When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Console install with no Power or AC
If you decide you don't need console lighting or you also don't need the console AC to work, then the install should be incredibly simple and quick! However if you decide NOT to use the console AC then you might consider buying the rear console trim piece, it basically just replaces the rear panel so that you don't have any vents but still has the 12v port. That way nobody gets into your truck and complains that the backseat vents don't work.
I know you said no questions about part numbers but I can't find anything on this panel you speak of above (no A/C vent panel). Ive looked all over and all trucks with the center console have the rear vents so being that I can't find one without vents I can't get a VIN number to call Tasca to reference the part.
Sorry no pics, once you've seen one console, you've seen them all.
With everything fully functional. Rear AC
All power outlets
Sync and glove box lighting
In case anyone is wanting to do this swap....
Rear AC At first I was thinking I would have to cut the existing rear duct under the seats and tap into that.... DO NOT.Like an idiot I ended up cutting some carpet only to later find out the rear console duct already exists behind the dash.Someone told me that was the only way to get the console AC to work... Whoever that was, i hate you Anyways, this requires you to buy at least two new Ford parts both are ducts which connect to the existing AC outlet behind the radio. AC is already running to the rear seats by a duct that runs under the seats however there is another duct that is sealed off behind the radio, simply open it up and connect your new ducts parts there. It's a little tricky to get the console duct to align properly with your new extension parts but you'll eventually get it. I also recommend black duct tape because there is a slight air leak behind the dashboard and it creates a little bit of moisture even if you don't decide to hook up the new ducts. Also the new ducts might require some tape as well to prevent leaks because those things pretty much just sit inside of each other with no real support other than some foam inside.
Power Outlets and Lighting
To get all 3 power outlets to work you'll need to order at least one new part which is a connection harness, and that will have everything you'll need or at least it seems. In my case I had all the connections and all the 12v outlets worked except the interior lighting in the Sync door and the arm rest glove box. The new harness will connect to the same power source that the old harness from the jumper seat was connected. Even though I had all the connections those two plugs did not have any power going to them for some reason, maybe I purchased the wrong harness or my truck simply wasn't pre-wired for those connections so even with the new harness I was tapping into an unpowered source. So long story short I simply cut the wires coming from the micro switches that are attached to the bulbs and I tapped them into the 12v powered source. Anyways, it's not hard once you know what you're supposed to do. In your case maybe your harness will be fully powered and that last step might not be necessary. If you somehow short the connections you might blow a fuse which are not common cartridge fuses ($5 each) connected to the 12v lighter ports OR you might blow the the actual micro switch that activates the bulb when you open the door using a level switch, FORD does NOT sell these micro switches on their own so you'll have to buy a third party micro switch and retrofit it (don't ask me how I know).
Jump Seat Removal
You unbolt the center jump seat, I think it has 3 bolts, one of them was a little hard to get to but no big deal. Unplug it from the power source under the jump seat, make sure not to damage anything electrical because you will absolutely need it later... and you're done! At least with the removal.
Console Install
The installation of the console is not hard if you have all the necessary parts. And yes you do need new parts. At the very least 3 new parts. Considering you have a pre-assembled console otherwise good f'ing luck!
2 side trim pieces for vents 1 bottom dashboard trim cover
The two trims that need to be replaced are the ones covering the vents and any controls you have under your vents such as diff dial and backup trailer, in my case my XLT only has a coin holder and a power outlet so I just needed the most basic trim piece. So it's two trims, one for the left vent and one for the right vent. The third piece that need to be changed is a trim that goes under the climate controls and above the console, basically if you don't have this piece you'll see a huge empty gap between your console and your dash. I've seen one post where the guy decided to create his own trim piece and cut his own vent pieces, I don't recommend this but it's up to you. As far as price, you might end up spending up to $100-200 on all 3 pieces.
Console install with no Power or AC
If you decide you don't need console lighting or you also don't need the console AC to work, then the install should be incredibly simple and quick! However if you decide NOT to use the console AC then you might consider buying the rear console trim piece, it basically just replaces the rear panel so that you don't have any vents but still has the 12v port. That way nobody gets into your truck and complains that the backseat vents don't work.
Lastly...
I know, I know, some of you might have the urge to ask me for all the part numbers BUT! I think it might be better if I didn't because there are TONS of different truck configurations from features to colors and each configuration has a different part number so I don't want you guys to buy the wrong parts.
I'll be happy to answer any questions unrelated to part numbers
GBK, hopefully you're still monitoring this thread...
I have two questions about your conversion:
1. Did you install the console shifter when you did your console install? and
2. Concerning the A/C ducting, from reading your write-up (above,) it sounds like you didn't remove the old ducting that runs under the front seats, and just installed the new pieces to connect the ducting in your console. Did I read that correctly?
