Disable auto start/stop for good
#53
In principle, I don't care about Auto start stop one way or another. I have driven rental MB's in Germany that had it, and it worked ok. I won't debate the mileage improvement because I have never compared.
But, Ford's implementation seems pretty rough. It reacts quickly enough. There is no way I can get my foot from the brake to the gas before it is ready to go.
However, it seems to work or not work at random, and under exactly the same conditions. No wheel turned, nothing different. Light 1 on the same road, it works, light 2 100 yards down the same road, it doesn't.
It also has a bad habit of cycling on and off at a light if I even relax my foot pressure just slightly. IT is like it is too sensitive. If I shift my foot because of a long light or train, it starts back up, then shuts off again very quickly. So far, my record is only 4 start stops in one light, but I am trying to go for the gold. It is incredibly annoying.
Short of jumper wires (no pun intended), I am wondering if are other ways it can be disabled?
When I test drove the truck over night, running several errands putting about 45 miles on it, the A.S. didn't work at all. Every light I came to, the indicator light for non- function came on. I had not pressed the on/off switch. In fact, I tried to cycle that switch to see if could get it to work and it did not.
Then, when I picked up the truck, it worked normally from the time I waited to pull out of the dealer lot.
But, Ford's implementation seems pretty rough. It reacts quickly enough. There is no way I can get my foot from the brake to the gas before it is ready to go.
However, it seems to work or not work at random, and under exactly the same conditions. No wheel turned, nothing different. Light 1 on the same road, it works, light 2 100 yards down the same road, it doesn't.
It also has a bad habit of cycling on and off at a light if I even relax my foot pressure just slightly. IT is like it is too sensitive. If I shift my foot because of a long light or train, it starts back up, then shuts off again very quickly. So far, my record is only 4 start stops in one light, but I am trying to go for the gold. It is incredibly annoying.
Short of jumper wires (no pun intended), I am wondering if are other ways it can be disabled?
When I test drove the truck over night, running several errands putting about 45 miles on it, the A.S. didn't work at all. Every light I came to, the indicator light for non- function came on. I had not pressed the on/off switch. In fact, I tried to cycle that switch to see if could get it to work and it did not.
Then, when I picked up the truck, it worked normally from the time I waited to pull out of the dealer lot.
#54
If someone is willing to experiment, another way that *MIGHT* work, is instead of installing a jumper wire across the switch contacts, is to install a capacitor across the switch contacts. Of course it would need to be large enough value, etc. (a swag is 10uF)
I've seen that done a few times in different applications that is used to simulate a "button press" on application of power.
It would only work if the circuit goes "dead" when the truck is off (so the capacitor could discharge). If that circuit is kept alive even when truck is off, the cap trick won't work.
If it works, then it should simulate a single button press on vehicle start up (disabling start-stop), while still allowing the button to be used to activate/deactivate start/stop as desired.
-Alan
I've seen that done a few times in different applications that is used to simulate a "button press" on application of power.
It would only work if the circuit goes "dead" when the truck is off (so the capacitor could discharge). If that circuit is kept alive even when truck is off, the cap trick won't work.
If it works, then it should simulate a single button press on vehicle start up (disabling start-stop), while still allowing the button to be used to activate/deactivate start/stop as desired.
-Alan
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heidrickla (11-27-2016)
#55
If someone is willing to experiment, another way that *MIGHT* work, is instead of installing a jumper wire across the switch contacts, is to install a capacitor across the switch contacts. Of course it would need to be large enough value, etc. (a swag is 10uF) I've seen that done a few times in different applications that is used to simulate a "button press" on application of power. It would only work if the circuit goes "dead" when the truck is off (so the capacitor could discharge). If that circuit is kept alive even when truck is off, the cap trick won't work. If it works, then it should simulate a single button press on vehicle start up (disabling start-stop), while still allowing the button to be used to activate/deactivate start/stop as desired. -Alan
That's a very good idea, we could take it a step farther and buy stock connectors for the switch and harness, then engineer the capacitor into the connectors.
With this set up we could make a plug and play adaptor.
#56
Sounds like it is defective on your vehicle. I've had the new truck for a week and now have a good feel for it. I know exactly how much pressure applied on the brake pedal will activate it. If I'm coming up to a stop that I know will be short, I just ease up on the pressure while stopped and the engine stop doesn't activate. If you are applying the same amount of pressure on the brakes every time with different results I'd take it in and get it checked out.
#57
Sounds like it is defective on your vehicle. I've had the new truck for a week and now have a good feel for it. I know exactly how much pressure applied on the brake pedal will activate it. If I'm coming up to a stop that I know will be short, I just ease up on the pressure while stopped and the engine stop doesn't activate. If you are applying the same amount of pressure on the brakes every time with different results I'd take it in and get it checked out.
#58
Ouch. Well, I hope you have a competent dealer to help you with these problems. If not, I'd probably take the hit and trade it in for something else at another dealership. I checked reviews online before going to my dealership and they seem to be good guys. Time will tell.
#59
Senior Member
Just a hypothetical for the nay Sayers to this mod. Say 3 years and 36000 miles down the road and you have saved the planet and maybe $25 in fuel and you are at the dealer shelling out $500 for a new starter or maybe $1.000 for a new ring gear sleep well you have done your part.
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#60
"Just a hypothetical for the nay Sayers to this mod. Say 3 years and 36000 miles down the road and you have saved the planet and maybe $25 in fuel and you are at the dealer shelling out $500 for a new starter or maybe $1.000 for a new ring gear sleep well you have done your part."
You don't suppose Ford took into account extra starter wear when engineering the start-stop feature? They engineered oil remaining up in the engine slightly longer during start-stop so it's difficult to imagine their not taking additional starter wear into account as well.
You don't suppose Ford took into account extra starter wear when engineering the start-stop feature? They engineered oil remaining up in the engine slightly longer during start-stop so it's difficult to imagine their not taking additional starter wear into account as well.
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87ssp (10-18-2018)