Help again! Stuck rear rotor!
#1
FNG
Thread Starter
Help again! Stuck rear rotor!
So I resolved my previous issue with the stuck front caliper bracket bolt, now i have a new one...
How the hell do i get the rear rotor off? I have completely disconnected the parking brake cable, sprayed a ton of PB in around the lugs and hub, but I still can't get the rotor to budge.
There are no threaded holes in the face of the rotor and the caliper bracket bolt holes aren't threaded. Any tips or tricks for this? I'd love to get the truck back on the ground ASAP since there is rain in the forecast for tomorrow.
How the hell do i get the rear rotor off? I have completely disconnected the parking brake cable, sprayed a ton of PB in around the lugs and hub, but I still can't get the rotor to budge.
There are no threaded holes in the face of the rotor and the caliper bracket bolt holes aren't threaded. Any tips or tricks for this? I'd love to get the truck back on the ground ASAP since there is rain in the forecast for tomorrow.
#2
Senior Member
If you sprayed everything with PB, take a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block and smack the edge of the rotor in a couple of places. The shear force should loosen it enough to allow for removal.
#3
Take the ball part of the biggest hammer you have and hit repeatedly between each lug stud. Swing like you’re trying to hit a home run. It’ll break loose or crack apart and come loose by default at that point anyway.
#4
FNG
Thread Starter
I was able to put a 4" bolt through the caliper bracket bolt hole with a nut on the other side and crank the bolt at various point around the rotor until it broke it loose enough for me to wiggle it off.
The following users liked this post:
picaFord (08-21-2023)
#5
I noticed yesterday when pulling mine that the rotors are pressed on the hubs a tiny bit from the factory. My Drivers hub had some rust (truck is 9 months old) that stuck the rotor, so it took some big hits to get it to pop loose. There wasn't much rust, but enough to stick it good. Passenger side had no rust but was stuck too. two smacks with a plastic dead blow had it off. When I put the new rotor on, I had to press it onto the hub and it stuck. Can't say the same for the rears.
I also tend to slather on Anti-seize in the hub where metal meets metal to prevent rust from sticking them together. Works great.
The following 2 users liked this post by A/Ox4:
picaFord (08-21-2023),
Wrenchbender (05-05-2019)
#7
FNG
Thread Starter
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#8
FNG
Thread Starter
If you plan to reuse the rotor, ^^THIS^^ is the way to go, but also peening the hub at the same time works best. You put an angle on the rotor with the bolt pressure, then the shock of the hammer on the hub should be enough to crack the seal.
I noticed yesterday when pulling mine that the rotors are pressed on the hubs a tiny bit from the factory. My Drivers hub had some rust (truck is 9 months old) that stuck the rotor, so it took some big hits to get it to pop loose. There wasn't much rust, but enough to stick it good. Passenger side had no rust but was stuck too. two smacks with a plastic dead blow had it off. When I put the new rotor on, I had to press it onto the hub and it stuck. Can't say the same for the rears.
I also tend to slather on Anti-seize in the hub where metal meets metal to prevent rust from sticking them together. Works great.
I noticed yesterday when pulling mine that the rotors are pressed on the hubs a tiny bit from the factory. My Drivers hub had some rust (truck is 9 months old) that stuck the rotor, so it took some big hits to get it to pop loose. There wasn't much rust, but enough to stick it good. Passenger side had no rust but was stuck too. two smacks with a plastic dead blow had it off. When I put the new rotor on, I had to press it onto the hub and it stuck. Can't say the same for the rears.
I also tend to slather on Anti-seize in the hub where metal meets metal to prevent rust from sticking them together. Works great.
Did the other side today, skipped the hammer, sprayed with penetrating lubricant, let it sit for a smoke break, then went straight to the bolt method. Came off in seconds without even working hard.
#9
I dunno if it makes any difference busting the rotor loose but it's always been habit to adjust the ebrake shoes all the way in first before knocking the rotor off. I usually use a combination of the bolt method and using a heavy mallet. I'll put a bolt thru till there is a good amount of pressure on the rotor and give it a few whacks, back it off and move the rotor to a new spot, then rinse and repeat till it breaks free. I've had em break free as soon as the bolt puts some pressure on the rotor the first time, and I've had em take doing the whole routine 4 or 5 times before busting loose.
#10