I just picked up a center console for my 2016 XLT. It came from a Lariat that had the ambient package.
I want to start gathering parts that I will need and I am looking at the power connections that are on the console I have. In the front part of the console there is a large rectangular plug and the USB plug.
There is also a plug on the passenger side of the console and I notice that my existing jump seat also has a plug back there in the same spot so that one is not an issue. The front one is going to be a little different I figure.
Is there a harness that will connect this plug to my existing harness?
Thanks
TC
I have the same issue. I installed a Lariat console into my XLT. Does anybody have an answer for this?
Sorry guys I don't visit the forums very often anymore and I'm probably gonna trade my truck in soon but I'll go ahead and answer your questions.
Btw, this thread is a little outdated, there's ways to make this upgrade 100% factory but that's for another day.
Originally Posted by -=TC=-
I just picked up a center console for my 2016 XLT. It came from a Lariat that had the ambient package.
I want to start gathering parts that I will need and I am looking at the power connections that are on the console I have. In the front part of the console there is a large rectangular plug and the USB plug.
There is also a plug on the passenger side of the console and I notice that my existing jump seat also has a plug back there in the same spot so that one is not an issue. The front one is going to be a little different I figure.
Is there a harness that will connect this plug to my existing harness?
Thanks
TC
I'm not completely sure but I believe that connector plugs into the dashboard harness that comes with the Lariat, or possibly even the dashboard harness within the XLT sport models with the shifter, but not exactly sure, or it could be a completely different connector I don't know of. Either way, non sport XLTs do not have the connecting plug as far as I know.
Originally Posted by Losrocket
I know you said no questions about part numbers but I can't find anything on this panel you speak of above (no A/C vent panel). Ive looked all over and all trucks with the center console have the rear vents so being that I can't find one without vents I can't get a VIN number to call Tasca to reference the part.
Yeah this was a long time ago but I could have sworn I saw a console model without rear vents, maybe it was a regular cab XL model since they don't have rear seats? I know some of them come with center consoles. Try looking for those, or maybe I imagined it who knows.
Originally Posted by Willybill32
GBK, hopefully you're still monitoring this thread...
I have two questions about your conversion:
1. Did you install the console shifter when you did your console install? and
2. Concerning the A/C ducting, from reading your write-up (above,) it sounds like you didn't remove the old ducting that runs under the front seats, and just installed the new pieces to connect the ducting in your console. Did I read that correctly?
1. No, however I did the console shift conversion later on after I gathered all the parts. Its a pain in the ***, I ended up having to buy all new parts than the ones that came with my console because they were not working properly and the wiring was not working properly either as it did for the other guy who came up with the idea. The best way to do it is to completely remove the dashboard panel and remove the XLT dash harness and replace it with the XLT Sport harness just for the console connector. The guys who took this route went ahead and upgrade their dash panel to the Lariat dash with the leather since they had to remove the entire thing anyways.
Originally Posted by Stangfreak1984
Sooo, did anyone ever find a answer for this? I have found many unanswered questions.
What would you like to know?
Originally Posted by Richard Mackert
Did you splice the lighting wire to the 12v cigarette lighters or s different power source? I’m curious to know if the lights stay on if that is done.
Yeah that's basically what I did but.... big mistake, the rear cig lighter on my truck stays on so the rear led bulb also stays on because there's no micro switch or actuator the way the sync door bulb turns on via micro switch. The only workaround is to add a micro switch somewhere, an on button, or a magnetic switch. I've tried using forscan to change the timer on my cig lighters to instantly turn on but it seems to not affect that particular 12v source. The sync door led is fine since it only turns on when the door is open.
Just wrapped up my install. Pics soon. The two ac parts were exactly what I needed for my '16 SCREW. I used a wood burning kit with the exacto blade knife. *USE A FAN* as there is melting plastic smoke. The cut out is clean and the volume of air to the rear seats is sufficient. The part that mates to the "cut out" has 2 mount points for the same 7mm screws used on top of the radio bezel.
I tried a dremel tool, and succeeded in taking a chunk of finger. 😜 use the hot knife....it works great. It took about 20 minutes to cut the port clean. Hope you are a contortionist.
05-10-2017, 11:54 PM
Anyways, this requires you to buy at least two new Ford parts both are ducts which connect to the existing AC outlet behind the radio. AC is already running to the rear seats by a duct that runs under the seats however there is another duct that is sealed off behind the radio, simply open it up and connect your new ducts parts there. It's a little tricky to get the console duct to align properly with your new extension parts but you'll eventually get it. I also recommend black duct tape because there is a slight air leak behind the dashboard and it creates a little bit of moisture even if you don't decide to hook up the new ducts. Also the new ducts might require some tape as well to prevent leaks because those things pretty much just sit inside of each other with no real support other than some foam inside.
