Refer to this Post for Hideaway Wiring and Tuning:

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/facto...48088/index37/

#365

 

It's not just you! I had the same issue with my rockford sub. Some output but not what it should be. I taped the rear spk wires instead of the factory harness now I have more then enough with the gain only half way up. It's nice to be able to turn it up or down a little with the remote control ****. I tried multiple setting in Forscan and couldn't get it working well enough for me. FYI speaker wire tap only took me about 20 minutes to do.

 

I'm running a shallow 12" and a 450WRMS amp. So I'm probably pushing a little more than the factory kicker or sony option. I'm pretty satisfied with mine. It took a lot of fiddling with wires, settings, Forscan, etc. I started real weak and subdued. enough that with the volume maxed and the gain maxed bass boost maxed, I had to touch the sub face to feel any vibrations.

I can't really tell you what I did, but it was like someone threw a switch to put out the bass. Now if I turn it up to 15, I can't hear the person talking in the back seat.


I also found that in the HU settings, there is the “Sound Optimization” menu that changes the sound processor to “optimize for all” or “optimize for driver”
This drastically changes the amount of perceived bass output to the driver. It also changes the complete dynamic of the cab space. I don’t remember which it is, but I can be sitting in the driver’s seat and it sounds nice and balanced, but if I lean forward and put my head about 8 inches from the steering wheel, the bass is much stronger and I can feel the pressure in my ears. The other “optimization” doesn’t cause this acoustic effect.

 

Well, I changed this setting back to the old:

OLD: 727-01-01-1809-1808-0071
New: 727-01-01-1808-1808-0071

And it sounds better. I'm wondering if in actuality that turned the "with kicker" back off and returned the factory speakers to their normal output. I also turned the crossover all the way up which helped as well. Even with bass boost and gain turned all the way up it still doesn't distort so I'm not sure it's optimal but it's better than where I started.

 

I was never able to get sound using the factory harness in my 2015 XL. I started with the kicker oem sub and did everything imaginable including having the dealership give it a shot but nonly cigar. I returned it and bought the Sound Ordnance B-8PTD and the wpt-1212 thinking I could just tap rear speakers for the win, however that also never worked. I finally gave up and just ran dedicated power and remote wires and finally have bass.

I now have a useless to me wpt-1212 that's ready to rock with soldered power, ground and remote wires. I didn't do anything with the sub leads they are just taped up at the moment. 25$ shipped, anybody interested?

 

I have been following this thread. I have a new Kicker HS8 powered subwoofer and I am trying to install it in my XLT Crewmax. I obtained the rear connector from [WPT-1212] Ford, and wired it up, connected it, and I get power, but the sound is barely discernable. I have flipped all the switches - Auto turn on, line level, phase to pretty much every possible configuration. I have turned up and down all three dials, as well as the remote bass level. I have the blue power LED lit. I have the remote turn on connected blue to (remote turn on Green) on the Ford [WPT-1212]connector.
I have connected the white + and the grey + to the + connector on the harness as well as the white/black and the grey/black to the (-) wire on the ford harness.
I have used Forscan to change the ACM to enable the subwoofer and have tried the 7 speaker settings as well as leaving it as unassigned on the third (bottom) ACM subwoofer module setting.
None seems to help.
Any suggestions?

 

Sounds exactly like what I've been battling. If yours is anything like mine try this:

1) only run one input to the sub. I used the grey speaker inputs.
2) turn the crossover setting all the way up.
3) in Forscan, I had crappy sound using the 7 speaker with kicker option. I couldn't set it back using plain English settings and I failed to back it up before I made changes. I read the spreadsheet several times and wound up manually setting: 727-01-01-xxx9-1808-0071 in an attempt at returning the speakers to the stock EQ settings.

Now I have decent sound. It's not awesome, but it's decent.

 

Same issue I reported earlier in this thread. Tap into the rear speaker wires and enjoy the copious amounts of bass! It took me only 20 minutes to change that part of the wiring and I couldn't be happier. Gain is less then half so I can ad some if needed.

 

You, and others, are only to tap into one speaker correct? Just the left rear with the right rear not necessary? Also, how does the "driver only occupancy" vs "all seat occupancy" stereo setting effect the sub sound since this setting dramatically changes the sound sent to the speakers?

 

I did left and right, but I think one would be fine as lower frequencies aren't typically in stereo. I didn't play with the occupancy settings. Didn't even know that was an option Lol. My guess is it would barely change the sub as low frequencies aren't as directional as mid and highs are.