Not Thrilled with 4x4
02-12-2019, 01:42 PM
#81
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oneida County, Central New York
Posts: 1,840
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While we're on the subject of 4L, I remembered seeing this in the manual under the ELD section:
In 4L (4X4 low), the electronic locking
differential will automatically
disengage at speeds above 62 mph
(100 km/h) and will automatically
reengage at speeds below 56 mph
(90 km/h).
Question: Has anyone ever run 62+ MPH in 4L?
In 4L (4X4 low), the electronic locking
differential will automatically
disengage at speeds above 62 mph
(100 km/h) and will automatically
reengage at speeds below 56 mph
(90 km/h).
Question: Has anyone ever run 62+ MPH in 4L?
LMAO. you sure it doesn't say 6.2 and 5.6?
02-12-2019, 01:58 PM
#82
Senior Member
While we're on the subject of 4L, I remembered seeing this in the manual under the ELD section:
In 4L (4X4 low), the electronic locking
differential will automatically
disengage at speeds above 62 mph
(100 km/h) and will automatically
reengage at speeds below 56 mph
(90 km/h).
Question: Has anyone ever run 62+ MPH in 4L?
In 4L (4X4 low), the electronic locking
differential will automatically
disengage at speeds above 62 mph
(100 km/h) and will automatically
reengage at speeds below 56 mph
(90 km/h).
Question: Has anyone ever run 62+ MPH in 4L?
02-12-2019, 03:59 PM
#84
Senior Member
I'm trying not to rant here, but frankly I don't understand how this could be or why anyone likes dealing with it. I mean, after all these years, is this the best they can come up with for drivetrain on these vehicles?
Coming from all wheel drive and front wheel drive cars, I've never had this issue.
The truck encounters situations where it's temporarily stuck and/or sounds like it's damaging itself trying to get out.
Yesterday, I turn into dad's driveway and the truck stops dead, rear wheel spinning. The driveway is a steep grade and about 120 degree turn. I understand the right inside wheel gets unweighted. I made a couple of attempts being gentle on the throttle and it was no-go. Next, I switched into 4A and ditto. Really? Additionally, the sounds it was making didn't inspire confidence. Everything's clean and dry here.
I didn't try locking the rear end because of the turn. I wound up driving past the driveway and backing up the hill.
Couple weeks ago I pulled off the road to take a cell call. The road was flat. I had two tires on the paved shoulder and two on hard pack. The drive wheel was in a puddle. When it was time to leave, the rear wheel wouldn't grab. Sat there spinning. I tried 4A and ditto, except some nasty banging. I reversed it and went forward and was able to get out. Again, I wasn't killing it, just trying to be smooth and gentle.
Another time I got stuck in my yard. I was towing a flatbed loaded with firewood. Granted, I was on a slope and it was pretty soft and muddy. I tried 4L to no avail. In this situation I guess I should have locked the rear end. Someone also said 4H would have done better than 4L because of the traction control.
The thing is, my all wheel drive Ridgeline would NEVER have done this crap. That car goes anywhere with no perceptible wheel spin or herky-jerky clucks and bangs. I understand they are different systems etc. and I'm not going to plow with an AWD car but honestly, I have little confidence in this truck and it's ability. I can't imagine off-roading with it. It sounds like it's going to self destruct pulling out of a puddle. I don't know if the AWD would have beat the mud, but the other two situations were ridiculous.
Here's what I'm told:
2x2 = 1 wheel drive (rear, right side wheel)
4x4 = 2 wheel drive (both right side wheels)
4x4 with rear diff locked = 3 wheel drive (both rear and front right side)
4L = 4x4 without traction control
4H = 4x4 with traction control
4A ? Like 4H, but safe (for the car) to use on dry pavement. I use this when I expect slippery conditions and it seems to help. The sound of the transfer case is worrisome.
What's the point of using 4L? Why not use 4H with traction control and shift into first gear?
TomJV
On the PLUS side, my 2015 V8 Larry with ICON shocks is going strong and drives like a sports car on clean pavement.
I use the pedal commander and shift manual most of the time and love the performance. Sorry, once you drive a stick, you gotta do it!
