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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 09:52 AM
  #241  
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Anyone have experience with the JL ACP10LG W3v3? Looking to install a sub in the near future.
Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread.
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #242  
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For those of you with the HideAway or equivalent, at what volume do you really notice there's a sub installed? It's a got a little bit of thump to it, but I have to turn up the volume to 17-18 to really notice it. Certainly no where near as much punch as the Substage that was in my '13 (shallow 10", 200W amp) It's still better than no sub, but I'd really have hard time recommending it to anyone looking for more than a little bass enhancement. Maybe mine is a dud?
Gains, boosts, xovers,etc have all been adjusted, checked, although I really don't notice the bass **** doing much of anything.
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 02:26 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by ginnjuice
For those of you with the HideAway or equivalent, at what volume do you really notice there's a sub installed? It's a got a little bit of thump to it, but I have to turn up the volume to 17-18 to really notice it. Certainly no where near as much punch as the Substage that was in my '13 (shallow 10", 200W amp) It's still better than no sub, but I'd really have hard time recommending it to anyone looking for more than a little bass enhancement. Maybe mine is a dud?
Gains, boosts, xovers,etc have all been adjusted, checked, although I really don't notice the bass **** doing much of anything.
Partially fixed this. Adjusted gains & xover on my Alpine KTP-445U, amped door speakers were overpowering the sub. Adjustments have me satisfied enough for now.
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 09:38 PM
  #244  
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Ok so I'm in the middle of installing the hideaway using the factory sub connector and enabling the output. A couple things

1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.

2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 10:09 PM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by zamboniman
Ok so I'm in the middle of installing the hideaway using the factory sub connector and enabling the output. A couple things

1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.

2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
Reset your ACM to stock that way you disable/"error" out the kicker audio option. Like you I found it to be more hindering than helpful when I did my audio install. I also found that using that rear connector was a waste of time. I ran my own remote turn on from fuse 23 (you can also use 30).
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 03:39 PM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by zamboniman
Ok so I'm in the middle of installing the hideaway using the factory sub connector and enabling the output. A couple things

1. I'm trying to use the "dc offset" to turn on the amp with the speaker signal. It's behaving exactly opposite of how I think it should work. Meaning it will turn on the amp when the truck is set to accessory power but as soon as I start the truck it powers off. Here's the funnier thing it will sometimes turn on when the truck does its auto shutoff. Quite the head scratcher.

2. I'm not convinced setting to kicker 7 speaker is better sounding. It cetainly brightens and cranks the EQ curve which can be normalized by dropping the mid and treble most of the way but to me it also sounds as it is distorting the signal as well almost like its clipping the signal.
I tried using dc offset and had the same symptoms you describe. I switched to using the remote turn on wire and it fixed it for me. I installed the hideaway also.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 03:47 AM
  #247  
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Hey I bought a Kicker subwoofer meant for this truck but mine is a bit different. I have two smaller wires (one green and one brown) which I am guessing are the + and - for the sub. Then I have a larger black and a larger red wire. That is it. I'm assuming black is ground and red is hot. This means I do not have the remote wire. Does this seem alright?
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 08:03 AM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by baxzilla
Hey I bought a Kicker subwoofer meant for this truck but mine is a bit different. I have two smaller wires (one green and one brown) which I am guessing are the + and - for the sub. Then I have a larger black and a larger red wire. That is it. I'm assuming black is ground and red is hot. This means I do not have the remote wire. Does this seem alright?
I'm assuming you bought the retail Kicker VSS Substage; not the OEM one.
Install instructions for the retail one are here:




http://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/vs...2020160502.pdf


To answer your question, no, you shouldn't need a remote wire if you have the retail Kicker.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 12:32 PM
  #249  
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dang it's not loading. but that seems like it should be what I am looking for!
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 12:52 PM
  #250  
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Curious Question, for the oem style Kicker Substage Only! If you buy this, the only connection needed, is to the oem sub connector?

Then a trip to the dealer, to Enable the sub connector. Unless you have Forscan, and can Enable the connector yourself.

I had the Substage, in my 12 and had to run Power to engine, Ground to p.s. kickpanel. Then tap front speaker wires, for music signal.

None, of what had to be done on the previous Gens., should have to be done on the new body style. As, Im led to believe you just plug the Kicker Substage into the oem Sub Connector, behind the rear pillar and your done in the 15s and 16s?
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