Jeff Hein

Heated steering wheel upgrade for 15-17 (18?) F150. Thanks to everyone that posted their knowledge in other threads. I wanted to make a easy to follow guide that was easy to find. This is a guide created by following posts of other users - and another guide on the Ford Fusion Forums: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6598

When I bought my parts - I searched around and found the best price at Walt Sweeney ford https://www.waltsweeneyfordparts.com.

Ford Parts

1. JL3Z-3600-LA Steering Wheel (Lariat SE wheel with grey stitching)
2. HL3Z-14A664-B Cover And Contact Plate Assembly (ClockSpring)
3. DG9Z-14B561-A Control Module (HSWM)
4. (3)CU5Z-14A163-A Retainer - holds HSWM
5. EU2Z-14474-AA Terminal (Port 15 in BCM)
6. (2) WT-1001- Terminal for clock spring connector
7. WPT-965 - Wire Assembly for Clock Spring (Heated wires)
8. WPT-955 - Wire Assembly for HSWM
9. WPT-977- Wire Assembly for port near obd2 connection

Other Parts

1. 14-16 AWG 1/4" Stud Ring
2. 14-16 AWG Closed End Connector
3. Tesa Tape (
   Amazon
   Amazon
   ) or Electrical Tape
4. 5' 14 AWG Wire

Tools Needed/Used

1. 7mm nut driver
2. 8mm socket
3. T10 Torx
4. Auto-Trim removal tool
5. Wire Cutter
6. Soldering Iron
7. Electrical Solder
8. small screwdrivers
9. 15/16 socket
10. cable ties (Small)
11. heat gun
12. 4mm Allen Wrench (Air Bag Removal)

Making the Wiring Harness

1. WPT-977 - this is the connector with 4 terminal wires. Cut both wires 3 and 4 to be about 2 inches long. You could probably remove wires 1 and 2 as they are not used for this mod. I just left them in and taped them up.
2. WPT-955 (harness that fits into the Heated Steering wheel module) has 14 connections, not all of them are needed, so wires 2,6,9,10,11, and 13 can be removed. To remove the wires - remove the red retainer on the front by putting a small screwdriver into the bottom pin (See pictures) and slide it forward. After the red retainer is pulled out, you can insert a small screwdriver into the front of the wire harness and release the pin holding the wire terminal in place. After the screw driver is in place, you can pull the wire out through the back of the connector. The back of the connector has small numbers on it, so you can see which wires you need to remove
3. After wires are removed - you can put the red retaining clip back on the front of the connector
   1. Wire 1 will connect to the 5' of 14AGW wire. I soldered the ends together and then put heat shrink over the joint. Good video on doing the solder joints :
      You Tube
   2. Wire 3 will connect to wire 4 on WPT-977 (which was cut to be 2" long) - I soldered an put heat shrink tubing over the joint.
   3. Wire 4 will connect to wire 3 on WPT-977 (which was cut to be 2" long) - I soldered an put heat shrink tubing over the joint.
   4. Wire 5 will connect to WT-1001. (Use a marker and color this connector black) Just solder the wires together and put heat shrink tubing over the joint. This wire will connect to the Clock Spring terminal by the Steering Wheel
   5. Wire 7 will connect to Wire 2 on WPT-965. WPT-965 is a connector with 2 wires. No cuts required - just splice wires together, solder and put heat shrink tubing over the joint.
   6. Wire 8 will connect to Wire 1 on WPT-965. WPT-965 is a connector with 2 wires. No cuts required - just splice wires together, solder and put heat shrink tubing over the joint.
   7. Wire 12 will connect to WT-1001. Just solder the wires together and put heat shring tubing over the joint. This wire will connect to the Clock Spring terminal by the Steering Wheel.
   8. Wire 14 will connect to the stud ring. I cut about 2" off the wire, and then crimp it to the stud ring -- this will eventually connect to a grounding bolt.
   9. Wrap all of the wires with Tesa Tape.
      1. The 4 wires on the WPT-977 can be all wrapped together, you can wrap them from WPT-977 all the way back to wires 3 & 4 on WPT-955. Wires 1 and 2 on the WPT-977 harness are not used at all.
      2. Wires 5,7,8,12 on WPT-965 can be wrapped together. These are going all the way up the the clock spring on the steering wheel. leave about 6 inches on the end so the WT-1001 terminal wires have room to be plugged in.
      3. Wire 1 will end up going all the way over by the passenger foot compartment - I made my long enough that I can cut it to length. You can wrap this wire with Tesa tape all the way to the end.

