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The most common issues I've seen with opening up headlights for modifications is that often times they can leak or fog up afterwards. So you definitely want to make sure you take your time removing all of the old sealant and to use an OEM quality type of weatherproof sealant. Besides seeing guys have issues with them fogging up, having issues with the paint not adhering to the plastic is the only other common thing that comes to mind. Scuffing the surface up well and using an adhesion promoter type of primer are both good ideas to help make sure everything turns out well.
Early 15-16 lights with the removable ballast covers are a breeze to open. Ford swapped to a different permasea when they swapped to the one piece ballast covers which makes baking and prying them apart nearly impossible. I painted the lamps on my 15 and had around 3 days in it, but I also smoothed out all the texture in the bowls while I was there. Taping the DRL tube is a pain no matter what year you go with, which is why I did Raptor/SE housings on my ‘17. Still opened them and installed Klearz smoked lenses, but I didn’t mess with painting anything this go around.
The most common issues I've seen with opening up headlights for modifications is that often times they can leak or fog up afterwards. So you definitely want to make sure you take your time removing all of the old sealant and to use an OEM quality type of weatherproof sealant. Besides seeing guys have issues with them fogging up, having issues with the paint not adhering to the plastic is the only other common thing that comes to mind. Scuffing the surface up well and using an adhesion promoter type of primer are both good ideas to help make sure everything turns out well.
Good point one of the longest part of the process for me was heating the old glue up with a heat gun and removing it .. i got better on the second set .. i burned my finger tips off on the first set
I opened up a set of halogens for my 2017. It sucked and I’ll never do it again. For me it comes down to cost Vs time. I had about 2, 8 hr days total in the headlights. I would’ve easily paid $400 to get those days back. I’d much rather pay and get to spend the time with my family and enjoy my 2 year old son. You can’t get the time back you miss with your fam, but you can always make more money. And this wasn’t the first set of heads I’ve opened. I had all the necessary tools. It still sucked. Permaseal is stupid. Trust me, pay to have it done. Save the headache and spend the time doing something else.
Thanks everyone. I plan on tackling this soon. I've has a decent amount of experience with paint and prep, So I'm not worried about that part. I was planning on buying new se headlight, or the Morimoto headlights, but figured I would try this first. Mine have the removable ballasts cover so hopefully that will make it easier.
Thanks everyone. I plan on tackling this soon. I've has a decent amount of experience with paint and prep, So I'm not worried about that part. I was planning on buying new se headlight, or the Morimoto headlights, but figured I would try this first. Mine have the removable ballasts cover so hopefully that will make it easier.
Shouldnt be that big of a deal opening them from my experience. And just an FYI, the chrome on the bowls of the headlamps and the LED “bulb” housing and trim piece can be removed using oven cleaner and if rinsed quickly enough leaves the light looking identical to the SE housings. Only piece that needs painted then is the DRL/LED front trim ring that attaches to the front lens.
A few points I would add when it comes to opening and painting headlights:
1. I would let the headlights out-gas for at least a week before re-sealing. left over vapors might end up with fogging or hazing inside the clear cover/lens.
2. After you get the clear cover off, wrap it in something lint free like an old sheet and put it on the shelf out of the way. Don't get any kind of dirt or smudges on the inside that can't be removed with compressed air. You will be screwed, you can't even wipe the inside with a microfiber or other cloth without scratching the uncoated inside.
3. When you put things back together, use plenty of butyl, or whatever you're sealing with. You can easily cut away extra that oozes out but who wants to remove the headlights and re-open a few months down the road to add more.
I used Precision Retrofit. They do a core swap for those that do not want to wait without lights. You get on a list, when it’s your turn you pay 750, they send you OEM LEDs from somebody else that swapped, you install, then send yours to them. Took about 3-4 weeks for my turn. Truck was only down for the time it took to swap them.
Last edited by ThanksInAdvance; 02-12-2019 at 11:48 AM.
02-11-2019, 03:02 PM
