Factory sub
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I believe others (and myself) have done this and are still not getting much output from the subs.
5 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 168
Likes: 38
From: Michigan
Hmm.... time to call in a pro to see what's wrong. Speaker level input should be pretty basic as long as you keep the polarity correct from each side. Might be a amp issue. A good 12v shop should have you up and going without much issue. If you were in west MI I'd recommend a few for you.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 2
Update: Much thumping.
I had a feeling that when I changed it to 7 speaker with kicker it had flipped more than one bit. I logged into the ford site and got the AS BUILT settings for 727-01-01-xxxx-xxxx and 727-01-02-xxx-xx and set them back to factory. I then wrote the changes. All front speakers working back the way they did before which was much better. The sub was not working, which is what I expected.
I then went back in and only enabled aux sub using plain english settings. BOOM! I had to turn the bass **** way down and the gain down. The sound out of this little box is pretty amazing.
I'm still only wired to the factory plug and using only the grey wire speaker inputs to the sub connector. I experimented with wiring both inputs to the factory plug and it reduced the sub output significantly.
I had a feeling that when I changed it to 7 speaker with kicker it had flipped more than one bit. I logged into the ford site and got the AS BUILT settings for 727-01-01-xxxx-xxxx and 727-01-02-xxx-xx and set them back to factory. I then wrote the changes. All front speakers working back the way they did before which was much better. The sub was not working, which is what I expected.
I then went back in and only enabled aux sub using plain english settings. BOOM! I had to turn the bass **** way down and the gain down. The sound out of this little box is pretty amazing.
I'm still only wired to the factory plug and using only the grey wire speaker inputs to the sub connector. I experimented with wiring both inputs to the factory plug and it reduced the sub output significantly.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 183
Likes: 28
From: Eastern Washington State (the dry/desert side)
Update: Much thumping.
I had a feeling that when I changed it to 7 speaker with kicker it had flipped more than one bit. I logged into the ford site and got the AS BUILT settings for 727-01-01-xxxx-xxxx and 727-01-02-xxx-xx and set them back to factory. I then wrote the changes. All front speakers working back the way they did before which was much better. The sub was not working, which is what I expected.
I then went back in and only enabled aux sub using plain english settings. BOOM! I had to turn the bass **** way down and the gain down. The sound out of this little box is pretty amazing.
I'm still only wired to the factory plug and using only the grey wire speaker inputs to the sub connector. I experimented with wiring both inputs to the factory plug and it reduced the sub output significantly.
I had a feeling that when I changed it to 7 speaker with kicker it had flipped more than one bit. I logged into the ford site and got the AS BUILT settings for 727-01-01-xxxx-xxxx and 727-01-02-xxx-xx and set them back to factory. I then wrote the changes. All front speakers working back the way they did before which was much better. The sub was not working, which is what I expected.
I then went back in and only enabled aux sub using plain english settings. BOOM! I had to turn the bass **** way down and the gain down. The sound out of this little box is pretty amazing.
I'm still only wired to the factory plug and using only the grey wire speaker inputs to the sub connector. I experimented with wiring both inputs to the factory plug and it reduced the sub output significantly.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 2
Hell, I don't know what system I have. It's got 7 speakers and I have the big nav screen. I don't have a platinum so I doubt it's a premium model.
I would just tell you to keep your factory radio settings and enable the sub only.
I would just tell you to keep your factory radio settings and enable the sub only.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 183
Likes: 28
From: Eastern Washington State (the dry/desert side)
You'd know if you have the Sony as there would be a small Sony logo on your dash center channel speaker. Thanks! :-)
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 26
Likes: 6
Just read through the whole thread and have a 2017 STX XL with Sirius and all the necessary components on order and should arrive next week. I'm planning to wire using the WPT1212 harness and hopefully won't have to tap into the door speakers which would confirm the theory that the difference is in the XL's ACM. I'll keep you all updated.
5 Year Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 347
From: Denver, CO
Just read through the whole thread and have a 2017 STX XL with Sirius and all the necessary components on order and should arrive next week. I'm planning to wire using the WPT1212 harness and hopefully won't have to tap into the door speakers which would confirm the theory that the difference is in the XL's ACM. I'll keep you all updated.
The LR speaker wires are right in the same location so I didn't bother figuring this one out, I just used the door speaker.
White with Green Stripe is LR +
Brown with Yellow Stripe is LR -
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 26
Likes: 6
I just installed a sub in my 2017 XL STX w/8" touch screen. I used the factory plug w/WPT1212 connector for the power, remote on, and ground but no luck on the speaker connection. I'd be surprised if you don't find the same.
The LR speaker wires are right in the same location so I didn't bother figuring this one out, I just used the door speaker.
White with Green Stripe is LR +
Brown with Yellow Stripe is LR -
The LR speaker wires are right in the same location so I didn't bother figuring this one out, I just used the door speaker.
White with Green Stripe is LR +
Brown with Yellow Stripe is LR -