Retaining clip is coming out


Insert a small screwdriver, then slide red retainer forward


Push a small screwdriver into the front of the wiring harness - lift up on the small pin and you can pull the wire out through the back

WPT-955 connector with un-needed wires removed


Soldered wire


Shrink Wrapped connection


Completed wiring harness

Stud Ring - used for the grounding connection

Stud Ring attached to the ground wire on WPT-955 wire assembly

Jeff Hein

Installation

1. Disconnect the battery, wait 30 minutes (just to be safe)
2. Remove the air bag and Steering Wheel (Video here:
   You Tube
   )
3. Remove plastic shroud around steering wheel. There is a pin on each side - press in with a screw driver. The top piece will lift up. Use a 7 mm nut driver and take the 3 bolts out of the bottom shroud, then remove the bottom shroud (work it away from the steering wheel tilt lock)
4. Remove the old clock spring (there are 4 T10 torx screws holding it in place). You will need to disconnect the wiring harness from the bottom of the clock spring.
5. Install the new clock spring (Leave the white plastic retainer in place for now), install with the 4 torx bits
6. Pull down the knee panel. You can grab it at the top and pull it towards the seat, it will fold down
7. Remove the large metal bracket - there are (4) 8mm bolts holding it in place. My removing this metal bracket - you will have easier access to the area where the HSWM will be installed.
8. You will see a metal bracket with several holes, this is where the heated steering wheel module (HSWM) goes. Secure in place with the 3 retainer clips CU5Z-14A163-A
9. Install wiring harness into the HSWM. The 4 wires with the WPT-965 connector will go up the steering wheel column. The WPT-965 connector will plug into the left side of the clock spring.
10. Attach the ground wire (Wire 14) to the grounding bolt, This is a 8 mm bolt, and there is already a grounding wire connected to it.
11. Wires 5 and 12 will go into the harness that connects to the right side of the clock spring. Push Wire 5 into Pin 3 (We colored this wire black back on step 2e) push wire 12 into pin 2.
12. Reattached the clock spring wiring harness back to the clock spring.
13. Zip tie the wires back to existing wires running down the steering wheel column.
14. Fish the Power (WPT-955 Wire #1) line through the center console and over to the passenger compartment
15. Re-install metal bracket with the 4 8mm bolts
16. Push the knee panel back up into place
17. Re-install the bottom shroud aroudn the steering wheel. I had to fish it around the Steering wheel Tilt **** to get it back in place. Secure with 3 7mm bolts
18. Re-install the top shroud. There are pins around the outside that will line up with the bottom shroud.
19. Install Steering wheel - make all wiring connections. 15/16th bolt will need to be Torqued to 41 ft pounds
20. Install Air Bag
21. Under the glove box (right where you passenger feet go) there is a black plastic shroud. There are 2 plastic pins holding it into place. Fish the wire around the HVAC and over to the right side of the passenger foot well.
22. The fuse box is on the right side of the passenger foot well, remove the plastic cover.
23. The bottom connector will need to be removed. Swing the white lever up on the connector, and then you can pull it out. Remove the plastic cable tie, and then use a small screw driver to release the black plastic piece off the back of the connector. Remove the Red plastic retainer from the front of the connector - I was able to use my fingernails to lift the tabs and slide it free.
    1. If Pin 15 currently has a wire in it, remove this wire (It is for your backup camera). Insert a 14 gauge terminal wire EU2Z-14474-AA into pin 15.
    2. If you removed a wire - cut off the terminal connector
    3. Cut the wire you ran from the HSWM to length, then either solder to the terminal wire and wrap with heat shrink tubing
       1. If you are putting 3 wires together, I used a Closed End Crimp Connector
    4. Attach the red wiring retainer to the front of the wiring harness
    5. Re-attach the black plastic back to the wiring harness
    6. Use a cable tie to secure the wires to the bottom of the wiring harness
    7. Put the wiring harness back in place - the white lever will lock it into place
    8. Reinstall the plastic cover over the fusebox
24. Re-attach negative terminal to the battery
25. Make forscan changes. Forscan should show a HSWM module when you re-scan your vehical. I did a reset on the module after forscan found it.

