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Retrofit 2017 F-250 Aux Switch Panel in F-150

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Old 02-25-2017, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jerehawn
I wired up the console and factory relay/fuse box today. I altered my design today and want to take illumination power off the rear window switch rather than from start/run power under the hood. Does anyone have the pin-out/schematic of the rear window switch and/or harness (2016 F150)?
Page 9. Of this thread
console connector diagrams

My notes on the project say to use pin4. cpb23 bin/ye. 10a circuit to accessory delay relay.

Although I did as per documents on upfitter and tapped vln04 on the pin10 vt-gy on c930. Hard to get to and solder.

Last edited by flsdiver; 02-26-2017 at 06:08 AM.
Old 02-25-2017, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by flsdiver
Page 9. Of this thread
post # works better for those who have it set to 40 posts per page
Old 02-25-2017, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jerehawn
... Does anyone have the pin-out/schematic of the rear window switch and/or harness (2016 F150)?
Here's the console connector in PDF
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
C9120.pdf (162.8 KB, 609 views)
Old 03-01-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by flsdiver
...... Ford up fitter relay box is mounted on custom cut/formed aluminum bracket. Still need to paint it black.......
I am still waiting on parts, but did you truck already have the 2 screws you used to hold the bracket?

I was looking on mine and there are no screws there it appears.
Old 03-01-2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by YDrive
I am still waiting on parts, but did you truck already have the 2 screws you used to hold the bracket?

I was looking on mine and there are no screws there it appears.
No existing holes. Remove the air box to gain room for install. Drill holes in bracket. Hold to inside fender. Mark holes. Drill inside fender. Insert some plastic body fasteners into holes. Mount with screws. Plastic body fastener does well to isolate screws from aluminum. The bracket is 2" aluminum bar bent and cut with slots where the box can slide onto bracket. Worked out really well.
Old 03-01-2017, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by flsdiver
No existing holes. Remove the air box to gain room for install. Drill holes in bracket. Hold to inside fender. Mark holes. Drill inside fender. Insert some plastic body fasteners into holes. Mount with screws. Plastic body fastener does well to isolate screws from aluminum. The bracket is 2" aluminum bar bent and cut with slots where the box can slide onto bracket. Worked out really well.

Ok thanks. I was looking at your pictures trying to figure out what was behind there either existing or to isolate the screws from the fender.

Did you buy those fasteners online somewhere or did you have them lying around? I have an assortment from some golf carts I have redone over the years, not sure if there is anything that will accept a screw that size though.
Old 03-01-2017, 08:27 PM
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Local auto parts. Pack of 10 various sizes in plastic/nylon. White. Kind of look like the things you screw your license plate into on an old chrome bumper vehicle, but a size smaller. Body screws I had plenty of laying around.
Spread out when screwed into. Really is solid.
Old 03-03-2017, 12:48 AM
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FLSDiver


Could you post a link of these plastic/nylon screws. I have to order everything living in the interior of Alaska.
Old 03-03-2017, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jerehawn
FLSDiver


Could you post a link of these plastic/nylon screws. I have to order everything living in the interior of Alaska.
sure...standard stuff, but my pictures don't capture with bracket off...
i think it was Dorman nylon nuts...pack of 10 or so? #961-355 if not exactly that, very close to what i used. Used largest or 2nd to largest for that size body screw.
Old 03-05-2017, 03:33 PM
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I've read through the thread a few times, and can't seem to arrive at a good answer.

Did anyone figure out a good solution for a Lariat 501A package, grey interior, with no moonroof? Going through the spreadsheet, I can't seem to find a version that's compatible.


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