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Any idea if the terminals in the two unused connectors are the right size to fit the bcm harness for ambient lighting data lines? Might Save me ordering extra terminals if they will fit
Just looked at my left over upfitter harness. There is a very good chance they will work for bcm, they look very close. just going by memory. Those pigtails will work for doors too perhaps.
Just looked at my left over upfitter harness. There is a very good chance they will work for bcm, they look very close. just going by memory. Those pigtails will work for doors too perhaps.
that would be awesome if they do, I harvested the 1 oem ambient connector from the passenger seat and was able to use a terminal for the power line but the other two are to big to fit the smaller data harnesses, anyone have extra wpt-1000 &1003 terminals to compare?
i was going to do this mod but i keep getting my order cancelled due to availability of the overhead console piece. i have the wiring harness with fuse block and i am thinking of just selling it
i was going to do this mod but i keep getting my order cancelled due to availability of the overhead console piece. i have the wiring harness with fuse block and i am thinking of just selling it
What's the part number I have a good source. He will be able to get it for sure
What's the part number I have a good source. He will be able to get it for sure
Thanks feifel. I just noticed the wire assembly I ordered was HC3Z-14A303-E and I got sent
HC3Z-14A303-F. Still waiting on an answer as to if it's the same. Not sure why my order was for one and they sent the other.
i still need these three parts below. Concord parts had the overhead console mislabeled price wise at 44 bucks and then they wouldnt sell it to me after I paid. I even asked for a discount due to the week it took to recognize their error and they wouldn't budge. So they just refunded me.
I'm making my own power distribution/relay board to put behind the driver side rear seat. Where are you guys running wire through the firewall from engine compartment to interior? Which side is best or easier to do? I could also run it underside along present wire looms and then run it into the back part of the cab, but would rather have most of it inside for better protection. --------- NEVER MIND ---------- FOUND SEVERAL ANSWERS SEARCHING AROUND FORUM !
Last edited by Bandera; 04-17-2017 at 07:51 AM.
Reason: found answer somewhere else in forum
Thanks feifel. I just noticed the wire assembly I ordered was HC3Z-14A303-E and I got sent
HC3Z-14A303-F. Still waiting on an answer as to if it's the same. Not sure why my order was for one and they sent the other.
@Devil68: I also received HC3Z-14A303-F harness/relay box because HC3Z-14A303-E was out of stock and the -F version superseded it. It works fine.
The part number suffix usually indicates a design or application change, and going forwards in the alphabet (e.g., A to B, E to F) is usually ok. This part might be a 2017 Raptor part instead of a Super Duty, or they may have made an improvement to the internal design. Either way, it is functionally the same.
I'm making my own power distribution/relay board to put behind the driver side rear seat. Where are you guys running wire through the firewall from engine compartment to interior? Which side is best or easier to do? I could also run it underside along present wire looms and then run it into the back part of the cab, but would rather have most of it inside for better protection. --------- NEVER MIND ---------- FOUND SEVERAL ANSWERS SEARCHING AROUND FORUM !
Passenger side seemed easiest for me. I have about 8 wires going through, roughly 18AWG each for my switches... BUT I've since built a relay board with a custom bracket for under the hood I'll be using:
just throwing this out there if no-one wants to purchase the entire console. If you just get the switches, it looks like it should be an easy installation. I have a 2016 XLT SuperCrew with just the rear powered sliding window and this is what my console looks like inside
and the mesh piece comes off pretty easy so you can probably modify the piece to accept the switches
Another thing someone could try is to find the Mesh part family that is already pre-cut for the switches.
Just for reference my mesh piece has a part number of FL3B-18519A-58-G-PIA44
04-14-2017, 11:05 PM
