zhigaag

I've searched and searched and cant find a solid reason as to why some leveling kit/spacer installs damage the actuator other than the fact that some kits direct you to remove the axle from the actuator. Anyone know a common reason as to why the actuator is seemingly frequently damaged on the 2015s during a leveling kit install? Im planning my leveling kit install and wondered if removing the LCA bolts where they attach to the frame was a better way to avoid damaging the actuator or removing the 6 or so bolts from the inner end of axle vs the hub end would achieve the same result of gaining the clearance required. Thanks in advance.

uood8

Because they are fragile, if you pull the cv's make sure you have a vacuum pump because technically the actuators are suppose to be under vacuum before you put the axle back in.

Harbor freight has a cheap one that will hold vacuum which i used to install my cv's back in. Worked like a charm.

I guess i should tell you the purpose for holding vacuum...the outer ring gets sucked in allowing the cv shaft to enter completely so you can get the axle nut on. Without the vacuum you have to line up the cv and the actuator teeth which is a pita. Once the axle nut is in you can rotate the hub and release the pressure while rotating. this will get everything in sync.

People tend to push up on the lower control arm and push the cv in at the same time which hits the plastic actuator causing it to break.

You can see here how thin the plastic ring is....picture courtesy of me!

FFPM03

I did not loosen the lower control arm bolts or remove the axle to install my 2" level. You don't have to unless maybe if you go with more of a lift up front.

goblue90

The dealership that installed my leveling kit messed up my IWEs. They first tried to attribute the noise to "good 'ol BFG tire noise". During our test ride I told them to roll down the windows and tell me if the "tire noise" got louder... It didn't. They switched from 2wd to 4wd and the noise went away and the service manager said it's the IWE... Most likely the driver's side. He ordered a new IWE and told me it'd be okay driving around with the grinding noise until I got it replaced. I brought it in a couple days later to get the drivers side IWE replaced but apparently the noise was still there, and they diagnosed the issue as extra play in the drivers side half shaft (even sent me a picture of the "extreme angle at full drop" while the truck was on the lift... Seriously?). They kept the truck over night, replaced the half shaft and the noise was still there, then they got smart and called Ford Tech. A different mechanic unplugged the vacuum line at the solenoid and (drum roll please)... the noise went away. They also learned that the max torque on the axle nut was only 30 lbft. The manager said they've always taken impact guns to the nuts and have never had an issue. Anyway, the manager orders 2 more IWEs and schedules me for an appointment to bring the truck back in a couple days. I printed out instructions from Helm on how to replace the IWEs and gave it to the service manager, highlighting the torque values and the need to add vacuum to the IWEs during installation. I get a call later in morning that everything is fixed and that they didn't realize they had to add vacuum to the IWE upon installation. Here's the kicker.... The tech didn't add vacuum to them, he just "splined them up" during installation. I know this because my dash cam recorded him admitting this to the service manager that he just splined them up and that the passenger side IWE was the one that was messed up. What I don't understand is that the two knew about my dash cam and that it recorded everything ... I haven't called the service manager out for lying to my face that they added vacuum to it when they really didn't. And all I got out of all of their incompetence was an apology and coupon for a free oil change. HAHAHA. I'm never bringing my truck back there. I bought the service manual and will plan on doing most of the maintenance myself.... Even bought new IWEs from tasca just in case the ones the dealership installed crap out.

uood8

I've lifted many trucks and lowered many cars and I could not get the shock/spring out without loosening the lca bolts. So kudos to you, and I never would have been able to get it back in once the spacer was on.

FFPM03

Don't get me wrong it was a 2 person job to get the strut out and in, and I removed the bolts on the bottom before reinstalling. If I hadn't done that there's probably no way I would have gotten it back in.

kendive

I talked to my local dealer and they won't even install a level kit at all. I guess they don't have the confidence to do it without messing it up.

I am looking at this kit. I would think it would be easier to do a self install because you can put the front coil overs in and leave them at stock level. Then I would take somewhere for an alignment give them the spanner wrench have them lift it 2" and then do the alignment.

http://www.stage3motorsports.com/FOX...uspension.html

argrin

Nearly identical issue when I had my dealer install front Bilsteins and tires. Ended up needing IWEs for both sides. That is exactly why I had the dealer install them, so any problems with the install they would take care of under warranty.

Amadeus1689

So did they cover it?
Bilsteins for all 4 are in my future.

jailhousef150

You might get away with it...that looks like just about what ya need. I'll show you where I had to trim, in case ya need to.


















And some better pics of my offset. Hope this helps