Ok I've read all 69 pages and I still can't determine if using the OEM kicker unit produces the pops when the doors open or if this is avoided by using the factory setup.

 

bump for an answer to the popping sound using OEM kicker sub.

 

The consensus seems to be that if you are able to use the factory harness complete with its low level input and 6v trigger then you won't have the thump. Therefore, an OEM Kicker using the factory plug only should be fine.

I went aftermarket as it provided much better sound a much less of a price. I first wired using high level input from a speaker and had just a tiny bit of thump that you had to be paying attention to hear. I then converted to low level input and now have zero thump and better sound.

It seems that most are finding better alternatives to a plug and play OEM Kicker which explains your lack of responses.

 

SSM 46643 - 2015-2016 F-150 Audible Pop From Ford Accessory Kicker® Subwoofer After Ignition Is Turned Off
Some 2015-2016 F-150 vehicles equipped with a Ford Accessory Kicker® subwoofer may exhibit an audible pop from the subwoofer after turning off the ignition. Reprogram the audio control module (ACM) using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) release 105.03 or higher. Make sure you are connected to the internet when entering module programming to obtain the latest updates. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraftservice.com. For claiming, use causal part 18C869 and applicable labor operations in section 11 of the service labor time standards(SLTS) manual.

APPLICABLE VEHICLES
2015 - 2016 TRUCK: FC P552 F150

 

Is this kicker subwoofer plug and play when replacing a 2017 Sony factory subwoofer or do you have to run wires?

 

OK so went to the dealer to get truck programmed. They said that they noticed on the wiring diagram that 3 wires need to be shield? I have no idea what that means. If you have pics of your install that might help. Also they said without the shield you won't get sound?

 

No, it even includes its own seperate amp. It is designed to be plugged in on XLT's behind the pillar in that grey jack.

 

Okay. So using the factory sub/amp and the factory wiring harnesses. The harness wires that go from the amp(6 green/4black) to the sub(4 wires). Do you use the black wires to hook into the grey wires out of the sub? Those 4 wires have would they be power and ground? The green wires have nothing. Dealer said all is ok with programming.

 

 

Ok. Cute girl, but dumb as a stump. Lol. I finally figured out this setup. I was trying to use the green wires, when all l needed to do was use the 4 black wires. Took this girl a couple of beers and some brain cramping and then the ahha moment. Thanks to everyone on this thread for all your help. Now l have bass, very excited. Thanks to lucas888 for starting this project and helpping out others that attempted it also.