chrish4ku

I went through 2 months of Ford hell and my issue is gone finally, but both IWEs needed replacement, as well as parts of the transfer case because the IWE failure caused metal shavings in the transfer case, or maybe not, but there were shavings in there - Dealer also replaced both front hubs/vac lines/check valve. Not sure how both can fail, other than the lift kit the prior dude installed in front. Mechanic showed me the old Vac hub he pulled out and said the seal was leaking (looks like the above photo). Also had noise in the cats - so they replaced those. If I get real lucky, I'll have a new truck piece by piece, but then this thread could get really long.....

So - for the sake of others based on my unwanted learnings...
- Sounds like you are driving on a metal grate bridge in 2H but 4H is silent? Hub engagement issue
- Sounds like metal clinking on front end? Hub engagement issue
- Rough or hard 2H - 4H shift? Transfer case

As I look at these vacuum lines controlling the whole front hub thing and the way they are connected to the hubs it makes me wonder how tough they are long term. What I found is that there are a few components that likely will cause the hub engagement failure. So after reading this whole thread...you guys are great.

Dealer's comments: My new responses to them.
1. The hub itself could have bad seal, or bad internal part (Hmmmm,maybe that crappy whitish plastic piece???)
2. The Vac lines themselves are failing (Yea, they crack over time, pal)
3. The check valve isnt working....(DUUUHHH!)
4. The IWE system isn't holding (Mmmmmm, like when my hoover bag gets full??)
5. Controller/solenoid (geeze it don't like too many hot/cold weather cycles, does it??)

Dealer admitted the vehicle should have not been sold as CPO, and the mechanic claimed he didn't hear any noises when he certified the truck (ya right).

So for now, I'm loving it - put new KO2's on, got me a curved LED light bar, and pray to baby Jesus and grown up Jesus this winter doesn't cause any grinchy issues...


KO2s

Bear Valley Mountain

Led Fogs, and light bar

upontheridge

What should the vacuum pressure be coming into the valve on the IWE system from the vehicle vacuum system. While waiting on my replacement AL3Z-19A563-A valve to arrive I thought I would do some vacuum pressure testing. I put a vacuum gauge on the line coming in to the valve from the vehicle vacuum system. When i start the engine I get about 16" of pressure. When I rev the engine pressure stays at 16" but then when I let of the gas after reving engine pressure jumps to 24" and then stays at that level until I turn off the vehicle. I put my vacuum pump on the line to the IWE's and pump it up to 25". Drove the truck around the block making sure to turn wheels back and forth etc, did not hear any grinding noise and pressure stayed at 25". I had the original electric vacuum pump replaced by dealer under the recall 15N05 a couple years ago. Wondering if the replaced vacuum pump is failing with the pressure jumping from 16" at idle to 24" after a rev and let off of the gas. Is the let off of the gas creating some sort of back pressure on the vacuum system. I would think an electric vacuum pump would put out consistent pressure.

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Had to read that a few times, vacuum, and pressure, are two different things, unless you want to be awfully technical.
16" at idle doesn't sound bad. When you goose the engine, vacuum should fall off. When you let off the throttle, vacuum will increase, on naturally aspirated engines, yes it could go much higher than the 16" at idle. Why it hung up at 24", I don't know. I'm not sure just how that electric vacuum pump operates. Hey, on the GenII 3.5, there is no vacuum pump per se.
Maybe someone that knows more about that me will say something.
What year, and which engine do you have?

At any rate, it sounds like your system where you hooked the handpump, and down to your IWEs, is tight. That's good news. IIRC, the TSB states to pump up the vacuum only to 20" though.

upontheridge

Thanks for your reply. I have a 2012 F150 with the 3.5L Ecoboost. Sorry for the confusion on vacuum and pressure. Wasn't sure what to call the number on the vacuum gauge!!!!. When I goose the engine vacuum does not fall but it does increase and then stays at the increased level. Just received the new valve and installed. Will take it for a drive in a bit. Watched a FordtechMakuloco video on the Electric Vacuum Pump and plan to take off the headlight to get to that and see what it looks like.

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like that valve is all you need, hopefully. Hey, maybe start a thread relating to that vacuum pump if you have to get into it?

GallonsPerMile

So I was having the clunking sounds from my driver side, then I replaced the Check valve with the updated design. The problem is about 80% better and now the sounds only happen a couple times a week vs every day. I'm also having a weird resistance when I turn the steering wheel (it comes and goes). Do yall believe the resistance is a result of the IWEs?

BTW: The dealer has already replaced my transfer case citing metal shavings.

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have something going on in there. The IWE grinding sounds like marbles rolling around in a coffee can, not a clunk. Could be a CV joint?
Yes on the steering, mine feels sluggish this time of year when the temps are down and the system tells the IWEs to lock in to warm up the diff. Goes away after a couple miles.

GallonsPerMile

Thanks for the reply, John! I haven't thought of the CV so something ill point at with my upcoming oil change. I should clarify that the sound happens either when I'm braking to a stop or moving 15mph or slower. Before I swapped the check valve it was happing all the time, which is why it think it could be the IWEs. I'm looking for input from the experience on this board before I tackle the dealer again, the good news is they are willing to help. Like I said in the previous post they replaced the Transfer case because they thought that it was the issue and that it wasn't shifting unless the truck moved.

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome. I see you have a Lariat. Just a thought, try driving around in 4A, you won't hurt anything even on dry pavement. Then see if the noise disappears. That will rule out the IWEs since they will be engaged. I'm thinking you've got something else, possibly the steering rack? I'm grabbing at straws right now.

DraKhen99

My truck is at the dealer now. I drove it up there last Friday and the shop foreman rode with me. He said they'd check out the IWEs and other items related to the TSB posted earlier (18-2273). He felt the vibration in the floorboards, and is pretty sure the front diff needs to be rebuilt.

I dropped it off this morning, and they say they'll have it back to me by Friday. In the mean time, they sent me to Enterprise to get a loaner, and they gave me a 2018 F-150 Screw XLT w/5.0 to drive, so I get to experience the 10-speed and 5.0 for the first time. So far it's pretty good, and easy on gas (21.2 MPG).

-John