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Just tell us your under invoice price paid.

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Old 11-12-2016, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kutch98
11K off is respectable. A lot just depends on what you bring to the table as far as trade and credit score. I don't have a great score but got a good interest rate, 2nd lowest I've ever had on a vehicle.
Trade in and credit score should have nothing at all to do with sales price. If they do, you're doing it wrong.
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Old 11-12-2016, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ginnjuice
Trade in and credit score should have nothing at all to do with sales price. If they do, you're doing it wrong.
Exactly what I was thinking, lol. If you're factoring in your trade as the price you ended up paying... you're getting screwed really hard.
Old 11-12-2016, 02:52 PM
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Negotiate the price of the truck as if you have no trade in or money down.
Old 11-12-2016, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by zukmeister
Exactly what I was thinking, lol. If you're factoring in your trade as the price you ended up paying... you're getting screwed really hard.
Depends on perspective. The bottom line is all that matters. How you get there doesn't.
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Old 11-12-2016, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jstrain14
Any feedback on the below deal? It is for a 2016 Lariat SCREW 502A plus 5.0, 3.73 e-locker, moonroof, trailer tow, tailgate step, 20" wheels, 36 gal. tank, sport appearance package.

Dealer has been transparent that they'll be making $500, which seems reasonable.

it's a good deal - if you love the truck, i'd pull the trigger in a heart beat
Old 11-12-2016, 04:02 PM
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Default 2016 Ford F-150 XLT

Just bought a 2016 Ford F-150 XLT 2.7L EcoBoost from San Antonio dealership

MRSP $42,675
- XLT, 2.7L EcoBoost, 302a package, Central Console, and sports appearance pkg (see pic below)

My final price before TTL - $30,996
My final price with TTL - $33,284 ($1937 taxes $350 other doc fees)

No trade in. Probably could have gotten lower with some extra discounts like owner loyalty ($1000) and more haggling but oh well.

My Savings off of MRSP (42,675-30,996) = $11,679

They initially tried to add on an extra $2000 for tinted windows, nitrogen in tires which obviously is a bunch of crap and then ended up waiving all of that.

Financed with USAA at 1.87% for 60 months

On the San Antonio dealership I went with (McCombs Ford) website they advertise the model I went with for $30,753 (link) which is about $240 cheaper then what I paid but I didn't qualify for the Owner Loyalty bonus ($1000) or the ($500 ford financing bonus). I did qualify for the $500 military bonus however. I was initially thinking of using the ford financing bonus but they wanted to charge me like 6% APR, so it was smarter to go with USAA at 1.87%. Initially USAA approved me for 3% but navy federal quoted me at 2.39% so I called up USAA and asked them to beat Navy Federal and they said they would at 2.37% and then they have a 0.50% additional discount if that dealership is on their Car Buying Dealership list so it ended up being 2.37-0.50 = 1.87%



My Window Ticket

Last edited by rwhr; 11-12-2016 at 04:20 PM.
Old 11-12-2016, 04:09 PM
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great deal RWHR!
Old 11-12-2016, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrappy Doo
Depends on perspective. The bottom line is all that matters. How you get there doesn't.
I'm an Algebra teacher, if you don't show your work and do it correctly, you don't get credit for guessing the right answer.
Old 11-12-2016, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by k.b.
I'm an Algebra teacher, if you don't show your work and do it correctly, you don't get credit for guessing the right answer.
I laughed way too hard at this.

Old 11-12-2016, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrappy Doo
Depends on perspective. The bottom line is all that matters. How you get there doesn't.
Your bottom line price is still the net of your expected sales price and your expected trade in value, without an idea of what you expect for each, how would you set that bottom line?


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