White 1

I came to my 2017 XLT 2.7L Eco from a 2004 BMW 330xi. It's been quite an adjustment to say the least. The truck has 100 more HP, for example. One thing I can say for sure about the BMW was stepping on the brakes was not a lot different from heaving an anchor out the window. The car stopped and it stopped right quick.

About once a day as I'm coming to a stop at a stop sign or stop light I'll find myself motionless maybe 5 feet past where I'd hoped I'd have stopped. I know this is driver error, because if it wasn't, the spousal unit would be sure to let me know ("The truck is brand new, what's with these brakes, blah blah blah...").

I have a couple questions:
- it's an FX4 with a towing package. Are the brakes uprated in any way?
- it's got the 20" wheels. Are the brakes any different than the stock fitment for the 17" or 18" wheels?
- Can anyone recommend pads which will work with the stock calipers but provide additional stopping power? I don't really care if they get the wheels dusty, I'm used to that from the BMW.

I'm doing my best to change my behavior. But untrainable as I can be, I better give myself some mechanical assist before I find myself 10 feet past the white stripe, or the deer I just hit, or what have you. Thanks, guys.

NotBlake

Compared to my '15 Mustang GT the brakes on these trucks don't bite too hard. Going to a slotted rotor and more aggressive pad would definitely increase stopping power. I think Power Stop makes a kit for these trucks.

dan150

I put on powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and powerstop heavy duty truck/tow pads and the difference is unbelievable.

BlueSpark

Yes, PowerStop makes kits. Drilled, slotted, vented, etc...

MNSportsman

iTrader: (1)

X3 on the PowerStop kit. I recently installed and was surprised how much of a difference rotors and pads could make. Here's a link to my initial writeup:

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/insta...wheels-401573/
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BigDozer66

http://akebonobrakes.com/

UNBROKEN

iTrader: (1)

A drilled/slotted rotor may help with initial bite but after that it’s up to the pads to do the work. Don’t believe the hype from pad mfg’s...most of it is BS.
Unless you move to a bigger rotor to increase brake torque with the oem calipers, upgrade calipers for more clamping force or do a full big brake kit don’t expect miracles....especially for a couple hundred bucks like most of these “upgraded” rotor kits cost. I’m a big proponent of moving to braided stainless hoses though...pedal feel is greatly improved over the stock rubber. Crown Performance sells a full 6 piece kit for $160ish.

Want some proof?

UNBROKEN

iTrader: (1)

Did you measure before and after?
We all like to think spending our hard earned money makes a big difference. Actual testing shows it’s a few feet shorter at best.

White 1

Read the thread. Did you replace the calipers too? You didn't say one way or the other.

BlueSpark

Right. And what difference would a few feet make? That’s, like, the difference between your front bumper and the steering wheel....

Every spare inch of braking distance is valuable, whether it’s through training or equipment.