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Haven't had anytime to look at this and it's nearly -20 every night after work.
Managed to go throw my multimeter on the remote and saw it's putting out 6.44-6.56 volts.
so the forscan procedure worked and my harness worked. I appear to have two problems that are both caused by my older amp.
1) the remote on the amp needs 12V to turn on. Newer amps will switch on in most cases with 6V.
2) The outputs on the truck I think are not compatible with my old amp. The signal isn't strong enough; think they are line level out of the truck instead of speaker level so the sub barely moves.
A new amp ought to cure this; but I was hoping to buy a mini 4 channel for behind the HU first.....miss my bass.
I finally got my sub activated at the dealer yesterday. The setup I have is the 8" factory sub and amp out of my old 2004 Explorer. It has a similar looking amp to the kicker one.I used the factory wiring from the truck to connect. It works fine, nothing mind blowing but I have that dreaded pop when I open the doors. I know that the explorer amp also used 6volt to turn on. Also a little buzz from the sub when volume is turned right down. What could be the problem? Easy solution? Thanks in advance.
Got everything here to do the install (MX, 1212 harness and Kicker Hideaway) but since it's 20 deg I guess it will wait for a few days.
I understand the subwoofer needs to be enabled in Forscan as the first setting. For the second setting, it seems like it changes from high level (aka speaker) "not configured" output to low level (aka RCA) "7 speaker with kicker" output.
Which leads me to a question: For those that found "not configured" to be better sounding than the "7 speaker with kicker" I am wondering, were you also changing the hi-lo input level switch on the Hideaway?
It would seem that "7 speaker with kicker" would be the hands down better option based on the programming from the factory, which I would think would take into account the addition of extra bass from the sub and add a crossover frequency and/or boost the treble/mid (or possibly reduce the bass) on the other speakers. But only if the input level on the Hideaway was set to "lo" would this sound good.
Or maybe that's not how "7 speaker with kicker" works?
EDIT: also worth mentioning, in the Hideaway manual it says if the Auto Turn On switch is set to DC, the REM terminal (our "remote turn on" wire) will be energized with 12V out. Those of you having issues with DC not working might have some success by removing the "REM" wire. But if you're using the factory sub connector REM should be the better option anyway.
Last edited by lambinator; Jan 7, 2017 at 01:15 PM.
Reason: to edit
For trucks with Sony, the truck has a sub channel output plug behind the drivers side rear seat, for trucks without Sony, there is no sub output. You need a line-out converter or dsp.
Hey guys just put mine in. Not positive if I have my wiring from the factory harness correct. My amp is a Pioneer GM-D8601 and it came with rca cables with 4 wires.
Factory harness
Violet +
Green -
Rca
Red tip has red and black
White tip has white and black
Mine are connect by twisting the two - Black wires together from the Rca's together, and connecting them to the Green-, from the oem sub harness. Then Twisting the Red & White + wires together, on the Rca and connecting them to the Purple +, from the oem sub harness.
Is this correct?
Then I am not sure if I have the wires from the sub box to the output correct. I have them wire to the +/- next to one another. But should they be wired to the far + and far -. I believe this would create a bridge to allow full power to the single sub.
The setup is working but I am just not sure if this is the optimal way. I have 4ga wire running to the battery and have activated the supercrew 7 speaker with subwoofer configuration and external aux. Subwoofer
Last edited by brenth561; Jan 8, 2017 at 11:18 PM.
Preparing to do the Kicker Hideaway Install behind the LT Rear passenger seat. I have ordered the WPT-1212 harness to mate with the Factory plug. I have a few questions about this install:
1) Best way to route the wires from the Factory harness to the Hideaway.
2) Correct wiring instructions Factory to WPT-1212
3) Correct Forscan Settings
4) What do you do with the remote wire from Sub?
5) Best settings for the Sub for optimum performance
Preparing to do the Kicker Hideaway Install behind the LT Rear passenger seat. I have ordered the WPT-1212 harness to mate with the Factory plug. I have a few questions about this install:
1) Best way to route the wires from the Factory harness to the Hideaway.
2) Correct wiring instructions Factory to WPT-1212
3) Correct Forscan Settings
4) What do you do with the remote wire from Sub?
5) Best settings for the Sub for optimum performance
1. Route the wires behind the same trim piece that hides the factory harness. I've attached a picture.
2. with the 1212 harness facing away and wires facing toward you it's this...top is where the clip is that secures it to the harness.
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
All other wires are not used. Tape them off.
3. In forscan set auxillary subwoofer enabled. You can also turn on the 7 speaker kicker option. I ended up turning it back off.
4. I didn't use the remote. What I did to tune it in is set set bass and treble to 50% on the headunit. Then I turned the volume up to 25 on the headunit, and gradually turned up the gain on the sub until I heard distortion, then dialed it back a notch. Bass boost and xover frequency settings are going to be something you'll just have to play with to get it like you want it.
1. Route the wires behind the same trim piece that hides the factory harness. I've attached a picture.
2. with the 1212 harness facing away and wires facing toward you it's this...top is where the clip is that secures it to the harness.
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
All other wires are not used. Tape them off.
3. In forscan set auxillary subwoofer enabled. You can also turn on the 7 speaker kicker option. I ended up turning it back off.
4. I didn't use the remote. What I did to tune it in is set set bass and treble to 50% on the headunit. Then I turned the volume up to 25 on the headunit, and gradually turned up the gain on the sub until I heard distortion, then dialed it back a notch. Bass boost and xover frequency settings are going to be something you'll just have to play with to get it like you want it.
Thank you for your prompt reply and all the hard work by everyone on this forum. I will document and take pictures of my install to post.
One other question, I have not used the Forscan program yet but I am setup and good to go. I understand the 1st step is to back up all the As Built Data. Is that backed up in the Forscan Program or on your computer?
