I’ve read of other people having that same problem. Instead of grinding on the cleats maybe just loosen the brackets first?

I put the cleats on the brackets before I mounted them.

 

That would work, but then you're committed to the cleats, without the ability to use another accessory.

I just had surgery on a broken ankle so I literally have nothing much to do other than scan, comment, and plan... This blows. I can't even hobble out to the truck for another 12 days.

 

My cleats were really hard to slide into the brackets, but it had nothing to do with my spray-in bedliner; the cleats had just enough material from casting that they needed a bit more trimming to fit. I've read of lots of people who had trouble getting the Ford cleats to fit the Boxlink plates. Just hit them with a small file and you're good to go.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I might find 16 of these screws? The ones that came with the set I bought were standard Torx head without the security pin in the head.
Most of the ones I've been able to find don't appear to be able to "thread form" as mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
Also hesitant to get any that might not stand up to the torque of forming the thread to begin with.

 

Mine aren’t security head either.

Fastenal or McMaster has just about any fastener know to man.

If you’re worried about breaking a screw like I was you can always tap the hole first and use red loctite.

 

Thanks, aquaman67! I found some bolts that appear to be the right size (6mm x 1.0 x 24mm. T-30 Torx head) but they don't look like they're the thread forming type:
https://www.belmetric.com/6mm-securi...31iii2iacdsrd2
Strangely couldn't find them at Fastenal so did a google on "anti-tamper hardware (M6x1 thread size) with security-drive Torx" and got a couple of hits from belmetric.
Will keep looking though, and post what I discover if anything new . . .
For reference, belmetric calls them "Metric Button Head Tamper Proof Bolt with Torx-30 Pin Drive", M6x1.00x25, M6X1X25, M6X25

 

OK, found a little less expensive non thread-forming anti-theft screws at Amazon: Since I haven't found the thread forming type yet, I'll simply use the non-security thread forming screws I have to form the threads and then use these anti-theft screws to actually fasten the plates to the bed. I really only need 8 of them, 1 in each diagonal corner to secure the plates with security screws, to ensure that the plates can't easily be removed without having a security bit at hand. The other two corners can use the plain torx screws to finish holding the plates in place. Since the package is 25 screws though, I'll likely use all anti-theft screws anyway.
I do see it common to refer to the plain T30 torx head screws as being anti-theft - I guess for most people that might be enough of a rarity to be considered tamper proof. Short of welding the plates to the truck bed, even the anti-theft screws are no guarantee (and even then, what's to stop a cordless cut off saw ? Karma?).

 

I figure I could offer a tip in case anyone ever wants to remove them. My 2016 had a BedRug that I wanted to remove and install on my 2019. The screws were extremely difficult to remove on the box cleats and tow hooks. I was able to remove a few but on most the torx heads started to round. The few I was able to remove were completely oxidized. I finally gave up and left the BedRug in the bed when I traded it in. Steel screws going into aluminum = dissimilar metals and corrosion. I'm an industrial electrician so I'm quite familiar with this from dealing with copper and aluminum. After a new BedRug was installed I removed each and every screw from the box cleats and tie down points. I made my own paste by mixing Noalox which is an anti-oxidant compound and Never-Seize. I put this on all the threads and reinstalled everything. My 2021 should be here by September and I plan on moving the BedRug to it now that I should be able to remove the bolts.

James

 

Thanks for the suggestion, kngelv! Along those lines, more as a remedial rather than preventative measure, may I suggest PB Blaster as one of the best penetrating oil/ rust busters out there. Found out about it from a friend who was an ASE mechanic and swore by the stuff himself. I think I'll try your combo sauce on the screws for installation. Putting in a DualLiner in the next day or two so glad to hear this in advance.