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I had a set of factory fender flares given to me that are already painted to match my truck (tuxedo black). I've read a bunch of threads where many people have cut the tabs off and used double sided tape to hold them on. I was just wondering if anyone has actually drilled holes in their truck to mount them like factory? I know it sounds scary, but that's how I'd like to do it on my truck. If someone's done it and has a template or any tips, that would be great.
I installed these (aftermarket ) by drilling. Simply positioned them and secured them in place with masking tape. Marked the hole positions with a grease pencil. Drilled the holes with a small bit to establish pilot holes then drilled using the appropriate bit size. It was easy.
Last edited by Orangeoval; 10-18-2018 at 01:41 AM.
I had a set of factory fender flares given to me that are already painted to match my truck (tuxedo black). I've read a bunch of threads where many people have cut the tabs off and used double sided tape to hold them on. I was just wondering if anyone has actually drilled holes in their truck to mount them like factory? I know it sounds scary, but that's how I'd like to do it on my truck. If someone's done it and has a template or any tips, that would be great.
Not many people have done it. I've seen one person that did it and had success. I just cut the black inserts down flush and taped it on. I did however drill on the inside lip of the fender. Also I had to add an extra screw for my passenger rear fender as the front gap was just too big for my liking. All good now. If I had to do over again I would call around to local body shops and see, one how much it would cost for them to do, and two if it is too much I'd ask how they go about lining up the holes.
I pretty much followed this guys routine including the clamps over night.
I tried the 3M VHB tape and it didn't work very well for me even with all the prepping I did to the paint. I ended up using GE Type 2 silicone adhesive (clear) for mounting and using clamps during the curing process. So far so good. I did have to drill for the push pins inside the fender lips just like the factory.
.I drilled and used body/trim buttons, ClipsFasteners Used a right angle drill and didn't remove the wheels. They have been on since March, 8000 miles. KM
Didn't mention in my other post, I did not use the stock mount clips from the fender flares. I trimmed them off and just drilled mounting holes thru the inner fender lip for the button retainers, no hole on the outside of the fender. A few lower screw factory mountings were used some had to be drilled on the flare lip to accommodate, clamped the flare in position and started drilling and installing. I first drilled and mounted at the body indent joint line to best position the flare. moved outwards from there. They are solid, tight after 8000 miles and easily removed by pulling the buttons. Used 20 or so buttons. KM
Are the fenders steel or aluminum? I sure wouldn't drill into steel. Why don't you want to use body tape? Most rear spoilers are attached with tape it is as strong as screws and you always have the option of removing it. Also tape has no rust issues.
Are the fenders steel or aluminum? I sure wouldn't drill into steel. Why don't you want to use body tape? Most rear spoilers are attached with tape it is as strong as screws and you always have the option of removing it. Also tape has no rust issues.
The fenders are aluminum. I would still touch up the holes with paint before installation. I've read that many people are happy with their results using tape, but many others complain about gaps. The tabs that the tape are applied to are kind of flimsy so it's hard to press the tape firmly onto the fender. Drilling holes doesn't really scare me. All the trucks that come from the factory with them have holes in the fenders. And worse case, if I mess up a hole (not that I want to), it'll be hidden by the flare.
Yes they are aluminum, would have done thru steel also, not to hard to add some coating corrosion preventative. I've had problems with the tape. Commercial double sided tape is not the same as that used by auto manufacturers. I planned to add tape if the buttons were not enough. Have not needed that so far. Big reason I began with drilling for buttons was accurate location of the stock clip hole positions, if I started with tape it would be difficult to get good adhesion due to flex in the flare mountings. Using buttons on the inner lip solved both. KM
Last edited by 2017bluetruck; 10-19-2018 at 10:09 AM.
Didn't mention in my other post, I did not use the stock mount clips from the fender flares. I trimmed them off and just drilled mounting holes thru the inner fender lip for the button retainers, no hole on the outside of the fender. A few lower screw factory mountings were used some had to be drilled on the flare lip to accommodate, clamped the flare in position and started drilling and installing. I first drilled and mounted at the body indent joint line to best position the flare. moved outwards from there. They are solid, tight after 8000 miles and easily removed by pulling the buttons. Used 20 or so buttons. KM
Just confirming you did not add any double sided tape to where you removed the clips and only mounted using push pins on the inner fender. If so do you not have any gaps on the top of the fender lip or my concern is if it goes thru a car wash would it have any movement? Seems like an easy way to go if its holding tight.
10-17-2018, 06:28 PM
Installing factory fender flares
