wire!
Thanks for this idea. Obviously from all the info provided in this thread several different ways to do this and accomplish the same result... jumper, cut & splice, open module to jump inside.... one could even make the jump at the bcm as recently mentioned which will probably be the best for those wanting battery saver or key-on supply voltage instead of constant... but I haven't dug into that because these other methods seem much easier and 12v constant works for me.
In diagram I found pin 1 and 3 to share the same source of 12v constant (same colors also). Since pin 1 already has 2 wires in it I didn't use it (just for the sake of room). I used pin 3... opened up the crimp and soldered the cut end of the gray pin 2 wire. Some heat shrink on cut gray wire and all set.
same principle as shoving a jumper wire in, but IMO this mod is worthy of permanent setup
Doing some more thinking about this now that there is a huge pile of snow outside, Would it be OK just to leave the gray wire in place and jump from pin 3 to pin 2 in the SLM plug? It appears that the gray wire just carries 12 volts from the BCM when going below 5MPH. I am not seeing why it would be a problem to have the gray wire hot all the time. But I am not an electronics engineer. Would back feeding the voltage up to the BCM actually hurt anything? This just seems so easy as there is nothing to remove, cut, or otherwise change from stock. Just add a jumper. At any rate I will take these projects up in the spring when it warms up some.
Doing some more thinking about this now that there is a huge pile of snow outside, Would it be OK just to leave the gray wire in place and jump from pin 3 to pin 2 in the SLM plug? It appears that the gray wire just carries 12 volts from the BCM when going below 5MPH. I am not seeing why it would be a problem to have the gray wire hot all the time. But I am not an electronics engineer. Would back feeding the voltage up to the BCM actually hurt anything? This just seems so easy as there is nothing to remove, cut, or otherwise change from stock. Just add a jumper.
OK Let me have it
No one has been willing to try it to see what back feeding might hurt! You can do a public service by being the first..
Doing some more thinking about this now that there is a huge pile of snow outside, Would it be OK just to leave the gray wire in place and jump from pin 3 to pin 2 in the SLM plug? It appears that the gray wire just carries 12 volts from the BCM when going below 5MPH. I am not seeing why it would be a problem to have the gray wire hot all the time. But I am not an electronics engineer. Would back feeding the voltage up to the BCM actually hurt anything? This just seems so easy as there is nothing to remove, cut, or otherwise change from stock. Just add a jumper.
OK Let me have it
Worth a try. I would recomend testing polarity of the gray wire when over 5mph... if it switches to negative instead of neutral, we’ll that would be bad of course feeding it 12v+
Worth a try. I would recomend testing polarity of the gray wire when over 5mph... if it switches to negative instead of neutral, we’ll that would be bad of course feeding it 12v+
And make sure you videotape that! (Especially if you’re the one driving *and* testing the voltage/polarity.)
01-14-2018, 10:59 PM
er, park.
But it sure would be nice p at the cabin on the back roads at night. Do you have any pictures on which pick you used and which side of the terminal you inserted it into? I just want to make sure I understand the above pictures.
Would it be OK just to leave the gray wire in place and jump from pin 3 to pin 2 in the SLM plug? It appears that the gray wire just carries 12 volts from the BCM when going below 5MPH. I am not seeing why it would be a problem to have the gray wire hot all the time. But I am not an electronics engineer. Would back feeding the voltage up to the BCM actually hurt anything? This just seems so easy as there is nothing to remove, cut, or otherwise change from stock. Just add a jumper. At any rate I will take these projects up in the spring when it warms up some.
