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wow....that is quite the complete kit. obviously costs way more then doing the forscan way.....but for someone like myself who does not have the forscan option it does seem enticing...be interested to know if anyone has gone that route through that ebay seller....
Ehh, its still high. You can buy that same "Kit" from The Retrofit Source for $2150.
Success report on using this thread! I have my 2017 F-150 Lariat with BLIS tail lights up and running with the SE OEM LEDs headlights using a harness provided by Ryan B. Works perfectly!
(1 pair) SE OEM Headlights - purchased from Palm Coast Ford via eBay
(2) OEM Headlight module (sometimes referred to as a ballast, but it's not technically a ballast) - purchased from Palm Coast Ford via eBay
(1) plug and play wiring harness from Ryan B
Disconnect the negative ground from the battery: This is a requirement, since you'll be messing with the BCM.
Headlight assembly removal/replacement: The process was not difficult for anyone who has done some minor auto and electrical mods thanks to the information provided in this thread and the harness I got from Ryan, although it somewhat tedious. I took my time doing this job, since a) I haven't taken the headlights out on an F-150 before, and b) my truck is a month old, so I wanted to take my time and not break clips, make scratches if I could help it. I did observe that the headlights are harder to get to, remove than they should be. There are plenty of youtube videos which walk you through that process, and it's not difficult - I just think the amount of work it takes to get them off is stupid when you consider you'd need to take them off to get to replace the halogen bulbs unless you've got some way smaller hands than I do. Gone are the good ole days of just popping the bulb out and you're on your way. It is a good idea to have a couple of spare fender flare clips, because I broke one on each side getting the front of the fender flare loosened to remove the headlight assembly. It's wise to keep various clips around the shop if you do any kinds of auto mods anyway - the bodies on new vehicles are held together by mostly clips these days, and even with the right tools and patience, sometimes you will break them no matter what you do which is frustrating if you don't have any replacements on hand. I have a Ford body clip kit I got from AutoZone a while back which has a nice variety of clips. Overall, removing and installing the headlight harnesses was easy minus the annoyance of removing the fender flare front portion.
Harness hookup: The harness I obtained from Ryan was excellent. It plugged right into the existing halogen wiring harnesses, and it was made well and covered appropriately with tesa tape and wire loom. I did go ahead and use some more tesa tape to cover the connection points of the harness and tidy up everything after installing as well as using some zip ties to keep everything looking nice. I routed the harness between the lights in the upper area in front of the radiator and air louver just behind the grill. The harness was plenty long enough to take the four BCM wires back through the firewall and to the BCM with some to spare. I routed the BCM wires on the passenger side to the outer side of the battery and under the fuse box area which is just behind the battery. If you'll look behind the battery, you'll see a very large grommet (maybe 5 inch circle) and then a small 1" oval grommet to the right of the big one which is unused. I used the 1" oval grommet which goes directly into the cab - you will see the carpet. You can cut through it, but I found it just easier to push it downward after the grommet, and then it pops out in an existing hole right in front of the BCM. See pics below indicating the location. I used a large, long zip tie as my fishing wire and taped the BCM wiring harness to it and pulled it through very easily. The BCM is just a few inches from where that grommet is.
BCM pinning: After bringing the hardness in through the grommet described above, I removed the C2280F connector from the BCM. There is a grey latch that you push downward after releasing the little pin in the middle which will loosen the connector. Pull it outward. The tricky part is, this connector is actually a connector housing holding two actually connectors, each of which has 20 pins for a total of 40 total. On the back side of the connector housing, each side has a tiny pin lock - just push a small screwdriver or point in each side, and you can slide out the two connectors inside to get to everything. Once you do that, you'll see the wires coming out of the top of the connectors, and you'll also be able to see the pin numbering. It's very small, so if you wear glasses, put em on. A headlamp is critical for working in this area, as you'll wish you had four hands. As mentioned before already, if you're a lefty, you have an advantage. This area is small to work in and rather uncomfortable to contort yourself into. Just take your time. Ensure you check twice for the numbering and pin location of each of the four wires you need to pin, and then knock them out. 3 of the 4 when in and clicked very easily. One had some extra tension, and I had to carefully use a small point to help push it in the final amount for it to click/lock into place. This part of the process isn't hard, it's just in an uncomfortable location, and it's very tedious working on items so small. As another has already mentioned, use the wires themselves for orienting and pushing versus the pins themselves.
Forscan changes: The forscan changes are outlined on this forum. In my case, I have a 2017 F-150 Lariat with BLIS. Below are my particular changes:
-“inhibiting” almost all the lights 726-24-01 xxxx xxCC x4xx
-Frequency select 0= LED 726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx
-disable turn signal bulb outage,
enable front LED turn outage,
ability to do high beams & fogs at the same time,
-fogs and high beam remembered after off/on 726-27-01 x0x1 xxxx xxxx
-Vrms Target Set Cfg: 0=Type 0 726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx
-Enable all DRL options 726-45-01 xxxx 7Fxx xxxx
-DRL OEM LED 726-50-01 108E
Overall time: I'd say I spent about 4.5 hours start to finish taking my time including getting tools together and cleaning up.
I have to add my thanks to Ryan B and everyone else who worked on this. I just installed some OEM LEDs that I picked up in the For Sale forum, and used Ryan's plug and play harness. Other than some issues with the fender flare clips, the install went pretty smoothly. I didn't add the wires to the BCM yet (cold front came through, and too windy/cold to finish), so I've turned off DRLs and disabled the front hyperflash in the meantime. Otherwise, all functions are working correctly. Thanks again!
Thanks so much for your work on this guys. I bought used lights on eBay, all in I spent about $740.00 including the lights, a new ballast and making the harnesses.
Hey Ryan, I just noticed my interior lights are strobing on and off. I changed all the bcm forscan info you put on the first post for 2015 without BLIS, the headlights work great but I'm not sure how to make the interior lights stop going haywire.
Hey Ryan, I just noticed my interior lights are strobing on and off. I changed all the bcm forscan info you put on the first post for 2015 without BLIS, the headlights work great but I'm not sure how to make the interior lights stop going haywire.
Lint,
The strobing dome lights are usually due to the DRL circuit not being setup correctly. Did you run the DRL wires back to the BCM? If not you can also try setting the DRLs to be be the foglights or turn signals and see if that stops the strobing.
I ran all 4 wires to the bcm, I just changed 27-01 to the one you told shadowblack to turn off bulb out notification and it seems to have done the trick.
01-10-2018, 11:30 AM
