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I updated the post with other places to get the connectors besides Ebay. The connectors are the same ones used for the LED tail lights so I doubt you would be able to reuse the pins from the halogen plugs. But if you could, that'd be awesome.
Molex pins are 100% removable. They even make a tool (available through Ford too)
Molex pins are 100% removable. They even make a tool (available through Ford too)
They are, but I think the pins used in the halogen headlight connectors are a different size then the ones used in the LED connector. I have an extra Molex connector so I'll depin the Halogen connectors when I get home and see if they fit.
They are, but I think the pins used in the halogen headlight connectors are a different size then the ones used in the LED connector. I have an extra Molex connector so I'll depin the Halogen connectors when I get home and see if they fit.
Wow this is exactly what I've been looking for. I appreciate all the work yall put in to make this happen cause I was just about ready to pull the trigger on a set of axial headlights as a compromise between close to oem led styling but reliability of not using the adapters everyone has so many issues with. My only question is do you know the different value inputs for non blis enabled trucks like mine? cause you stated "a Non-Blis truck will have a different 726-24-01 configuration" or am I possibly misunderstanding something?
I'd like to add my contribution to the forum, How to swap from halogen to the OEM LED headlights and maintain the stock functionality. After working with @Livnitup and @Firerunner to figure out adding BLIS to an XLT it occurred to me that running the factory LED Headlights should work too if the right configuration was set in the BCM. Write-ups aren't my thing, so if some would like to help me clean this rambling up into a direct how-to, PM me.
Each LED headlight needs 7 wires to function correctly; Low Beam, High Beam, DRL, Turn, Running Light, Turn Outage, Ground. A truck with Halogen lights will have 5 of those 7 wires already at each headlight. The DRL and Turn Outage wires must be added to connector 2280F at the BCM and then run to each headlight for factory operation.
BCM:
To start, I made a harness of 4 wires wrapped in Tesa Tape and terminated for the BCM connector. It's important to use 4 different colors of wire to keep track of what goes where. For C2280F, you need to use DU2Z-14474-AA terminals. After the harness was made, I used a coat hanger that was sharpened on one end to pull the wire through the grommet on the passenger side of the firewall.
Re-pinning the 2280F Connector is tricky because Ford didn't leave much slack to work with. The best way I found to get room to work was to remove the trim piece under the blower motor, its held on by two push pins by the glove box hinge. The 2280F connector itself is made up of two terminal blocks inside a housing. One block has pins 1-20 and the second is 21-40. There is a little tab on either side of the housing you depress to slide the terminal blocks out. Make sure you're pinning the right spot in the connector, de-pinning this connector looks almost impossible.
Wires you're adding: (Colors are mine)
Left Turn Outage - Pin #6 (White)
Left DRL - Pin #40 (Black)
Right Turn Outage - Pin #17 (Red)
Right DRL Pin - #36 (Yellow)
Engine Bay:
Remove the headlights, then start to run the new harness in the engine bay. I put the Tesa Tape wrapped harness in plastic wire loom and ran it under the fuse box and around the battery following the other harness and pulled it out behind the Right Head light. Then I took the two wires for the Left headlight and ran them across the top of the grille to the other side. I hid them under the plastic radiator trim cover making sure to keep the wires away from the shutters.
Wiring the Headlights: I fully committed to this, so I cut off all four of the halogen connectors and used Molex MX150 Female Connectors to mate with the plug on the Headlights. Once both connectors are pinned, re-install the headlights and clean up any wire ties or excess wire. Edit: If the Ebay link dies, you can use either Motorcraft WPT-1279 pigtails or Molex 33472-1601 Connectors.
The Right headlight connector gets pinned as follows:
Pin 1 - Yellow/Violet
Pin 2 - Red
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Yellow
Pin 5 - Blue/Green
Pin 6 - Violet/Orange
Pin 7 - Black/Gray
The Left Headlight is not the same, but similar:
Pin 1 - Blue/Green
Pin 2 - White
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Black
Pin 5 - Brown/Blue
Pin 6 - Gray/Brown
Pin 7 - Black/Yellow
Forscan:
The final piece to the puzzle is changing the BCM programming to work with the LEDs.
726-24-01 xxxx xxFF xFxx*
726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx
726-27-01 x0x1 xxx1 01xx
726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx
726-45-01 xxxx 11xx xxxx
726-50-01 10xx
*This is for a truck with BLIS, a Non-Blis truck will have a different 726-24-01 configuration.
Results:
I have been running this setup since Friday and have had no issues. DRL function normally, the Auto setting still works and I haven't had either C-light go out. I do have a DTC for "lost communication with seat module A" but I can live with that.
I'm curious if changing the ABD to what's listed would work on a truck using a TRS harness that has issues with the C Bar and Auto not working all the time.
OP, thanks for all the info. What year is your truck? Mine is a 2017 with BLIS and when I set 726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx, my interior lights "strobe"...they appear to go bright and dim like on a different frequency. I read on here this pertains to 2017's only???
I have the RR harness and get the occasional C light not coming on with the parking lights, do you know if any of the Forscan changes affect that? Reason I ask is I haven't seen 726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx mentioned in previous threads.
Finally, are 726-45-01 xxxx 11xx xxxx and 726-50-01 10xx only necessary if using DRL's (which I do not)?
09-12-2017, 10:58 AM
