Elasinthe

I always do this too, and also where the rotor meets the wheel. You'll thank yourself next time.

acdii

This is a MUST with dual wheels!!!

Napalm

along with the bolt method - which I don't use often because it can strain the caliper bracket too if they are rusted too tight.

I like to spray PB blaster (whichever) into the lug holes when I can - then on the back of the rotor when I can. Then I tap the side of the rotor not the face. (think hitting the rotor on the rim - toward the center)

This puts shearing force on the rust holding it in place. and it breaks off easier - because rust doesn't do shear. Won't hut the studs you won't hit it that hard, and I often get one off in 2 pops or less.

if real stubbon - bolt method - but I don't always have a bolt and nut for the job. I don't just keep tonnes of hardware of different lengths laying around. So if I can get it off this was easily I don't need the bolt and nut method.

Safety - run 1 or 2 lugs onto the studs before removing the rotor - just in case it did come free. Bolt method or not.

acdii

The Ebrake rears have very little hub on them now. They stick up about a 1/2 inch.

Mb1500

Another cost cutting measure. “let’s save $0.003 on every rotor by not drilling and tapping two holes on the hat.”

Whenever I need to take my rotors off I’ll be cussing whoever made that decision.

devldog131

Amen.

acdii

One of the other reasons I went to Powerstop rotors, they do have threaded removal holes on the hats, front and rear.

Napalm

you know I have only seen that on a few disc brake rotors. Saw it all the time on drums. I do see a few that have an extra, smooth hole - no threads. which is nice for spraying penetrating oil at the hub faces.

Now question - what bolt fits that? did they supply some - did they match say the brake caliper bracket bolts - ? And do they hit a point that is sold enough to be pushed on?


what I do see more and more is what I call the OSHA screw. held to a tapped hole in the hub - for a small screw - there is not a screw head sitting near the center of the rotor hat. SO you go about getting ready to take it off - and this screw is holding it on - but you know it's rusted over and the head snaps off when you turn it. So now you have to take the rotor off - and back out a screw shard, or grind it flat.

That is confoundingly dumb.

6.0 dilly

where did you find a bolt long enough that was the same size? I found it’s a m16 and I couldn’t find a long one anywhere.

devldog131

I had one kicking around in my garage, but it would have come from Home Depot. It didn't match the threads of the caliper bracket bolt hole, it was small enough to fit through the hole and I used a nut on the other side to create the tension.

See the video in post #6 on this thread.