Lemon Law - Door Latch Issue
02-19-2018, 06:44 PM
#41
I have a 2016 F150 built Feb 2016 and not one issue. I live in Maine even with freezing rain, snow storms, sleet, ice, temps as cold as -30. I have never once had an issue. I will say that i do not go through automatic car washes. If it does get above freezing maybe two or three times a winter i will wash my truck with my pressure washer at home but i take care not to blast the window areas or door locks. But i've never had any door lock problems.
02-19-2018, 08:46 PM
#42
Count yourself lucky. Lived in MA I promise my weather is way less extreme and yes I have the problem. I have hot water at home hand wash car always. Generally skip washing vehicle when bad weather is near. Sadly my 06 Accord and every other car has always worked in this environment. Even traveling the passes and skiing. My 2016 F150 not so much.
Those of you that it works we are extremely happy for you. Guess what there are tons of us that it is an issue. When I had mine in for the TSB I was ahead of the rush, there were over 20 cases. By the time I picked mine up the number was over 100 officially waiting parts. Believe me there are many of us suffering. This is very common and well known.
Those of you that it works we are extremely happy for you. Guess what there are tons of us that it is an issue. When I had mine in for the TSB I was ahead of the rush, there were over 20 cases. By the time I picked mine up the number was over 100 officially waiting parts. Believe me there are many of us suffering. This is very common and well known.
02-20-2018, 11:18 PM
#45
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
A. I have not had this problem, but then again we barely ever see freezing temps where I am and I'm not in the cold wet that much if ever.
B. I have lemon'd a Toyota Tacoma (terrible trucks, don't waste your money on one ever) for drivetrain issues (vibration & failure to hold gears mostly, but a few other probs too). I had 9 dealer warranty visits in 12 months, 6 for the same problem.
Here are some notes:
1. If your state offers arbitration, do this. Arbitration is normally only binding to the manufacturer, so if the arbitrator finds for them, not you, then you can still pursue legal lemon process. Arbitration is fast.
2. you're due back normally every penny you paid + acquisition expenses, e.g. registration for year 1. Normally you'll have to pay for your usage of the vehicle up until the problem first occurred. (In my case it was at 42 miles, so they gave me 100% of my money back)
2A. If you pursue lemon law, then with an attorney you an also pursue damages and legal fees.
3. If you win Lemon Law or Arbitration, you can still go to Small Claims Court to recover more damages, e.g. year 2 registration, time, expenses, etc.
4. If arbitrating and you win, the manufacturer's rep will give you extra paperwork... DO NOT sign the secondary paper work that says you're finished pursuing the matter and case closed. You don't have to sign that crap, keep your options open and the manufacturer nervous. DO NOT sign the shut up agreement, you're most likely (at least in my state) not required to. You didn't make a deal, it wasn't a negotiation, it's a forced buy back.
5. Have all your ducks in a row, copies of service orders, phone call records, emails, videos, line it all up and make it appear very well organized.
B. I have lemon'd a Toyota Tacoma (terrible trucks, don't waste your money on one ever) for drivetrain issues (vibration & failure to hold gears mostly, but a few other probs too). I had 9 dealer warranty visits in 12 months, 6 for the same problem.
Here are some notes:
1. If your state offers arbitration, do this. Arbitration is normally only binding to the manufacturer, so if the arbitrator finds for them, not you, then you can still pursue legal lemon process. Arbitration is fast.
2. you're due back normally every penny you paid + acquisition expenses, e.g. registration for year 1. Normally you'll have to pay for your usage of the vehicle up until the problem first occurred. (In my case it was at 42 miles, so they gave me 100% of my money back)
2A. If you pursue lemon law, then with an attorney you an also pursue damages and legal fees.
3. If you win Lemon Law or Arbitration, you can still go to Small Claims Court to recover more damages, e.g. year 2 registration, time, expenses, etc.
4. If arbitrating and you win, the manufacturer's rep will give you extra paperwork... DO NOT sign the secondary paper work that says you're finished pursuing the matter and case closed. You don't have to sign that crap, keep your options open and the manufacturer nervous. DO NOT sign the shut up agreement, you're most likely (at least in my state) not required to. You didn't make a deal, it wasn't a negotiation, it's a forced buy back.
5. Have all your ducks in a row, copies of service orders, phone call records, emails, videos, line it all up and make it appear very well organized.
