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What's the mounting depth? Doesn't look like the seats are going to go up after tackling this same project over the past couple weeks.
I am at 5" depth at 5" up from the bottom. Hoping to squeeze in a 4.5" deep woofer in this box. That going to be max I think. The burlap soaked in wood glue dried rock hard. That will help make the box stiffer!
speaker terminal in
red gard tile membrane helps seal the box with a rubbery coating and might help with damping of box also.
Have you tried folding the seats all the way up with that box back there? I couldn't even get a 4" depth to work without it constantly hanging and having to nearly break the seat in half to get the latch to engage. You lose probably 1"-1.5" when folding them up and out of the way which is why I ask....
Have you tried folding the seats all the way up with that box back there? I couldn't even get a 4" depth to work without it constantly hanging and having to nearly break the seat in half to get the latch to engage. You lose probably 1"-1.5" when folding them up and out of the way which is why I ask....
Ill test it and let you know. The box is tapered quite a bit and i have about 1" gap from back of seat to box. Fingers crossed!
Ill test it and let you know. The box is tapered quite a bit and i have about 1" gap from back of seat to box. Fingers crossed!
I do hope it works for you but I am a bit skeptical having just installed a box behind the seat in my truck. The box I installed was 4 3/8" at the base and 3 3/8" at the top and the seat back just touches the ring around my sub with the seat up. It will latch without force and works fine, just wish I had an extra 1/2" so it would not touch. My install info is here https://www.f150forum.com/f118/subwo...rience-327688/
Before you go any further, I would tack a front on and test the seat functionality. I highly doubt it works with those dimensions so I'd hate to see you have to break apart the box after you finish it.
I am at 5" depth at 5" up from the bottom. Hoping to squeeze in a 4.5" deep woofer in this box. That going to be max I think. The burlap soaked in wood glue dried rock hard. That will help make the box stiffer!
speaker terminal in
red gard tile membrane helps seal the box with a rubbery coating and might help with damping of box also.
Another way to make your box basically indestructible is after you've finished with the inside & completely put the box together, take it & have it Line-X on the outside. My buddy did this to his & WOW.....talk about night & day difference in sound quality, that box had 0 flex & the bass hit harder & sounded better. Just a thought.
Before you go any further, I would tack a front on and test the seat functionality. I highly doubt it works with those dimensions so I'd hate to see you have to break apart the box after you finish it.
Thanks, I will test it out Saturday. I can still shave some depth out on the front if I need too. If things get too tight I might have to drop down to the 8" Polk mm. Or look at other shallow mount ones. Maybe jl or Dayton has some also I liked. Going to mount driver as low as possible I think depending on where seat rubs.
after a little trimming box fits with the seat in both positions. if i move it over a little bit to the left away from the hinges it gives it more room. makes the right side bolt notches not needed
with woofer resting on the bottom it is almost flush. with the seat up i think it will rub on the top of the surround especially on excursion.
i might be able to get the 8"mm to fit but it might be easier to get a shallower sub to fit. these drivers are really nice though.
01-18-2016, 07:59 PM
