View Poll Results: Cooling Seats - Are Your Seat Backs Working Properly?
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Cooling Seats issue and TSB feedback
02-25-2016, 07:50 PM
#3221
Senior Member
As it's not the proper season here yet,,, and this is probably going to be a seasonal thing we will be doing along with removing and installing the air dam every fall and spring I'll be waiting till the snow is long gone.
02-26-2016, 09:16 AM
#3222
Senior Member
02-26-2016, 09:21 AM
#3223
02-26-2016, 10:26 AM
#3224
Senior Member
02-26-2016, 11:31 AM
#3225
Senior Member
02-26-2016, 04:20 PM
#3226
Just ordered my kit intake/exhaust for both seats. I'll post my thoughts once installed. Anyone have any thoughts at all on the kit so far? Can you feel a major difference? I'm warm natured so in my past vehicles I have seat coolers on if its warmer than 50 degrees outside, and I'm tired of sweating in these seats lol.
02-27-2016, 10:22 PM
#3227
Well, I hate to defend a lazy tech, but those Fritos are pretty money
02-29-2016, 01:39 PM
#3229
02-29-2016, 10:56 PM
#3230
Over the weekend I installed the intake and exhaust kits as I had not had the TSB done. It is not warm enough in Ohio to see how they worked. They do fit well.
Tim's instructions are spot on. I did not take any pictures as he has already provided them.
Sadly I am not any better than some Ford tech's as I ruined the passenger side inside zipper even though Tim's instructions advised to take your time with them. I broke 2-3 teeth off the zipper and will let you know next week if a local upholstery shop can install a new zipper. The local Ford dealer quoted $200 for a new seat back cover-cover only.
FWIW, here are a few tips that I can give on the install:
Have good lighting. Need 6MM torx, needle nose pliers, 12-14 gauge electrical wire (1-2') , and a razor blade.
Your power seat is your friend so use it to put the seat in different positions so you can do the work in each step.
Before you can detach the bungy straps from the bottom of the seat, you have to release two wire plugs from the bottom of the seat by pulling down on them as the bungy straps attach above the wire plugs. As Tim stated, the wire plugs do not have to be pulled apart (unplugged).
J channels-they came apart and back together easier than expected. They are about 12-14" wide and run the width of the seat at the bottom that holds the lower back of the seat cover to the bottom. Just pull/squeeze the 2 materials together and twist the 2 J Channels a part from each other. I just started at one side. Basically the seat back cover and bottom of the cover has a plastic J on each end that holds the 2 sections of the materials together. Like Tim stated, hard to explain.
Zippers-This is the hardest part of the whole job. Once you get the above done, you will find the ends of the zipper tail which is about 3-4" long which is loose zipper tucked inside the seat. The zipper slides easily this first 3-4" of the tail but the problem starts at the actual bottom of the seat back where that area is not straight (kind of puckered) and where I ruined the zipper teeth. Once you get past this point, take needle nose like Tim stated and push on the zipper clasp up the seat to the top. Once you get past the problem area, the zipper clasp pushed easily all the way to the top.
In closing the zipper (going down), use 12-14 gauge electrical wire thru the loop of the zipper and slowly but steadily pull down. It may be nice to have another pair of hands pulling the material together as you pull the zipper down as to take some of the pressure off as it can pull hard.
Intake and exhaust snorkles-These 6MM torx screws are so tiny that you can easily strip the heads out if you don't pay attention even though I didn't have that problem. On the exhaust snorkle it is tricky to get one screw started in Tim's plastic manifold as it is down in a countersunk hole for better words. Shown in his instructions via a picture. Again as per Tim's instructions, start the screws in these plastic manifolds before trying to screw them on the seat coolers. Take your time to align the mounting holes up and tighten together as you could probably snap one of Tim's ears off in the tightening process.
Regarding cutting off the length of the blue tubes, it can easily be done with a single bladed razor blade it trims that easy. I cut mine off just above the J channels at the bottoms of the seat so it would close when done (intake side). On this intake side hose, you could probably cut a hole in the bottom of the seat back material and let the hose peek thru if so desired.
The tape Tim supplies to tape the hoses/tubes into his manifolds is the best tape I have seen in a while. The hoses twist inside of his manifolds and the tape is supplied just to hold them together just in case the hose would try to come out someday.
I would figure 1 hour per seat. If you can do it less time great, if it takes longer, no problem either. Hope this helps someone.
Tim's instructions are spot on. I did not take any pictures as he has already provided them.
Sadly I am not any better than some Ford tech's as I ruined the passenger side inside zipper even though Tim's instructions advised to take your time with them. I broke 2-3 teeth off the zipper and will let you know next week if a local upholstery shop can install a new zipper. The local Ford dealer quoted $200 for a new seat back cover-cover only.
FWIW, here are a few tips that I can give on the install:
Have good lighting. Need 6MM torx, needle nose pliers, 12-14 gauge electrical wire (1-2') , and a razor blade.
Your power seat is your friend so use it to put the seat in different positions so you can do the work in each step.
Before you can detach the bungy straps from the bottom of the seat, you have to release two wire plugs from the bottom of the seat by pulling down on them as the bungy straps attach above the wire plugs. As Tim stated, the wire plugs do not have to be pulled apart (unplugged).
J channels-they came apart and back together easier than expected. They are about 12-14" wide and run the width of the seat at the bottom that holds the lower back of the seat cover to the bottom. Just pull/squeeze the 2 materials together and twist the 2 J Channels a part from each other. I just started at one side. Basically the seat back cover and bottom of the cover has a plastic J on each end that holds the 2 sections of the materials together. Like Tim stated, hard to explain.
Zippers-This is the hardest part of the whole job. Once you get the above done, you will find the ends of the zipper tail which is about 3-4" long which is loose zipper tucked inside the seat. The zipper slides easily this first 3-4" of the tail but the problem starts at the actual bottom of the seat back where that area is not straight (kind of puckered) and where I ruined the zipper teeth. Once you get past this point, take needle nose like Tim stated and push on the zipper clasp up the seat to the top. Once you get past the problem area, the zipper clasp pushed easily all the way to the top.
In closing the zipper (going down), use 12-14 gauge electrical wire thru the loop of the zipper and slowly but steadily pull down. It may be nice to have another pair of hands pulling the material together as you pull the zipper down as to take some of the pressure off as it can pull hard.
Intake and exhaust snorkles-These 6MM torx screws are so tiny that you can easily strip the heads out if you don't pay attention even though I didn't have that problem. On the exhaust snorkle it is tricky to get one screw started in Tim's plastic manifold as it is down in a countersunk hole for better words. Shown in his instructions via a picture. Again as per Tim's instructions, start the screws in these plastic manifolds before trying to screw them on the seat coolers. Take your time to align the mounting holes up and tighten together as you could probably snap one of Tim's ears off in the tightening process.
Regarding cutting off the length of the blue tubes, it can easily be done with a single bladed razor blade it trims that easy. I cut mine off just above the J channels at the bottoms of the seat so it would close when done (intake side). On this intake side hose, you could probably cut a hole in the bottom of the seat back material and let the hose peek thru if so desired.
The tape Tim supplies to tape the hoses/tubes into his manifolds is the best tape I have seen in a while. The hoses twist inside of his manifolds and the tape is supplied just to hold them together just in case the hose would try to come out someday.
I would figure 1 hour per seat. If you can do it less time great, if it takes longer, no problem either. Hope this helps someone.
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