Last edited by MotorsportsAustin; 02-20-2018 at 11:21 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by MotorsportsAustin:
BadBoy4fun_wa (02-21-2018),
Scott91370 (02-21-2018)
02-21-2018, 11:02 AM
#46
My 2016 had this issue, driver door only, happened only once last year.
My fault, washed my truck and thought it would be dry before it froze that night.
It did not dry out.
I live in Alberta, 'northern' Canada, never had it happen since.
Pro tip: Don't wash vehicles in sub zero temps and always brush snow off your vehicle so it doesn't melt and drain down into door latch.
My fault, washed my truck and thought it would be dry before it froze that night.
It did not dry out.
I live in Alberta, 'northern' Canada, never had it happen since.
Pro tip: Don't wash vehicles in sub zero temps and always brush snow off your vehicle so it doesn't melt and drain down into door latch.
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Ricktwuhk (02-22-2018)
02-21-2018, 06:39 PM
#47
Just starting with Ford as it is how I must do it in my state. Supposedly Ford says my vehicle qualifies for buy back!! We will see their offer as my truck is at 6500 miles but initially went in with probably 2k miles and just a few months old.
The hard question is do I roll the dice and hope I get a lucky one.
The hard question is do I roll the dice and hope I get a lucky one.
02-22-2018, 05:32 AM
#48
I'm in the process for the buyback.
I had this problem with 3 out of four doors. My drivers side front only hung up a little when closing. My truck did not fall under the recall. Doors wouldn't open and sometimes they wouldn't latch. The dealer greased all the cables and gave it back, this was per Fords Hotline. Hotline took 5 days to respond to the dealer. I get my truck back and experienced the same issue. The dealer replaced one door latch that wasn't backordered(rear passenger). They then tested the other doors the next day, they wouldn't latch. Another request goes to hotline. Ford wouldn't authorize them to replace the other latches at this time, nor were they available to order. I couldn't believe it, they gave up on my truck. I have the print out from hotline that says no further recommendations for repair at this time. At this time fird approved to buyback, which I'm currently about a week in to the process. I started complaining about the issue when it first happened 1/25/2018 to Fords consumer line to initiate the process.
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BadBoy4fun_wa (02-26-2018)
11-23-2019, 11:28 AM
#49
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Door Latch
The TSB fix DOES NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM!!
I had the locks "fixed" last winter on my 2016 super crew cab. This winter, my driver's side door has repeatedly refused to close in cold weather.
I brought it back to the dealer last weekend. They claimed to have "dried out the locks". What I think they actually did was drive my truck around with the heat on, then parked it inside a heated garage for the day. In any event, the locks were working when I took the truck back.
This morning (it was below zero Fahrenheit), my driver's side door wouldn't close again. The truck has been in snow, but no rain or car wash. After about 45 minutes of running the heat at full blast with the driver's side door cracked open, the lock has thawed enough to close the door.
My dealer told me that they have nothing they can do for repair, because the TSB fix has already been done. The dealer told me that they have informed Ford that the problem is still not fixed.
The dealer also told me that they are SEEING THE PROBLEM ON BRAND NEW 2018 F150 MODELS, so don't think trading your truck in for a newer one will fix the problem. I've been contemplating going to my dealer to see if I can find an even swap for a Chevy. (The same owner of my Ford dealership owns a Chevy dealership) As much as I hate GM, I hate driving down the highway with my driver's side door open more.
I had the locks "fixed" last winter on my 2016 super crew cab. This winter, my driver's side door has repeatedly refused to close in cold weather.
I brought it back to the dealer last weekend. They claimed to have "dried out the locks". What I think they actually did was drive my truck around with the heat on, then parked it inside a heated garage for the day. In any event, the locks were working when I took the truck back.
This morning (it was below zero Fahrenheit), my driver's side door wouldn't close again. The truck has been in snow, but no rain or car wash. After about 45 minutes of running the heat at full blast with the driver's side door cracked open, the lock has thawed enough to close the door.
My dealer told me that they have nothing they can do for repair, because the TSB fix has already been done. The dealer told me that they have informed Ford that the problem is still not fixed.
The dealer also told me that they are SEEING THE PROBLEM ON BRAND NEW 2018 F150 MODELS, so don't think trading your truck in for a newer one will fix the problem. I've been contemplating going to my dealer to see if I can find an even swap for a Chevy. (The same owner of my Ford dealership owns a Chevy dealership) As much as I hate GM, I hate driving down the highway with my driver's side door open more.