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IWE issues (vacuum or front hub?) on brand new 2017 F150

Old 11-15-2018, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by elptxjc
It's a link for a 103-page build man. Don't have 10 hours to spare looking for it. Ha ha. Will call Tasca and ask them; hopefully they'll know. Thanks anyway.
LOL, no no, not the link to my build in my sig. The link to Amazon in my reply.
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Blue2016XL (11-15-2018)
Old 11-15-2018, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by elptxjc
It's a link for a 103-page build man. Don't have 10 hours to spare looking for it. Ha ha. Will call Tasca and ask them; hopefully they'll know. Thanks anyway.

EDIT: Just hung up with Tasca, and they show a backorder date until Nov 30. Need to call them then to see if backorder is lifted. Hope my truck doesn't grind in the mean time. The other issue is people who switched to 4A reported constant use of 4A ruined the front differential. So if your truck grinds and you don't have a replacement valve (none available right now), you have 2 choices: ruin the IWEs, or ruin the front diff. Nice choice. Ha ha. Guess it's better to ruin the IWEs and let the damn thing grind, no? Hope I never have to choose, but want to know what's the least damaging option. Thanks gang.
Don’t know what link you clicked on but, I clicked on the one that goes to Amazon and it takes me right to the one John bought.
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Old 11-15-2018, 08:44 PM
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Link to YG360 valve on amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/Motorcraft-...iglink20295-20

It's less than $10, in stock, and ships free if you have prime (ships and sold by Amazon). Reporting delivery on Saturday for me, if ordered in the next 3.5hrs.

It is a great first step in debugging these damn IWE's.
Old 11-15-2018, 10:41 PM
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I was able to get this part (FL3Z-7A784-A) from my local dealer which includes the check valve and hoses. Only part that isnt on national backorder and should be the updated valve.
Old 11-16-2018, 01:05 AM
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Good find. Couldn't see the part number of the valve and tube, but doesn't seem to be the new one. At least it's something. I noticed one vacuum tube is wider than the other. Wonder if the Amazon YG-360 is the same or not. Somebody mentioned one side was larger than the other, but my truck is the same. The better question is if the YG valve is even wider than the factory valve or not. If it's the same, then I'd probably order the YG, since I don't need all that other crap. My second question is which is a better valve; the YG or the one linked above with all the other crap. Thx.
Old 11-26-2018, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by elptxjc
Good find. Couldn't see the part number of the valve and tube, but doesn't seem to be the new one. At least it's something. I noticed one vacuum tube is wider than the other. Wonder if the Amazon YG-360 is the same or not. Somebody mentioned one side was larger than the other, but my truck is the same. The better question is if the YG valve is even wider than the factory valve or not. If it's the same, then I'd probably order the YG, since I don't need all that other crap. My second question is which is a better valve; the YG or the one linked above with all the other crap. Thx.
To be honest I'm not sure. The part number ended up including the check valve, hoses, solenoid, and vacuum reservoir all for $25. It came as a whole assembley .

Fixed my issue thankfully. I have a 6" lift on Coilovers so warranty was out the window. I ended up replacing both Hub actuators (which were both shot) and the issue with grinding was still there. To my surprise the part number came back as a whole assembly and ended up fixing the issue. Don't know what actually fixed it but it's fixed.

This is what (FL3Z-7A784-A) gets you.


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Old 12-05-2018, 05:07 PM
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I just bought my truck used, its a 2015 F150 Platinum. After having it for about 1.5 months I started hearing a grinding noise coming from the front drivers side wheel. It seemed to happened after I drove the truck for a few miles then slowed way down (like pulling into a parking spot). Confirmed like a lot of others hear that the noise stopped with I switch to 4WD. I have read this thread along with several other videos and post. What I have done;

I started by replacing the check valve, then added a second in line. Thought I hand the problem fixed however it happens so intermittently I can never be sure. Since it came back I replaced the solenoid, again grinding came back. Next I hooked a vacuum pump to the actuators and found they seem to hold vacuum. The checked both check valves by blowing slight amount of air into them, they checked out OK. Then I unhooked the solenoid and found it is receiving vacuum from the motor. I became frustrated enough to take it to the dealer, but I'm fearful that they will not be able to make the truck make the noise so they will say nothings wrong. I'm taking the truck in tomorrow and will let you guys know what they say. In the mean time, if anyone else has some recommendation please feel free to let me know. I am getting close to just replacing the hoses on my own.
Thanks!
Old 12-05-2018, 05:17 PM
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Sounds like you replaced everything but the hoses, did you pull a vacuum on them? If there is a crack, sometimes by turning the crack will open up, while driving straight ahead, it might seal. If you go back and pull vacuum on them, wiggle things around.

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Old 12-05-2018, 05:26 PM
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Old 12-05-2018, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by johnday
Sounds like you replaced everything but the hoses, did you pull a vacuum on them? If there is a crack, sometimes by turning the crack will open up, while driving straight ahead, it might seal. If you go back and pull vacuum on them, wiggle things around.
I did I pulled them from the solenoid and put vacuum on both hoses, one held vacuum and the other would sometimes slightly loose vacuum. Question is which of the lines goes to the intake and which go down to the actuators (top or bottom)? I would think the if the line that lost a small amount of vacuum was going to the actuators then there is my problem (accept now I have to find a slow leak somewhere).

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