When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i messed around with the configuration tab and hard coded "com3" and the option of the switch but still no luck
I know you say you tried the switch but I get this error if the switch on the adapter is in the wrong position (and FYI my switch was labeled backwards). Also there are settings in Forscan for the adapter - I think I had to manually change mine to auto negotiate - there was a note on this buried in the vast Forscan thread. I would bet it is something specific to the adapter settings in Forscan.
thanks shellshocked. i had limited time to try it out last night as it was snowing outside but today is a nice sunny day so i will play with the connections setting and see what happens.
i just wanted to say thanks for the help - i was able to get everything working yesterday. turns out windows needed a reboot for the adapter/software to work, can't believe it wasn't the first thing i tried!
so my initial thoughts - the sub sounds pretty good for what i paid ($300 CDN) but its not worth too much more than that. it fills out the soundstage well but definitely struggles on certain frequencies and then it sounds "pongy" if that makes sense.
does the Kicker 11HS8 hideway do a better job with lower frequencies? might need to do a swap in the future.
Newer to the forum and been doing lots of research on this sub stuff. I had a LCQ-1 that I used wires from the radio in and back out. I was continuously having weird turn on issues where it would turn on every other start. I pulled 12v switched from the steering column like you would an alarm. I returned it and have ordered a Dayton 408 and awaiting. So, this is what Im thinking.
Taking the WPT1212 harness and taking the low level line inputs into this. Taking a Y off these to get me four channels and hoping the Dayton will sum for the 4 channels for a sub on the outputs.
Newer to the forum and been doing lots of research on this sub stuff. I had a LCQ-1 that I used wires from the radio in and back out. I was continuously having weird turn on issues where it would turn on every other start. I pulled 12v switched from the steering column like you would an alarm. I returned it and have ordered a Dayton 408 and awaiting. So, this is what Im thinking.
Taking the WPT1212 harness and taking the low level line inputs into this. Taking a Y off these to get me four channels and hoping the Dayton will sum for the 4 channels for a sub on the outputs.
Then taking the outputs from the Dayton into the 5ch amp I got to run Type r fronts, Focal rears, Kicker 10" shallow mount in a box under the seats.
Any thoughts on this set up?? Thanks for ya'll time.
The dayton 408 accepts high level input. Stick with high level. Don't just solder rca leads on or you will clip your inputs on the Dayton and potential burn the dsp up. High level/ speaker level is fine.
You also only need to the two front channels. The two front channel are full range/ full frequency. Music is recorded left and right, not front and rear. Rears can be created using the DSP.
Thanks for the input. Have you had any experience with any popping when the stereo turns on/off using the Dayton? The LCQ-1 was horrible. I defeated the GTO and it got better but then it wouldnt give audio out every time you turned the truck on.
Thanks for the input. Have you had any experience with any popping when the stereo turns on/off using the Dayton? The LCQ-1 was horrible. I defeated the GTO and it got better but then it wouldnt give audio out every time you turned the truck on.
Yeah, the lcq1 is pretty outdated. I haven't experienced any popping with the dayton 408 or my helix MK2. Start the easy route and using input source turn-on. If you dont have any turn on pop, excellent. If you find you do, grab your remote turn on from fuse 23 on the interior fuse panel.
