DeltaNu1142

This all started when I found a screaming deal on a Fab Fours Black Steel Elite bumper, shortly after I bought a Magnetic PTM bumper for my truck (and before I even sold my old Platinum one). I already knew that the ACC radar module in the bumper wasn't compatible with a steel aftermarket bumper, and Google guided me to a couple of different options to buy an Addictive Desert Designs relocation bracket for no less than $250 anywhere I could find it. The relocation bracket puts the radar module behind the upper part of the plastic grill where it'll still be able to "see" the road ahead.

I had a couple of conversations with Fab Fours (Brittani @ FF was a huge help) about the use of fogs, what's in the box, etc. The subject of the ACC module never came up because, in all my searching, ADD had the sole solution. The day before my bumper was set to ship, I was asking about the prerunner bar interfering with the camera, and I mentioned that I'd have to relocate the radar. She said, "Oh, we've got a bracket for that." !! It's not mentioned anywhere on the Fab Fours website, but she got me a part number to give to the distributor. $120 later, I had added the bracket to my order.

Yesterday, my bumper arrived via FedEx freight. I've pulled everything out of the box, and I'll be installing sometime over the weekend. I thought there might be interest in whether this bracket will work, since after searching these forums, it seems no one has successfully relocated their ACC module.

I'll post updates when I start the installation.



I was on the fence about getting the prerunner bar because I thought it might jut out and make my truck longer and because I thought it would block the front camera... but FF assured me that you can't see the bar in the camera view, so I went ahead with it. And as it turns out, the bar doesn't extend beyond the bumper anyway.



Relocation bracket part number M3850:

DeltaNu1142

OK, I tackled the bumper install this morning. The very first thing I did was turn off ACC in the menu, and disable Collision Warning. Since I'm not installing my grille this morning, I'm going to be zip-tying my radar module up and I don't want it to throw any errors. My hope is that this will not cause any issues. My understanding is that once the system faults, then it's too late to shut it off.

Here's where I started:



The bumper came off quickly, since I had just installed this one a few weeks ago. The tow loops are a huge pain, though. The covers slide off easily once the bumper is removed, but the fasteners are resistant all the way to the last thread.



I tied the radar module to the trans cooler hose and a loop in the bottom of the radiator shutters. It definitely won't function, but it won't move and I can leave it plugged in until I can get the relocation bracket installed.



Here are the OEM fogs installed in the Fab Fours bumper. A 90-degree Phillips screwdriver and this hard plastic panel tool, for prying without causing damage, came in really handy. I like considerate design. This is put together well, with plenty of space to change out the bulb. One of the fogs is in there really solid... the other one is a little loose. I'll probably put some silicone on it to make sure it doesn't rattle too badly.







Two brackets get installed hand-tight into the frame where the tow loops used to be. The bumper hangs on those brackets. Here's the bumper, sitting on a cooler and some shims.



Hardware tightened, cooler removed:



And a test of the fog lights. I need to get some LEDs for the fogs:



Inside the truck, I have no errors (yet) on my ACC. I don't think I'm going to set the cruise control until after I have my other grille installed. And... about that front camera...

FF told me that you couldn't see the prerunner bar in the front view. They said there might be a slight shadow. Hmmmm... maybe they thought I said, "Can you see anything except the prerunner bar in the camera?" Well... it looks good, and the camera still works, so, whatever. I'm going with it. Maybe I'll just put a stupid bumper sticker on the rear side of the prerunner bar.



I'm not finished yet. There were eight fastener sets missing for the front cover and the tow hooks. I'm either going to wait on the distributor to send them, or just go pick some up. Overall, this install was pretty easy. Absolutely critical were that 90-degree Phillips head screwdriver for the fogs, that panel puller for prying the fogs and removing the OEM rubber bumper trim under the headlights, and a 19mm wrench. Sockets won't do it; the back sides of those brackets don't leave enough clearance.

I'll post more photos when I have the cover installed.

DeltaNu1142

OK, $20 in grade 8 hardware later, and I'm finished with the bumper portion of this project. In this photo, the bumper looks maligned, but it's level.