Push pin to remove Shroud




4 T10 Screws holding Clock Spring


Pull Knee panel straight down


Remove Metal Bracket - (4) 8mm bolts


Connector behind OBD2 connection. We will plug one of the harnesses into this port


Mounting bracked for HSWM - I have the 3 plastic studs installed. This is below steering wheel, behind knee panel


HSWM Installed


Ground Connection for HSWM Wiring Harness


New wires going into ports 2/3 of the clockspring connector

Jeff Hein

Remove Plastic Pins holding shroud under glove box. There are 2 pins to remove


BCM Connector - lift up on white retainer and remove bottom connector


Remove red retainer, I can remove it with my fingernail


My truck had a backup camera - I had to remove the exiting wire


Front of wiring harness - pin 15 highlighted


Back of wiring harness with new terminal wire intalled


Wiring harness with new Cable Tie intalled


3 way connector using a closed end crimp connection. HSWM Power wire, Terminal Wire, and Backup Camera Wire


Wiring harness all taped up with Tesa Tape


Connectors used to crimp BCM wires



Forscan Programming
FCIM:
7A7-01-02 XXX8 XXXX XXXX

HSWM:
714-01-01: 0000 0000 1D
Pick One:
714-02-01: 0244 4444 xx - Wheel Temperature = 68ºF - 2013/2014/2015 Fusion/MKZ Default
714-02-01: 024C 4C4C xx - Wheel Temperature = 76ºF
714-02-01: 0254 5454 xx - Wheel Temperature = 84ºF - Mondeo Default
714-02-01: 0258 5858 xx - Wheel Temperature = 88ºF
714-02-01: 025A 5A5A xx - Wheel Temperature = 90ºF
714-02-01: 025C 5C5C xx - Wheel Temperature = 92ºF - 2016/2017 Fusion Default
714-02-01: 025E 5A5E xx - Wheel Temperature = 94ºF
714-02-01: 0264 6464 xx - Wheel Temperature = 100ºF - 2016/2017 MKZ Default

APIM:
(Pick one) for On-Screen Control:
7D0-01-01: xxxx xxxx x4xx - Heated Steering Wheel Only
7D0-01-01: xxxx xxxx x7xx - Heated Steering Wheel and Seats
7D0-01-01: xxxx xxxx x6xx - Heated Steering Wheel and AC/Heated Seats

IPC:
Only change if vehicle is remote starter equipped and has IPC RS controls, will warm up wheel when remote started
720-02-02: xxxx xXxx - Add 4 to existing value
Examples: 9->D, A->E, B->F




Enjoy your heated wheel!

Jeff Hein

Reserved

MNSportsman

iTrader: (1)

Awesome work! Thanks for putting this together!

No doubt folks will find this of use.

fordxlt

Very nice job. I did this to my 16 XLT this winter, you did an excellent job showing all the steps involved. The only trouble I ran into was plugging the new terminal wire EU2Z-14474-AA into pin 15 on the BCM. Mine would not fit until I filed a bit of solder off of the connection on the terminal wire. As you know, it's a much larger wire than the backup camera one that it replaces.

GM150

Ryan B

iTrader: (1)

Southeast Beast

Do you lose the back up camera function.
I want heated steering,but would rather keep my backup camera if I had to choose btw the 2.

Jeff Hein

The Backup Camera still functions after doing this mod.