So is it only those using something other than the Kicker OEM (is, like just using the 1212 harness to connect to an amp and connect to that connector inside the trim) that are getting the pop? Anyone with the non VSS Kicker getting the pop?

Also, is that connector there behind the trim on the 17s as well?

 

I installed the OEM Kicker and get the pop. It is very annoying. Does the Sony sub from the factory pop?

 

I own a 2016 XLT 502A, Sync 3, nav, non sony system. I have been given a factory sony sub/amp system and was wondering if I can place it into my truck using the WPT-1212 wiring harness??

 

Quick question for anyone who has installed the Kicker sub kit sold through the Ford dealers (VGL3Z-18808-A)... Do you have to run a power wire from the battery, or does the existing plug in the rear of the cab also provide power? I know the plug connects it to the audio system, just not sure about power.

 

good news and bad news.
wired up my amp. was having problem where the remote wire from the wpt1212 harness not powering up the amp, so I ran the remote from fuse 23 from passenger side kick panel using the add a circuit thing. amp powers on.
but still no sound.

Heres my connection setup:
in the factory sub plug, i have the wpt1212 plugged in. the wpt1212 wires are spliced to a kicker line out converter. then rca cables from the line out converter to amp
no sound.

i plugged in a rca to aux cable from my phone to amp and i got sound from sub. so i guess amp and sub work.
but no sound when using regular rca from vehicle.

I will purchase multimeter to test connections. ill also try a different rca cable. if all else fails, i guess i will do away with the wpt1212 harness and the line out converter and just cut and splice the rca cable to speaker cables.

any suggestions?

 

No power wire needed for it. The after market Kicker Substage/Powerstage is the kit that wires up like any other after market system. Power, remote etc.

 

A cheap multi-meter from somewhere like Harbor Freight will do the trick. Low level output voltage is generally ~4v AC and high level factory is 10-20 v AC. If you use high level you will need the LOC, either that or the amp needs to have high level input. If you do not get any output at all you need to check your forscan settings.


Personally I set forscan to use "external speaker" rather than "external sub" as I figured that the "external sub" setting would impose a factory crossover that my sub amp did not need to do battle with. The output from the wpt was low level and I set my amp about midway on the gain adjust to get the 26 volt output for the sub as JL recommended. Your sub may need slightly different voltage output as measured with no speaker connected.


What we need is a definitive thread on all the variations that are available with forscan and someone with a scope to test where clipping levels occur etc. We are all just guessing what the forscan fordspeak settings really mean in audio language.

 

Thanks for all the help. I got off work went to Lowe's to get a multimeter and a work light as it was already dark. I arrived home determined to finish this project. I have worked on cars before, installed various electrical equipment so I was baffled that I could not make this work. I set up the lights and began reading instruction watching videos on how to use the multimeter. Ironically, I had never used one before.
It got even later and decided to call it a night. No progress made.
Next morning after watching more videos and going though forums yet again decided to just skip the Wpt1212 harness and factory sub harder and tap directly into rear speakers.
Few minutes later, amp was thumping! Yay! Well, that was easy. Lol. Jeez. Idk what I was doing wrong with the other connection setup but at least I got it working. Very satisfied with sound.
Returning wpt 1212 harness and obd mx adapter

 

Here's my setup in case any one wants ideas or is troubleshooting.



Parts list :
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 Prime R2S Single 10-Inch Shallow Loaded Enclosure
Kicker CK4 Complete 4 Gauge OFC CK-Series 2-Channel Amplifier Installation Kit
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter
Alpine RUX-**** Remote Bass Level Control **** for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6
Auto Zone
ATR add a circuit 2-10a

Did not use /returned :

ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows
Motorcraft WPT1212 Multi-Function Switch Connector Assembly

Connection setup:
-Power from battery through passenger side gromet. Pita to feed through gromet.
-amp ground to existing bolt next to rear seat bracket. Sanded paint off for better connection.
-Remote wire tapped into fuse #23 via ATR add a circuit in passenger kick panel
-tapped into BOTH rear speaker wires in BOTH b pillars. They are the pairs that are intertwined.
Driver /left
White w green stripe (+)
Brown W yellow stripe (-)
Passenger /right
Brown W white stripe (+)
Brown w blue stripe (-)
-ran the tapped wires into each of the Kicker line out converter wires. Also grounded the brown wire to same spot where I grounded the amp ground
-connected everything
-cut wall carpet so sub can fit better behind seat
-I have sub slightly tilted for now. Will need to cut center bolt and perhaps add 2x4 or something. Currently resting next to bolt closest to outside of truck, while other sids rest on top of bolt closer to center of truck. This gives enough clearance since part of sub is sitting lower and top of box is narrower.
I hope that makes sense and helps out others. I had read several posts /threads where people were experiencing same problems. I could not get the wpt 1212 to sub factory harness method working for the life of me. I was even thinking of tapping directly into factory sub harness wires (skipping wpt 1212 harness) instead of b pillars but just didn't feel like going though that trouble since I could not determine what was not working initially (1212 harness, factory sub, forscan settings). In hindsight, I would have gone this route from beginning (tapping to bpillar speaker wires).

 

lots of other cool stuff to do with this