Looking for ideas: BoxLink interface plates-->Thule load bars
#1
Flaccid Member
Thread Starter
Looking for ideas: BoxLink interface plates-->Thule load bars
I'm pretty dissatisfied with the BoxLink cleats, as I expressed in this thread about figuring out alternative tie down methods. I know there are some rail-mounted options, those have been covered, and so I don't want to go there. I'm wondering if anyone has come up with a way to secure Thule Aero Bars (or other load bars) right to the interface plates. I think an adapter that accomplishes that would sell pretty well. I might consider cutting up my cleats to figure out how to make it work.
Any other ideas? On the newer cleats with the vertically-oriented holes, you could just cut the load bar to bed width and drop a U-bolt down over the bar into the cleat. But I have the '16 cleats, and I'd rather go directly to the plate somehow. I'll give it some thought.
EDIT: Maybe just have a shop weld the cleats to the bars. It's all aluminum, after all...
EDIT 2: The longest Thule load bar that I know of is 60"... and that's not long enough. I'm not giving up yet, but this will be tougher than I first though.
Any other ideas? On the newer cleats with the vertically-oriented holes, you could just cut the load bar to bed width and drop a U-bolt down over the bar into the cleat. But I have the '16 cleats, and I'd rather go directly to the plate somehow. I'll give it some thought.
EDIT: Maybe just have a shop weld the cleats to the bars. It's all aluminum, after all...
EDIT 2: The longest Thule load bar that I know of is 60"... and that's not long enough. I'm not giving up yet, but this will be tougher than I first though.
Last edited by DeltaNu1142; 03-10-2017 at 09:12 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Tricky part is that the cleats need to be angled to fit into the receiver on the bed wall. If you permanently mount the bar to cleat-things, you'll be able to get one side in but not the other. (Been there, done that)
There seem (to me) to be two requirements for an efficient design to allow attachment of a bar between the cleats (for attaching bike fork mounts): (1) The cleats have to attach to both receivers (see above), and (2) the assembly should be somewhat adjustable to enable placing tension on the bar between the cleats (otherwise, the bar will rattle around).
Think about a three piece solution: 2 x custom box-link style cleats, and an length-adjustable load bar. Install cleats to bed. Attach load bar to both cleats. Expand load bar to place into tension & secure.
I still have a couple Thule load bars, but now they're just used for breaker bars.
My bike mount solution can be found here.
There seem (to me) to be two requirements for an efficient design to allow attachment of a bar between the cleats (for attaching bike fork mounts): (1) The cleats have to attach to both receivers (see above), and (2) the assembly should be somewhat adjustable to enable placing tension on the bar between the cleats (otherwise, the bar will rattle around).
Think about a three piece solution: 2 x custom box-link style cleats, and an length-adjustable load bar. Install cleats to bed. Attach load bar to both cleats. Expand load bar to place into tension & secure.
I still have a couple Thule load bars, but now they're just used for breaker bars.
My bike mount solution can be found here.
Last edited by ttocsmi; 03-10-2017 at 11:36 AM.
#3
Flaccid Member
Thread Starter
Yeah... good considerations.
I've got two Thule Criterium bike mounts on the way, and I'm going to screw that into 2x4s that will be set/screwed into e-track mounts. I'll remove the cleats completely. I was just looking for something more flexible than that. I figured load bars would be a good way to go, but it might end up being 2x4s with L-tracks or other mounting points fastened to them.
I've got two Thule Criterium bike mounts on the way, and I'm going to screw that into 2x4s that will be set/screwed into e-track mounts. I'll remove the cleats completely. I was just looking for something more flexible than that. I figured load bars would be a good way to go, but it might end up being 2x4s with L-tracks or other mounting points fastened to them.
#5
Senior Member
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Carg...son/59149.html
$6ea x 2, plus a 2x4. have fun
or go fancy and get an aluminum adjustable one from u-line. i'm sure you could cut down the 85-96" one if needed.
https://www.uline.com/BL_3888/Load-Bars
$6ea x 2, plus a 2x4. have fun
or go fancy and get an aluminum adjustable one from u-line. i'm sure you could cut down the 85-96" one if needed.
https://www.uline.com/BL_3888/Load-Bars
Last edited by j.digiacomo; 03-10-2017 at 02:55 PM.
#6
Flaccid Member
Thread Starter
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by DeltaNu1142
Yes:
The E-Track option opens up a world of options.
Also, a tip:
Get some pipe foam insulation and that has a wall thickness of 1/2". Cut it to size and stick it in between the bed and the box link face. This will keep the E-track accessories from rattling. 👌ðŸ¼
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#8
Flaccid Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, I saw that in the other thread. I'll probably give it a try.
#9
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Thread Starter
#10
Senior Member
As I'm wondering how to execute my idea I'd thought I would do a search to see if anyone else had it first. I wasn't going to get the boxlink tire downs because I at first thought I could come up with something on my own. After looking into it the interface plates are the easiest way to attach to the bed and the cleats will get far enough away to clear the side panels. The cleats are predrilled with what looks to be 1/4" holes. I do not have them in hand yet so you can verify. Attaching them to the bed wall and bolting 7/8" deep aluminum uni-strut will give flexibility to attach almost anything. The uni-strut can be found at any good electrical supply house.
For full disclosure, I got the idea from Nissan. On the Frontier and Titan they have a bed tie down system that has the same dimensions as uni-strut so you can use their cleats which will slide and lock in place easily. Or you could make your own with eyebolts.
For full disclosure, I got the idea from Nissan. On the Frontier and Titan they have a bed tie down system that has the same dimensions as uni-strut so you can use their cleats which will slide and lock in place easily. Or you could make your own with eyebolts.