The way everyone quotes prices paid is so uninformative. Here's the reason why:

OTD prices are useless because it includes Doc Fees which can range from $75 here in NY to $799 (that I've seen in other states like FL). So there's a big discrepancy there. Some of us hard bargainers even negotiate the price better to completely negate the Doc Fee which a Dealiar cannot actually remove when it's pre-printed on their forms but will just take it out from the Sales Price line item on a Sales Agreement. Also, OTD's include a whole bunch of different Sales Tax rates which muddies up the actual true discount aspect from one persons deal to another's.

Rebates/Incentives are all different by region/zip code, so unless that is shown in it's exact amount separately then nobody here will have a real clue what the actual negotiated Dealiar discount truly is.

Trade-ins are being included but nobody mentions the amounts, so again, nobody here can truly see what the true Dealiar Discount was as a percentage the Dealiar was willing to deduct.

The best way to do this is first of all, separate the Delivery charge from the TOTAL MSRP (Window Sticker - Blue Box #)

MSRP $50,000.00 - $1,295.00 (Destination charge)=$48,705.00
This is where you've combined any possible Dealiar costs which have markups AND any discounts applied as a deduction for a package or particular option. Those are your Retail and Dealiar costs (Invoice) totals.

Now if the Dealiar shows a discount figure of $45,000.00, which CANNOT include any rebates/incentives/special offers nor having to add destination fees to it, then you can simply divide the difference to figure out the Actual Percentage Discount the Dealiar is giving up from their pocket (profit margins). This is what member Buyers really need to know.

Example: (as per figures above)

$48,705.00 - $45,000.00 = $3,705 Dealiar $$$ discount

$3705.00 divided by $48,705.00 = .0760 (.0760 X 100 = 7.6%) Dealiar % discount

Now a good deal is when you can get the True Dealiar Discount to .10 - .13 (10 -13%) off the MSRP - Delivery Charge (don't forget this - you'll add it back later) which is known as Suggested Dealiar Retail Price. However, keep in mind that many areas throughout the US will not come close to getting these high discount percentages. Reading through this thread carefully will give you an idea what others have received in True Dealiar Discounts for the area you're shopping your truck.

So let's figure that out!

$48,705.00 X .11 = $5,357.55 - This is your new negotiation target for a real good deal.

Let's put the total deal back together like a neat puzzle.

$50,000.00 MSRP (each different)(Window Sticker Blue Box - includes Destination charge)
$ -5,357.55 Your new Dealiar discount goal to get off the price.
$ -5,000.00 Incentives - this figure will differ for many of us

$39,642.45 Your new awesome deal!

That second figure ($5357.55) is the only key figure that let's anyone following this thread know how much of a deal the Sales Manager decided to give you.

Let's figure it out again!

$50,000.00 (MSRP) - $1,295.00 (Destination charge - remember?) = $48,705.00

$5357.55 (amount you want discounted - hint: 11%) divided by $48,705.00 = .11 (11%)

All the rest of the figures such as Incentives, Doc fee (absurd - negotiate this down in your discount), TTL, etc....

I'm in the process of negotiating with 8 Dealiars in a 100 mile radius. One XLT is a 2016 and the Dealiar will not go more than 11.25%. This is not a bargain at all because the vehicle is already an extra year old and will take even more of a value hit as soon as the 2018's roll out. I'm passing and sticking with the 2017's which you can get to the same price if you negotiate hard. The only small savings on a leftover is the $500.00 or so increase to the new model year. Leftovers have Dealiars somewhat underwater because of all the interest they keep paying on it the whole time and only to be bailed out to a certain degree by the Manufacturer. Just like when we had to bail out the Car Manufacturers - did we forget about this? I tried shopping a leftover a long while ago and you really don't save alot of money at all vs the depreciation hit you take on immediately. It's only a decent savings if you plan to run the truck into the ground - then who cares about the value - unless you total it, then good luck seeing what the insurance will pay.