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I'm wanting to do the Square BI-XENON: MORIMOTO MINI D2S STAGE III projectors
Want them to handle low and high and install a "dummy" projector in the place of the high beam. Is there a cheap square projector out there?
Don't really want to spend $140 on projectors that are just going to sit there.
Maybe ill add a demon eye in red to match the truck but that's it.
I'm wanting to do the Square BI-XENON: MORIMOTO MINI D2S STAGE III projectors
Did you ever finish this? I'm looking at doing the square mini D2S 4.0 in place of my lows. Everyone seems to run mini H1s. Curious if it went smoothly. Looks like TRS sells a square 4.0 kit as their "F150" retrofit package.
Bumping an old thread. Just traded my 11 f150 for a 16 so its time to build another set of headlights I used steel stick on my h1 7.0 reflectors instead of the silicone gasket on my 2011 truck. Is steel stick required here too or is the silicon gasket working for everyone that's running mini H1 7.0 on the 15+?
I used the Mini H1 7.0 on my 2003 Tahoe and along with some brackets made for the DEPO projector halogen headlights, it made install a breeze and the rotation was spot on level. I also used Mini H1 7.0 on my previous truck, a Nissan Frontier. The Mini H1 makes for an easy install because of the smaller size of the mounting shaft. Requires very little if any modification to the reflector bowls and the projector shrouds also mount directly to the projector flange using screws. Very user friendly.
I plan to soon start installing projectors into my 18 XL but this time I will either be be using Morimoto D2S 5.0 projectors along with BI-LED projectors in the high beam bucket or maybe use the BI-LED projectors in both the low beam and high beam position for a bright *** quad high beam projector setup.
The D2S will require that I open the bulb opening on the reflector bowl as the mounting shaft is bigger than that of the Mini H1. The BI-LED units have a smaller mounting shaft just like the mini H1 and so would not require this. The D2S would allow for easy bulb changes due to its design but the BI-LED units would require opening the lights again should the LEDs fail. I haven't decided which low beam setup I'm going with just yet.
I am leaning toward the D2S in low beam along with the BI-LED with the shield removed for the high beam.
I am thinking about doing the retrofit kn my 2016. I am thinking about using the Morimoto square D2S. Anyone use these yet? Wondering how they fit and function. I read that the round D2S are a PITA to fit in the housing. I have Mini H1s in my Yukon, they are ok, but not what I had hopped.
Got one headlight stripped. Did 235-240 for 10 min, then 6 min each time I stuck it back in. Stripped the permaseal with a flat screwdriver and heating it up. One down one to go. Came apart pretty easy.
Ok, I bought some aftermarket headlights and got them opened up, I didn’t want to mess with the OEM ones and screw them up. Anyway I decided to go with Morimoto H1 7.0. I still need to get ballasts, bulbs and a relay harness. My question is will I need to get some canbus ballasts? Does a 2016 have that issue? Also what are some good HID H1 bulbs?
Broke my adjuster on the pass side light. Gonna scuff and JB weld it and maybe steel stick on top of that since it's hidden. Hopefully it holds. Not sure how I broke it. Also do the factory covers work on the back of the lights or are you all running larger ones? I have a set of 80mm I can use.
08-07-2017, 04:37 PM
I used steel stick on my h1 7.0 reflectors instead of the silicone gasket on my 2011 truck. Is steel stick required here too or is the silicon gasket working for everyone that's running mini H1 7.0 on the 15+?
