kbroderick

It's much easier to get the pull wire through to the fusebox if you remove the white sound dampening. I ran mine that way (reached down with a stiff copper wire, something like 8- or 10-gauge), and pulled the hardwire kit up since the 12V -> 5V conversion box is connected to the middle of it. That also made it relatively easy to run the wire with the OEM white wire near the windshield, sharing the same set of wire-management clips to keep it well out of the way of the air bag. With the fuse box open and the upper glove box removed, it was relatively easy to get the wire through cleanly. I initially was trying to figure out alternate routing behind the dash for another wire, and it's crowded back there.

gingrbredman

I have looked through a lot of the videos on the SD card, and haven't seen any bouncing, other than when the roads have been rough and the whole truck is moving. The Blendmount can be finicky with all the adjustment screws, but once I locked it down, it hadn't moved. I do also like the stick on mount, though would change the adhesive to a black one so it would blend in better.

gingrbredman

Nice work providing a few tips for others looking to tackle a project like this

jbone36

I'm going to resurrect this thread. Anyone here having problems with their camera turning off when auto start / stop is active, even with it hardwired to the passenger fuse panel? My Viofo camera uses a capacitor instead of a battery, so it shuts off immediately once A/SS is active and that can be problematic while I'm a sitting duck at an intersection. Is there a better fuse to tap? Ideally, one that isn't constant power and one that doesn't drop power when A/SS is engaged?

gthrift

I haven't noticed if mine is shutting off or not. Mine is battery powered but the battery is old and only last about 30 seconds.

Which fuse did you tap? I used #35 for mine and will have to pay attention on my drive home.

jbone36

garnish

I bought one of the cheap hardwire kits and put it in my '15 SCAB. I actually wired it to the plug in the overhead console in about 10 minutes total to install the camera and hard-wire kit. There's a convenient +12V line that is switched and I experience the same shutting-off of the camera when A/SS is active. About 30 seconds after the engine shuts down, the camera loses power. I'm assuming that its internal capacitor is running the camera and then finally drains. Now, two months after installing the camera, the hardwire kit gave up so is no longer powering the camera. Possibly to coincide with the -31C daily lows we've been experiencing.

CLT_4T9R

skinnyb

I believe I used fuse 37 as well IIRC. Mine has a battery that powers on for 30 seconds when it detects shock but only stays on when it has constant power. Not sure if it kicks off with AS/S since I disabled it the day after I got mine. Can't stand useless nanny wizardry that has virtually no impact on efficiency.

Vanteer