my 2015 xlt level and build
07-30-2015, 05:37 PM
#1
my 2015 xlt level and build
I thought I would take a moment and share my experience so far with everyone. First off I have a 2015 XLT crew cab 3.5EB 4x4 with the 3.55 rear end. I decided to tune it first. I put on a Stainless Works cat back exhaust and a AFE stage 2 intake. The tune was done on a dyno with a SCT. At first I wasn't that impressed with the tune. I think I was hoping to get more out of it. I know they have been able to get more out of the 13 and 14 EB's. I got 360HP and 427 at the wheels for torque. The more I have driven it the more I am liking it. Also I am averaging about 20 miles per gallon over all and 22-23 on the highway. So better gas mileage and more get up and go, I'll take that.
Next I did the level and tires. I put on the FOX 2.0 front and rear shocks with a 2.25 rear block. I measured 40 inches from ground to fender on the front and 41.5 on the rear. I still wanted a little rake. This was also with the stock wheels and tires. After driving it like that, I can honestly say that it really does ride better than stock. It was just as quiet, just as smooth, and handles the road slightly better. After driving it for about a day and a half I put the wheels and tires on yesterday. I put on 20x10 with a 0 offset Black Rhino Sierra wheels. The tires are 305/55R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2's with the XL rating. I went with the XL because they are lighter and not a 10 ply tire. I thought they should ride better than any of the E rated tires that are 10 ply. and they do, but it is not as good as it was stock. The tires are still larger and harder than stock tires. So naturally I did lose a little in the ride department. I did it that way so that I could tell what change made what difference. Don't get me wrong the ride is actually very very good, just not quite as good as stock. I came from a 2014 Silverado with a 4 inch BDS lift and 295/65R20 Toyo Open Country at2's. The ride and handling is noticeably better than that was.
For those that have questions about the crash bars. I still have them. I used a Porta Power on them, got that idea from another member on here, and spread them as much as I could. I was able to get about half an inch, maybe a little more. My tires fit with absolutely no rubbing anywhere. That is with 0 offset and 20x10 wheels. You cannot tell they were spread at all. Now if I get in an accident everything should perform as it is suppose to. I will get some pics up in a day or so. Also it now measures just a hair under 41 in the front and 42.5 in the rear. I hope this might help some of you. If you have more questions please feel free to ask.
Next I did the level and tires. I put on the FOX 2.0 front and rear shocks with a 2.25 rear block. I measured 40 inches from ground to fender on the front and 41.5 on the rear. I still wanted a little rake. This was also with the stock wheels and tires. After driving it like that, I can honestly say that it really does ride better than stock. It was just as quiet, just as smooth, and handles the road slightly better. After driving it for about a day and a half I put the wheels and tires on yesterday. I put on 20x10 with a 0 offset Black Rhino Sierra wheels. The tires are 305/55R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2's with the XL rating. I went with the XL because they are lighter and not a 10 ply tire. I thought they should ride better than any of the E rated tires that are 10 ply. and they do, but it is not as good as it was stock. The tires are still larger and harder than stock tires. So naturally I did lose a little in the ride department. I did it that way so that I could tell what change made what difference. Don't get me wrong the ride is actually very very good, just not quite as good as stock. I came from a 2014 Silverado with a 4 inch BDS lift and 295/65R20 Toyo Open Country at2's. The ride and handling is noticeably better than that was.
For those that have questions about the crash bars. I still have them. I used a Porta Power on them, got that idea from another member on here, and spread them as much as I could. I was able to get about half an inch, maybe a little more. My tires fit with absolutely no rubbing anywhere. That is with 0 offset and 20x10 wheels. You cannot tell they were spread at all. Now if I get in an accident everything should perform as it is suppose to. I will get some pics up in a day or so. Also it now measures just a hair under 41 in the front and 42.5 in the rear. I hope this might help some of you. If you have more questions please feel free to ask.
07-30-2015, 08:22 PM
#6
Senior Member
3 things I see not right. First if you didn't get longer rear fox shocks for the rear lift, you risk overextending and damaging them when at full droop because they are too short. Second you need to cut all that extra ubolt off. If they are hanging below the rim that is not legal in most states with inspection, because if you get a flat they will dig into the road. Even if they are above rim level you should still cut them off, you are giving up ground clearance and risk catching them on something. Last, those hollow aluminum blocks are awfully light duty for a full size truck. Solid cast iron would be much safer.
07-30-2015, 08:44 PM
#7
To me this just looks hoopty as hell - that can't be good for it?
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07-30-2015, 08:46 PM
#8
3 things I see not right. First if you didn't get longer rear fox shocks for the rear lift, you risk overextending and damaging them when at full droop because they are too short. Second you need to cut all that extra ubolt off. If they are hanging below the rim that is not legal in most states with inspection, because if you get a flat they will dig into the road. Even if they are above rim level you should still cut them off, you are giving up ground clearance and risk catching them on something. Last, those hollow aluminum blocks are awfully light duty for a full size truck. Solid cast iron would be much safer.
Thank you for the advise.
1. The fox shocks are longer. I even called Fox direct and the are set up for one more inch on the rear block. They are longer than stock.
2. The truck is still on the rack in that picture. They were still working on it and had not cut them off yet.
3. The billet aluminum blocks are not hollow they are solid. That is an f150lifts.com sticker you are seeing on the side.
I did a lot of research on everything with Alex at f150lifts, Chris at stage 3 motorsports, and Fox directly.
I also have to say both Alex and Chris at Stage3 were some of the most friendly and helpful people I have ever dealt with. I highly recommend them.
07-30-2015, 08:53 PM
#9
Are you guys really not noticing that the truck is on a rack up in the air. It is 4 feet high and doesn't even have a wheel on it. Everything is extended to full length. This is why I wanted to wait until I had better pics, but that guy was asking for something right away. I wanted to get it all cleaned up and take some good photos.
07-30-2015, 08:55 PM
#10
Are you guys really not noticing that the truck is on a rack up in the air. It is 4 feet high and doesn't even have a wheel on it. Everything is extended to full length. This is why I wanted to wait until I had better pics, but that guy was asking for something right away. I wanted to get it all cleaned up and take some good photos.