Factory sub
For those of you with the HideAway or equivalent, at what volume do you really notice there's a sub installed? It's a got a little bit of thump to it, but I have to turn up the volume to 17-18 to really notice it. Certainly no where near as much punch as the Substage that was in my '13 (shallow 10", 200W amp) It's still better than no sub, but I'd really have hard time recommending it to anyone looking for more than a little bass enhancement. Maybe mine is a dud?
Gains, boosts, xovers,etc have all been adjusted, checked, although I really don't notice the bass **** doing much of anything.
Gains, boosts, xovers,etc have all been adjusted, checked, although I really don't notice the bass **** doing much of anything.
For those of you with the HideAway or equivalent, at what volume do you really notice there's a sub installed? It's a got a little bit of thump to it, but I have to turn up the volume to 17-18 to really notice it. Certainly no where near as much punch as the Substage that was in my '13 (shallow 10", 200W amp) It's still better than no sub, but I'd really have hard time recommending it to anyone looking for more than a little bass enhancement. Maybe mine is a dud?
Gains, boosts, xovers,etc have all been adjusted, checked, although I really don't notice the bass **** doing much of anything.
Gains, boosts, xovers,etc have all been adjusted, checked, although I really don't notice the bass **** doing much of anything.
Ok so I'm in the middle of installing the hideaway using the factory sub connector and enabling the output. A couple things
1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.
2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.
2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
Ok so I'm in the middle of installing the hideaway using the factory sub connector and enabling the output. A couple things
1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.
2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.
2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
Ok so I'm in the middle of installing the hideaway using the factory sub connector and enabling the output. A couple things
1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.
2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.
2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
Hey I bought a Kicker subwoofer meant for this truck but mine is a bit different. I have two smaller wires (one green and one brown) which I am guessing are the + and - for the sub. Then I have a larger black and a larger red wire. That is it. I'm assuming black is ground and red is hot. This means I do not have the remote wire. Does this seem alright?
Hey I bought a Kicker subwoofer meant for this truck but mine is a bit different. I have two smaller wires (one green and one brown) which I am guessing are the + and - for the sub. Then I have a larger black and a larger red wire. That is it. I'm assuming black is ground and red is hot. This means I do not have the remote wire. Does this seem alright?
Install instructions for the retail one are here:
http://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/vs...2020160502.pdf
To answer your question, no, you shouldn't need a remote wire if you have the retail Kicker.
Curious Question, for the oem style Kicker Substage Only! If you buy this, the only connection needed, is to the oem sub connector?
Then a trip to the dealer, to Enable the sub connector. Unless you have Forscan, and can Enable the connector yourself.
I had the Substage, in my 12 and had to run Power to engine, Ground to p.s. kickpanel. Then tap front speaker wires, for music signal.
None, of what had to be done on the previous Gens., should have to be done on the new body style. As, Im led to believe you just plug the Kicker Substage into the oem Sub Connector, behind the rear pillar and your done in the 15s and 16s?
Then a trip to the dealer, to Enable the sub connector. Unless you have Forscan, and can Enable the connector yourself.
I had the Substage, in my 12 and had to run Power to engine, Ground to p.s. kickpanel. Then tap front speaker wires, for music signal.
None, of what had to be done on the previous Gens., should have to be done on the new body style. As, Im led to believe you just plug the Kicker Substage into the oem Sub Connector, behind the rear pillar and your done in the 15s and 16s?





