Overcharging alternator help.
04-13-2019, 08:52 PM
#11
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Temperature hasn't been bad lately it was driven 30 mins twice a day and still stayed at 15v that's why I was thinking regulator to pcm, think i might have to bite the bullet in and just by a new battery to rule it out. It's just crazy how expensive the alternators are.
04-14-2019, 01:51 PM
#13
I'd disconnect the current sensor first... see if the BMS has gone wonky.
04-14-2019, 01:55 PM
#14
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I paid about 70 bucks for an alternator out of a wrecked F150. I wanted to upgrade to a 240amp and rather than pay for a new one went the second hand route.
04-14-2019, 04:31 PM
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I don't think it's the sensor. Truck reads same as the voltmeter directly off the battery. I checked the 3 prongs off the alternator and only the bottom one had voltage. I can't find anything if there's suppose to be voltage on the other ones or not. Thinking maybe it's not getting back to the pcm. Found a new one for 240 so I'll try that and let you know if that did it or not. Thanks for the help.
04-14-2019, 04:36 PM
#16
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It's the original battery to just over 4 years. I hooked up a snap on scanner from work but it only went to 2011 did give the codes p0625 generator control circuit low and p065b generator control circuit range/performance. That's why I'm thinking it might be the bad output.
P0625 Generator Field/F Terminal Circuit Low
The PCM sets this DTC if the GENMON circuit is shorted to ground, the "A" sense circuit is open or the B+ circuit is
open. This DTC also sets by a faulted PCM or generator.
P065B Generator Control Circuit Range/Performance
REPLACE the generator.
REFER to: Generator - 2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/324PS) (414-02 Generator and Regulator,
Removal and Installation).
One of the things mentioned in troubleshooting was checking the plugs on the generator for corrosion.
04-14-2019, 05:50 PM
#17
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Good idea didn't actually pull the plug to check. Live up north so a lot of salt so very well could just be the plug if not good thing I've got a new generator coming. Thanks a lot Gordy.
04-14-2019, 06:24 PM
#18
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04-15-2019, 11:16 AM
#19
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OK so did you check the field control wires in the plug for corrosion.
Meanwhile in your testing - did you ever check AC volts at the battery? Meter set to AC volts - car on - I like to have the headlights on and AC is possible, radio for sure. Then at the battery check voltage.
It would settle out to less than 1V AC. MOst digital MM's read AC volts as RMS or root means squared. SO it takes a second to settle it unless the current is constant like your house hold AC.
On the car it's quite variable - so give it just a second. If it stays up over 1Vac - your alternator is putting out too much varied current - and this also sets the alternator light as it's out of spec. AC current to the battery - slowly kills the battery. means the Diode pack/rectifier circuit is bad.
Meanwhile in your testing - did you ever check AC volts at the battery? Meter set to AC volts - car on - I like to have the headlights on and AC is possible, radio for sure. Then at the battery check voltage.
It would settle out to less than 1V AC. MOst digital MM's read AC volts as RMS or root means squared. SO it takes a second to settle it unless the current is constant like your house hold AC.
On the car it's quite variable - so give it just a second. If it stays up over 1Vac - your alternator is putting out too much varied current - and this also sets the alternator light as it's out of spec. AC current to the battery - slowly kills the battery. means the Diode pack/rectifier circuit is bad.
04-15-2019, 07:42 PM
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Nope. Honestly never knew about checking the battery for the ac input. If that is the case the alternator should fix that issue. Ill still check the plug when i can. Be nice if it's just a bad connector. Either way I've got a new alternator coming so hopefully that'll fix it if it's the rectifier.