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Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2015 Screw Lariat, and at low speeds (10-18 mph), I'm noticing what feels like rubbing coming from the front. If I throw it into 4H, it goes away, but can be there at 2A with the lower speeds. At about 25 mph, I notice it goes away. I'm thinking for trying the check valve as it sounds from this thread that I might be chasing this leak, but wanted to know if the OTC parts from Autozone or Advance (Dorman check valves) are the same as the OEM. Just trying to get ahead of this a bit. Thanks for any help on this.
Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2015 Screw Lariat, and at low speeds (10-18 mph), I'm noticing what feels like rubbing coming from the front. If I throw it into 4H, it goes away, but can be there at 2A with the lower speeds. At about 25 mph, I notice it goes away. I'm thinking for trying the check valve as it sounds from this thread that I might be chasing this leak, but wanted to know if the OTC parts from Autozone or Advance (Dorman check valves) are the same as the OEM. Just trying to get ahead of this a bit. Thanks for any help on this.
Just grab one from Amazon in the multiple links posted above.
So,
I've had my truck back for a little while. They did actually replace the entire check valve line assembly vs just the check valve. (Was only something like $10 for the hose assembly with check valve).
I noticed some power restored, and gas mileage has been restored as well.
Have not heard the noise at all since the replacement either.
Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2015 Screw Lariat, and at low speeds (10-18 mph), I'm noticing what feels like rubbing coming from the front. If I throw it into 4H, it goes away, but can be there at 2A with the lower speeds. At about 25 mph, I notice it goes away. I'm thinking for trying the check valve as it sounds from this thread that I might be chasing this leak, but wanted to know if the OTC parts from Autozone or Advance (Dorman check valves) are the same as the OEM. Just trying to get ahead of this a bit. Thanks for any help on this.
Ya, don't bother with the OEM valve. Do the YG360 thing. The black end is slightly larger than the OEM one, but you should have no trouble installing it. Another member and I were talking about the difference, and sorta thought the flapper inside the valve "might" be a different material than the OEM.
Why replace with OEM from OEM, when they are known to fail? Bad thing about the failure, is it's intermittent.
Here's something interesting, another member found this, and it hasn't been verified if it's just for the 13th gen, but interesting nonetheless. Post #37.
Same issue here.... 45K miles. I replaced the check valve first and it didn't help. I then ordered the solenoid which came with a new check valve and I thought that solved it but I noticed today the grinding and vibration is still there. I just ordered a vacuum pump to see if the system holds pressure but I have a feeling it's going to need hubs. Is a bad IWE hub supposed to be covered under the 60K powertrain warranty? If not, I'll just do it myself. It's almost not worth the frustration of trying to explain to the dealer but the cost isn't just a few bucks for new hubs.
Just dropped mine off at the dealer. 39k on it. Hubs and labour covered by dealer. Told them I was getting the noise on drivers side. Service guy says they are replacing both sides, no questions asked.
03-29-2018, 10:09 AM
