When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sounds like you have it wired right. My truck is the same as yours, and works like that. Is the sub powering up, i.e. Changing to green when the radio is on? Is the "gain" setting on the sub turned up?
I wouldn't use the locker with 7 speaker seeing, put it back how it was before and only enable the sub output.
eYe - I have the same truck - late year build, 2018 XLT Sport with 302A and was able to get the sub working. I don't have the kicker but did install my own amp and sub. I used the WPT1212 connector as well. If you look for my post earlier in this thread you will find I struggled to get it working only to find my amp was bad - I replaced the amp and then everything was good. I did have to use the PacTR4 because 6v would not trigger my amp to turn on - it required 12v, I don't know if the kicker requires 12v but it is easy to test - just connect a wire from the +12v to the turn-on terminal. In my specific case my amp was turning on and looked like it was working but in reality it was bad and not driving my sub. During my troubleshooting I used a 100hz tone played via the USB port and measured the signal at the WPT connector using my Fluke volt meter set on AC to determine if I was actually getting a signal at the connector. Once I saw I was getting a signal going to the amp I was was able to quickly figure out the amp was bad. I am not saying this is your problem but you should be able to at least narrow down the issue. In my post I give some of the readings I saw based on the settings in Forscan and what settings I eventually went with. Start eliminating possible causes. Make sure you have 12V DC and ground to the amp. Make sure the amp is turning on. Play a test tone and make sure you have a signal to the amp. Make sure your amp is outputting a signal to the sub. Make sure you have a good connection from amp to subwoofer.
Sounds like you have it wired right. My truck is the same as yours, and works like that. Is the sub powering up, i.e. Changing to green when the radio is on? Is the "gain" setting on the sub turned up?
I wouldn't use the locker with 7 speaker seeing, put it back how it was before and only enable the sub output.
Otherwise, you could just have a bad sub
No! It doesn't turn green, stays blue. Is this my problem? Like I said documentation on this amp/sub cpmbo is lacking. I'll try bridging constant and switched power tomorrow. Thank you for reply .
No! It doesn't turn green, stays blue. Is this my problem? Like I said documentation on this amp/sub cpmbo is lacking. I'll try bridging constant and switched power tomorrow. Thank you for reply .
Edit: after looking at manual, I found this:
Manual
Sounds like blue light means it's working?
Mine stays blue when it is on, and does not change colors. In fact, the blue light behind the seat was so bright, I put a piece of tape over it. FYI, my 2018 302A had all the wires needed for it to operate correctly through the WPT1212 harness too.
Last edited by KP Texan; Jan 13, 2019 at 02:07 PM.
Mine stays blue when it is on. FYI, my 2018 302A had all the wires needed for it to operate correctly through the WPT1212 harness.
I went out and tested again, this time hooked it up to my phone for sound signal and nada. I think I got a dud speaker. Going tobcontato the seller and request a refund for it. I'll keep you all updated. Thank you for your help.
eYe - on the directions you posted it says to make sure the remote turn on has +12v to +16v. The remote turn on in the truck is only 6V - I would try simply connecting connecting a wire from the normal 12V terminal on the amp to the remote turn on terminal on the amp.
eYe - on the directions you posted it says to make sure the remote turn on has +12v to +16v. The remote turn on in the truck is only 6V - I would try simply connecting connecting a wire from the normal 12V terminal on the amp to the remote turn on terminal on the amp.
Did that. I get blue light either way but no sound. This was my original question too as I'm confused whether or not folks got it working using 6v remote from truck's plug. I don't want to run my own wires or splice into anything. If I can't get it to work using stock connector - I will abandon it altogether.
So... Speaker was a dud. Got a new one and it's working flawless. I get a little bit of bass that I was missing, not too much but just enough to fill the void.
It's a shame that we have to jump through these hoops. My previous vehicle, '12 Ram Sport, had premium system, leather, mirror lights and homelink for $38k out of the door.
Anyway, thank you all for your help.
Just wanted to add another datapoint to this discussion.
2017 STX, 8 inch sync 3, single CD, XM
I had the plug behind the c-pillar, had the 30A fuse in spot 22 under the hood. After making the appropriate Forscan changes, I tested the signals with a volt meter and was getting voltage at power, remote AND line level pins. Made the harness for my Kicker Hideaway and everything worked.
I had a LOC ready as I was sure I was going to be tapping into my rear speaker signals. Very suprised with how it turned out after reading through this thread. If you have an STX, double check before tapping into your speakers.
Lastly, the Kicker Hideaway sounds good and it fills in what was missing from the factory. It certainly doesn't hit like the 12 inch I had in the trunk of my car, but it's plently loud. Surprising from such a small package.
Last edited by Spahrman5; Jan 14, 2019 at 07:03 AM.