Coming from all wheel drive and front wheel drive cars, I've never had this issue.
The truck encounters situations where it's temporarily stuck and/or sounds like it's damaging itself trying to get out.
Yesterday, I turn into dad's driveway and the truck stops dead, rear wheel spinning. The driveway is a steep grade and about 120 degree turn. I understand the right inside wheel gets unweighted. I made a couple of attempts being gentle on the throttle and it was no-go. Next, I switched into 4A and ditto. Really? Additionally, the sounds it was making didn't inspire confidence. Everything's clean and dry here.
I didn't try locking the rear end because of the turn. I wound up driving past the driveway and backing up the hill.
Couple weeks ago I pulled off the road to take a cell call. The road was flat. I had two tires on the paved shoulder and two on hard pack. The drive wheel was in a puddle. When it was time to leave, the rear wheel wouldn't grab. Sat there spinning. I tried 4A and ditto, except some nasty banging. I reversed it and went forward and was able to get out. Again, I wasn't killing it, just trying to be smooth and gentle.
Another time I got stuck in my yard. I was towing a flatbed loaded with firewood. Granted, I was on a slope and it was pretty soft and muddy. I tried 4L to no avail. In this situation I guess I should have locked the rear end. Someone also said 4H would have done better than 4L because of the traction control.
The thing is, my all wheel drive Ridgeline would NEVER have done this crap. That car goes anywhere with no perceptible wheel spin or herky-jerky clucks and bangs. I understand they are different systems etc. and I'm not going to plow with an AWD car but honestly, I have little confidence in this truck and it's ability. I can't imagine off-roading with it. It sounds like it's going to self destruct pulling out of a puddle. I don't know if the AWD would have beat the mud, but the other two situations were ridiculous.
Here's what I'm told:
2x2 = 1 wheel drive (rear, right side wheel)
4x4 = 2 wheel drive (both right side wheels)
4x4 with rear diff locked = 3 wheel drive (both rear and front right side)
4L = 4x4 without traction control
4H = 4x4 with traction control
4A ? Like 4H, but safe (for the car) to use on dry pavement. I use this when I expect slippery conditions and it seems to help. The sound of the transfer case is worrisome.
What's the point of using 4L? Why not use 4H with traction control and shift into first gear?
TomJV
On the PLUS side, my 2015 V8 Larry with ICON shocks is going strong and drives like a sports car on clean pavement.
I use the pedal commander and shift manual most of the time and love the performance. Sorry, once you drive a stick, you gotta do it!
A fellow former Ridgeline owner here. I know what your saying about it's excellent AWD. Great truck imo.
To the topic at hand, It is apparent that this is enough of a turn to lift some weight off the inside wheel and your steering wheel is probably at full lock or close. In 2wd with traction control on, what should happen is that the wheel that is slipping gets the brake (thanks traction control) and transfer some of that power to the other wheel. Now I'm not sure how the F150 traction control works exactly, but some brands or models of vehicle will cut power if there is too much spinning going on. Pictures of the drive with the truck on it would help us all see how steep and cantered the truck is. But generally I could see a situation where there is too much torque load trying to be transferred to the other wheel so either the truck cuts power, or the wheel keeps spinning even though it is being braked.
What I'm having trouble understanding is that when you put it in 4A that you still have the problem, but now with pops clicks and grinds. Perhaps the one responder was correct that 4A will not activate if your steering wheel is turned far enough one way or the other. That doesn't seem right to me though because lets say your sitting at a stop light and going to turn left on a snowy road in 4A. I would think the 4WD would kick in even though the steering wheel is turned a decent amount. I tend to agree with the other contributors who say there may be something wrong with your locking hubs. Definitely get it checked out and let us know what you find out.
Another idea would be to find someone that has a similar year F150 as you with the same cab/bed and 4WD and see how their truck handles the same situation? I know that on the gen 1 Ridgeline that if you got it on two opposite wheels on a slight uphill, it would not go anywhere because it would overload the torque on the rear clutch differential. The new ones may not have that problem as they have torque vectoring in the rear axle (thanks Acura).