It definitely makes the truck a little longer.



Here's a look at the front crash bar from the front, and from the side. I contemplated removing it, but I think it'll stay:





The camera blockage isn't that bad. I'll probably get used to it.

Apples

Nice!

That's a beefy bumper, there. How about a full profile photo of the truck?

DeltaNu1142

I'm done taking photos for the day, but you might be able to get an idea by looking at my build thread.

I'll post a profile at some point in the future.

freman dave

Beautiful! Nice work, thanks for the write up!

Apples

Ah, yes. Thank you. You also have a PM re tow hooks...


This looks fantastic. I've run darker Sports Bronze wheels on silver cars. I'm a fan of bronze wheels on silver or grey. I cheaped out and went with "gunmetal"-centers ION alloy wheels just to get the XLT stockers off of my Magnetic Metallic truck.


I like what you've done with it. Nice work.

DeltaNu1142

OK, although it's been several weeks since I installed the relocation bracket and radar module, it wasn't until this morning that I dared to turn on the ACC and attempt the calibration procedure. I procrastinated mainly because I was worried it wouldn't work. But all is good now, so it's time to document everything.

As far as I know, no one else has done this on their truck. If they have, they didn't document it anywhere or it's well-hidden.

As a reminder from above:
Turning the collision warning and switching from adaptive cruise to normal cruise means that you can run your truck indefinitely with a non-aligned radar module with no error messages, as long as the module is connected.

When I got my grille back from the paint shop, I went to work on the relocation bracket. The goal is to place the module somewhere with a clear view (i.e., not impeded by metal) to the road ahead. My bumper with the prerunner bar makes this a bit challenging. I selected the location indicated in the photo below for the module:



The Fab Four instructions have the bracket installed on the shutter frame. First I marked the area with tape and a Sharpie, and drilled the holes:



This photo shows the bottom of the shutter frame. Clearance for the fasteners was a bit of a problem, but I worked with it. Nevermind the old emblem:



These long bolts were the only ones I had. I test-fit them, then cut them shorter and installed the bracket:





Now to install the radar module. If you're not an idiot, then you kept all of the studs and other fasteners for the module. Through the process of moving and selling a variety of parts, I lost all of the fasteners, so I used what I had. NOT ideal, and a large part of my concern about starting calibration procedure:



Lastly, I cut a notch for the module harness. Once the grille and shutters are rejoined, you have to be able to get the plug to the module. I think in the end, I was too generous with my cut. I could have gotten away with a smaller notch:





Once done, I put everything back together and plugged everything back in. Then I drove around error-free until I built up the courage to try to calibrate the CCM.

I'm limited to ten images... continued in the next post...

DeltaNu1142

I got into the truck, restored the collision warning, and then switched back from normal to adaptive cruise with no errors. I connected the new FORScan beta (thanks livinitup!) and selected the calibration procedure:



Once you start the calibration, you leave it up and don't turn off the truck off. You drive (as instructed by FORScan) over 30 mph on straight roads until the message disappears. I spent thirty minutes driving around, and the message was still up. Lots of people report, with the module in the factory location, that calibration completes in a few minutes. I was concerned that it was going to fail on timeout. I was actually on the phone and not looking at the dash when the message disappeared, and on the FORScan screen this showed up:



Success! I went back home and parked. This is the DTC that remained in the CCM after calibration:



And, after clearing that:



Bear in mind I had a fully-functional ACC system before trying this, so I didn't have to do any configuring in FORScan other than calibration. I'm sure the process would be the same otherwise. Thanks for everyone that posted helpful information in the ACC thread.

DeltaNu1142

A couple of notes I didn't include in the posts above:

• I didn't attempt to level the module at all... and as a reminder, the bracket is installed on plastic. The alignment might actually be more forgiving than people think. Time will tell.
• On the way home, I tested the adaptive cruise funtion at all following distances. I let it bring me almost to a complete stop at a stop light. Everything seems to be working as it was from the factory.
• I have not yet triggered the collision warning. It was always a little over-sensitive, anyway, so I guess I'll see eventually whether that has changed.